Engine run-in

[robi1000]

I've just rebuilt my engine. What kind of run-in should I do to prevent cylinder glazing? What oil should I use? Mineral? For how long should I run mineral oil? I was thinking about using mineral for 500-800km, then drain it and put in Elf Competition STI 10W-40 for about 2000-3000km and then go on full synthetic ELF EXCELLIUM NF.

So that you know I've replaced piston rings, bearings, polished and balanced crankshaft, new pumps, new belts, ported head, lots of other stuff... You get the picture. :D

[number1]

i was told by an engine tuner to run a good quality oil and dont change it straight away, as when the oils dirty it will be carrying little particles in it around and will act as a slight abrasive, but not enough to damage new shells journals etc, if you keep changing the oil every 500 miles for the first few times the oil wont be "cleaning" the engine and will glaze the bores up quickly

A dirty oil is/has done its job

PM Oilman im sure he will know what oil to put in

[davem]

a good quality 10w 40 mineral or semi synthetic for approx 1000 miles, keep the engine below 3000 rpm fro first 250 miles or so. Then take it easy building up the revs (4000 limit for 250 miles, then 5000 limit for 250 miles etc) bit by bit and not allowing to idle for long amounts of time or using the engine to brake with. After the 1000 miles change oil and filter and put in whatever oil you plan to continue using 10 40 is about right and a semi synthetic will do. Change again at 5000 miles and engine should be good for a long while to come.
This is the run in procedure i have always used and it has never gone wrong!

[robi1000]

Another question. A lot of diffrent people say a lot of different things about this. Should I leave it idle for about half an hour and then go for a drive, or should I go for a drive straight away?

[number1]

Drive it straight away but dont use full throttle for a good few miles and build the revs slowly using a bit more revs and a bit more as the miles roll on
Dont hold it under load for more than 5-10 seconds

[DaveH]

Another question. A lot of diffrent people say a lot of different things about this. Should I leave it idle for about half an hour and then go for a drive, or should I go for a drive straight away?

If it has had a full rebuild cylinder head as well and the top end has been dry (of oil) in the hydraulics etc i wouldnt drive it straight away, leave it to idle until it quietens down a fair bit as itl rattle a lot and you dont want to put any strain on the components before theyre fully lubricated/warmed up after rebuild. Then do as stated earlier when driving!

[MAXIBOY]

has it had cams or followers fitted mate

[robi1000]

Unfortunatlly not. :(

Yet.

[robi1000]

I should also mention that at the moment the only part of exhaust system fitted to the car is exhaust manifold. Therefore my lambda isn't connected. So every now and then a loud BANG! coms out of it. Is this because without lambda, car is overfueling and excessive fuel is burning in the exhaust manifold?

[MAXIBOY]

then its ok to let it idle...when you drive it run it up to around 3000rpm and then use engine braking as this forces the ring on to the bores and helps the rings bed in quicker. i run mine in for a 500 miles then trash it..