Suspect Mileage

[NickFr]

Following on from the mileage thread, some of you will have read that I believe my car has been clocked. I am taking it to have a service/ check up mainly to see if cam belt needs changing. I know this is a difficult question, but WHAT are the best ways if any of determining how many miles the car has done, where are the best places to check, I am pursuing via a solicitor but in the event of not getting anywhere it would be helpfull to know where mechanically I stand. Any tips PLEASE!!

If it helps I suspect it may have done 125,000+, what I don't understand is that the seats are not worn, pedals etc... and its not burning oil..

Many thanks GUYS

[KingStromba]

At the time of my rebuild mine had done 140,000 miles and their was minimal engine wear. No smoke, no oil usuage.

The clutch was also completely unworn (original clutch), and this is how i know it has not been driven hard and was looked after.

If the body is fairly tidy and you have no major problems then id say dont worry about it too much. There was a review by a guy on the net a while back and he had done 200,000 miles when he sold his and it was still going strong.

[NickFr]

Cheers, you know how to make a guy feel better, however should a grizzled old reno mechanic be able to tell much about the car, or is this practically impossible. I need some reassurances I guess feeling very low!!

Should I invest or get shot thats what I need to know

[KingStromba]

I would check:

Is the oil clean? If not change it asap. Does it stay clean after the change? Should be clear and stay clear. Check oil is at top mark on dip stick. To correctly check oil turn on engine for 5 mins from cold, then let it cool for 5 mins and then check it.

Is there any smoke on hard acceleration? If not is there any on a gear change? Should be none.

Does the car use alot of oil? 1 litre per 1000 miles is normal on most engines, unless its been bedded in very well when new.

Check the coolant expansion tank for rusty colour. If rusty get it flushed and changed.

Chech the oil filler cap. If there is a milky residue, you might need a new head gasket. Mine was begining to go at 140,000. But it might be ok.

Is there oil coming from around the top of the engine around the rocker cover (top slice of engine). If so the rocker cover gasket may need replacing (very easy and cheap job).

Get the spark plugs, coil lead and ignition leads checked. Oil around the spark plugs is normal if you have a leaky rocker cover (see point above).

Does the clutch slip? Put it in 4th with the handrake on. Pull away. It should stall straight away. Youll feel the clutch slipping if its worn.

Chech the shocks for rust. Front and back.

Check the front springs for damage.

Grab the wheel horizontally 3 and 9 oclock like holding a steering wheel infront of you and wobble the wheel. If movement get inner track rods checked and track rod ends.

Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o clock and wobble it again. If movement its a wheel bearing.

Check tyres for uneven wear. Wear on the inside or outside of front tyre can be tracking / alignment probs or broken suspension component.

Check brake disks and pads for wear. Worn disks develop a lip to them (a rim round the circumferance of the disc) which you can feel with your finger.

Get the engine on and put the front wheels on the grass. Now put your hand on the front wheel and reach through to the steering wheel. Turn the steering wheel and feel if there is a delay until the front wheels turn. There should be no delay. If there is may be column or rack problem. Generally the steering should have no looseness in it. As soon as it turns the front wheels turn.

Check the power steering fluid level

Get a mechanic to check:

Drive shafts and drive shaft rubber boot for oil leak
Dog bone and other engine mounts
Subframe for damage
Insepct spark plugs / compression test / electrics test / other diagnostics
Calipers
Bushes
Shocks
Coolant system for leaks



If the car feels fast, reliable (ie drives well in the wet and cold) and revs smoothly, and none of the above are a problem, i wouldnt worry. Get a good mechanic with experience of Renaults to check it over. :D For piece of mind.

[NickFr]

Thanks KS, for taking the time and trouble to give me this info, it is much appreciated!! I believe that despite everything the car appears to run well, although having no direct comparison this is pure speculation.

I will keep you informed of the outcome, it is being serviced on Weds this week. Once again thank you for your help, you are a credit to this forum!! :D

Oh good luck with your forthcoming respray

[MatBrown]

About the cambelt, if your not sure when it was changed, get it done!



Mat.

[dannyt]

yer very true matt you don't want that snapping, I change mine on every car i get, that way it ensures peice of mind!

KS - i think all that needs to be posted as a sticky, you told me somethings i never knew and think there's some good info there!

Gonna do the power steering one when i've got time, on the grass!!!lol

Danny

[dannyt]

Also what does it mean if your engine oil gets dirty when changing it?

i change it every 4k and it doesn't look anywhere near as clean as when it went in?

[KingStromba]

Well there is a differnce between the oil getting durty and 'getting dirty'

All oil will degrade as the chemical molecules break down due to constantly heating up and cooling down. Basically as the chemical structure breaks down the oil goes darker and picks up debris from the engine (bits float in it). Because getting darker is a sign that the oil is losing its chemical structure, its an indication that is losing its ability to protect the engine (structure / function relationship). Usually the better quality the oil the longer it will go before it gets darker ie the more resistant it is to degredation.

Getting dark isnt in itself a bad thing. Its when it gets dirty and has alot of particles in solution that its bad.

Oil getting dirty quickly can be an indication that the engine is running to hot and the oil is degrading too quickly.

[2 live]

surprised stromba never added these tho tbh....

check the pedal rubbers, gear knob and steering wheel..........bald pedal rubbers indicate high mileage.as would new pedal rubbers to me, shiny steering wheel on the outer bit is another tell tale sign of high mileage....the no.s on my gear knob were still visible at 75000 miles...but if u drive with ur hand on the gearstick, i would say these would wear sooner


other than these an strombas id say theres no way u can tell exactly wot mileage the car has done......if serviced well an engine could have 3 times more miles than a non serviced one and still have the same wear......