Hello!

[andybtsn]

Hiya, I'm Andy

Going to look at a Williams 3 tomorrow, usually a Polo G40 boy, but looking to change as I've always admire the Williams!

Can someone give me some info on what to look for when I look at the car tomorrow, it's rusting in places, mainly bootlid, anywhere else?

Also what are the main difference's between the number 3, 2 and one, I've as always heard the 1 and 2 is "where it's at"

Insurance is also very cheap for the Williams 3, I'm 21, with 1 year no claims, it's under £700!

Anyway, any help appreciated, and hope to get to know you all on the site.

Cheers!!

Andy

[Zollo]

Check for rust on the rear wheel arches, on the underside of the doors, on the tailgate drain bungs, and all over the underside of the car (such as the subframe).

Also check the steering for play (can be sorted with a 20 quid weld, but you could tell the owner it needs a new column at £160 ), recent cambelt change (ideally less than 30k miles, if not it'll need doing again shortly), a decent clutch and gearbox (no crunching on changes), whining PAS (they mostly all do it, but it's bargaining point), rough running (missing firing - common problem, not too costly to fix), the right finish on the wheels (polished outer rim, right shade of gold), erm, and plenty of other stuff!

Williams 1s and 2s are arguably better because they don't have sunroofs (which very commonly leak) and a few other toys which all add weight to the car. Also, 3s are a different shade of blue, so make sure it's the right colour! Difference between the 1 and 2 is the plaque is swapped for leccy mirrors and side impact bars in the 2, and also the 2 is based on the p2 Clio, so slightly more modern design.

Good luck!

[Jamie.]

williams 1 = plaque
williams 2 = no plaque, no abs, no sun roof
williams 3 = no plaque, although theyhave shite abs and leaky sunroof

rust, check the arches as they always go, check the sills. make sure it aint been crashed, check for differences in panel diameters on both sides of the car, have a good look to see if u can see prehaps where it has been sprayed in the past. places where do rust are like u say boot lip and below the wiper arm, dont worry about that tho as its an easy fix.

run it from cold and listen to how noisy the engine is, most will sound at least a little ruff when cold, also check for excess smoking when revved cold, bear in mind they will smoke a bit. let it heat up to 60 ish and make sure the engine runs smooth with no tappety noises now, and it shudnt smoke either. this is how my 3 runs anyway. the oil pressure from cold should be 5/6 bar on idle and 6 bar for a few minutes when driven. when hot mine will sit at 3bar at aprox 3.5k, when i boot it, it is 4 bar ish, what im saying is check that u have good oil pressure, sign of a healthy engine.

the gear boxes can go so make sure that each gear is selected properly and there is no crunch when changing etc. also boot it in each gear and check for excess moement from the gear stick, it should move a bit but not jump out of gear etc etc.

also check the coolant, should be clear or pink or blue, whatever shit they use, make sure it aint brown as that aint too good.

[Zollo]

Oh yeah, as Jamie says, the 3s have shitty ABS! :P

[Martin]

welcome..I was going post all of the above but could'nt be bothered so i waited for someelse to do it lol

[Scott-16v!]

Welcome, good luck with your search :D

[Gav]

welcome dood :D

[andybtsn]

Thanks for that!!

I don't suppose someone could tell me the group insurance number of the Williams 3?

It seems too cheap insurance wise

[Zollo]

I'm pretty sure all of them are Group 17 mate.

[arj256]

Welcome.
I thought they where group 16?