Megane engine.

[Ant-Williams]

Looking to rebuild and upgrade the Willy engine in the future or rebuild another engine on the side and then just switch them. Have bein told that the megane F7R lumps are betterand stronger to use, is this true and why and is a rebuild something that could be done DIY or should i get it done professionally.

Pretty confident with a tool kit just unsure on timing an engine up as never done it and things like that or is it pretty straight forward and just common sense mostly with the help of a manual???

[MAXIBOY]

megane crank might be a little better but not significantly..

better head design if your running throttle bodies...

if not nothing in it really...

can be done as a diy rebuild but needs the machining done professionally

other things can be looked up or asked on here..

[Ant-Williams]

Cheers for the quick reply, would consider bodies in the future if funds allowed but not sure on that 1. Want to get some headwork done and cams dropped in while rebuilding and then mapped to suit and then jst replace everything i can so its as fresh and reliable as possible lol!

Is it worth gettin a megane lump or should i just stay with the willy engine.

Also would it require forged rods for running with cams or are std adequate with ARP bolts. Also would high comp pistons do alot with cams and headwork or are they only required with bodies?

Cheers Ant

[MAXIBOY]

stay with the willy lump..

doesn't need rods really..

high compression pistons add about 5% across the entire range..

rods are better when upping the rev range and wilder cams...really..

[16v_paddy]

Might as well get it done by a pro, I got quoted £150 for a re-bore, crank polish and the bottom end rebuilt with parts I provided. You'd only want forged rods if you want to go with some high revving fun

If you do want a megane lump I'm selling mine I've also got all the parts - gaskets, bearings etc to rebuild it and some forged con rods with ARP bolts

[Ant-Williams]

hmmmm interesting! How much would you be after for everything and is it a full megane lump or just bottom end? Does it come with box, loom and everything?

If rebuilding it with cams and everything it would be rude not to up the rev limit a little so may consider rods. Are the standard pistons fine or would it be best to do the whole lot? Spose it would then be ready for any future mods i.e. Bodies

Cheers Ant

[stan]

Depends ont he cams you are using, and the valve-train gera being used.

If its all std (which it will be unless you are spending about £800 on solid followers and uprated springs&retainers), then you are limited to circa 8000rpm. If on the std inlet, this is a definate.

This means the std rods are pretty usable, THOUGH on customer rebuilds I often advise to fit Hsection rods based on the logic that if you are spending a few thousand on an engine build, you may aswell spend another £600 on rods, so you know the bottom end is solid, no matter what. Inavatibly you will want more power. Once the bottom end is sorted ,this will be based on the cam and intake configuration...so these mods can be easily applied without worrying "will the rods be alright".

Forged pistons are highly recomended.

If you want any prices for parts, email me at info@ap-developments.com

Craig

[16v_paddy]

^^^this is the man to speak to

I've got a complete meggy lump, no loom or gearbox though :( got the ecu but thats probably not much good to you if you're going the ITB route
I've stripped the engine down to get the bore & crank measured up and bought all the necessary bits to rebuild it from stan

drop me a PM & I'll have a chat later

[white16valver]

Might as well get it done by a pro, I got quoted £150 for a re-bore, crank polish and the bottom end rebuilt with parts I provided.

Seriously??

Isn't that like ridiculously cheap??

In theory you could pick up a shitter with a slightly suspect engine for pennies, get the engine out, get the head off, get the bottom end rebuilt for £150 then just whack a good head on it, perhaps off the valver engine I'd be swapping it out for!

And given that I'd be game for just sticking the top end on, I can't see it'd be that difficult?!

[16v_paddy]

It's only labour charge at the end of the day, it's the parts that are expensive

The problem with buying a shitter is you wont know what needs doing to rebuild it until you strip it down & get everything measured up & checked for tolerances.

The guy who quoted me that said it would take just over an hour to put all the bits in the bottom end & have it built up - after the machining was done, which is charged a a flat rate pretty much