Finding parts for my Williams 3

[bruny06]

Hi all,

Can someone either tell me the original Williams 3 Part Numbers for the driveshafts, for both sides, and tie rods (full assembly), again, for both sides? I've been posting on the Facebook group, lately. My Williams 3 has a bit of damage to the subframe, and the track doesn't look right. One wheel sticks out more than the other. I put the car on ramps, earlier today, and found that the Track Control Arms are the correct Williams ones, and the same on each side. Also, the shocks are pretty much new, and the original Williams ones, and again, the same on each side, so, something else is going on. I'll be very thankful for any help you guys can give me.

Thanks,
Bruno

[ianbirch]

Hi Bruno... I've read through your FB post and I thought you had tracked it down to a bent subframe... the only other thing i can think of is a bent chassis.

This Forum is linked to this FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/19431546816/?fref=nf not the one you've posted in.... though to be fair most of the knowledgeable guys are on both.

Lee Seward may be able to help you with further solutions.

Post the same query on the above page and he will probably see it.

Regards Ian

[bruny06]

Hi Bruno... I've read through your FB post and I thought you had tracked it down to a bent subframe... the only other thing i can think of is a bent chassis.

This Forum is linked to this FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/19431546816/?fref=nf not the one you've posted in.... though to be fair most of the knowledgeable guys are on both.

Lee Seward may be able to help you with further solutions.

Post the same query on the above page and he will probably see it.

Regards Ian

Thanks for your reply. Sorry for all those posts, but I kinda needed some enlightening. Like I said, I've put the car on ramps and had a proper look underneath. The subframe has some damage. At the front, it has a couple of small dents, nothing major, that could have been from anything, such as going over something that hit it. If you have seen the video I posted, you can see that the subframe does look a little different on the left side, however, it really doesn't seem like it would be a problem, at least for the track being...off. I could be completely wrong, and I thought about going through the massive pain in the ass of taking the subframe off, to see how it looks out of the car. The Tie Rods need replacing, anyway, and I'm also quite happy replacing the driveshafts, as well. But yeah, as for the track being off, I still have no clue why that is, but I just don't believe it's the subframe, from what I can see. I'm no expert, though, and I could be wrong.

[16v_paddy]

Lee Seward may be able to help you with further solutions.



Oh hai! :bananawave:

Didn't spot the fb post tbh :thinking:

Need a better description of what you mean by the wheel sticking out more, have you got a printout from having wheel alignment done? That will give a proper idea of exactly what bit is out of whack.

Although sounding a bit daft, just check that all of your wheels are genuine Williams ones, the Prima replicas are half an inch narrower so that could be a contributing factor

[bruny06]

Oh hai! :bananawave:

Didn't spot the fb post tbh :thinking:

Need a better description of what you mean by the wheel sticking out more, have you got a printout from having wheel alignment done? That will give a proper idea of exactly what bit is out of whack.

Although sounding a bit daft, just check that all of your wheels are genuine Williams ones, the Prima replicas are half an inch narrower so that could be a contributing factor

I don't believe they are replicas. They've got the Renault logo, and Renault PN. Not sure if they could still be a copy, though. Either way, when both wheels were out the car, they looked identical. I didn't take the car to an alignment, yet, as I wanted to change at least the tie rods, first. I've added these ones to my basket https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mapco/2031550. Not sure if they're the correct ones, though, as I suppose the Williams ones will be longer?

[ianbirch]

Here you go Lee.. this is Bruno's problem.

9688

Regards Ian

[bruny06]

Here you go Lee.. this is Bruno's problem.

9688

Regards Ian


Thanks for posting that. I probably should have thought of that. It also seems like the front-left wheel (picture on the right), has noticeable positive camber.

[16v_paddy]

I don't believe they are replicas. They've got the Renault logo, and Renault PN. Not sure if they could still be a copy, though. Either way, when both wheels were out the car, they looked identical. I didn't take the car to an alignment, yet, as I wanted to change at least the tie rods, first. I've added these ones to my basket https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mapco/2031550. Not sure if they're the correct ones, though, as I suppose the Williams ones will be longer?

If they've got the markings they're deffo genuines so it rules that possibility out

Those tie rods in your basket are spot on, the Williams uses the same ones as the early 1.8 16v which confuses the compatibility listings on parts websites

The positive camber suggests there's something bent to me as the only way that can happen with incorrect parts is if you fitted a 1.8 wishbone onto the car with Williams shocks and it's clearly obvious you haven't done that as there's no way to attach the ARB onto those :lol:
It's also clear that the shocks are right because if you'd fitted Valver fitment ones you'd have a lot of negative camber.

That camber you've got will be from the top of the hub being pushed out or the bottom of the hub being pulled in and there's a fair few different possible causes for it - bent wishbones, bent subframe, bent shocks or even bent hub(s) - so it'll be a process of elimination unfortunately

I'd start by swapping the shocks to the opposite side, if it's still the same you know they're fine. After that it's going to be a case of throwing time, money & parts at the problem until you find the cause.
The ideal way of doing this will be borrowing a Williams you know is fine and swapping parts from it 1 at a time and seeing if that solves the issue, if the issue stays the same with the replaced part you'll at least know that the 1 you've got is fine

[bruny06]

If they've got the markings they're deffo genuines so it rules that possibility out

Those tie rods in your basket are spot on, the Williams uses the same ones as the early 1.8 16v which confuses the compatibility listings on parts websites

The positive camber suggests there's something bent to me as the only way that can happen with incorrect parts is if you fitted a 1.8 wishbone onto the car with Williams shocks and it's clearly obvious you haven't done that as there's no way to attach the ARB onto those :lol:
It's also clear that the shocks are right because if you'd fitted Valver fitment ones you'd have a lot of negative camber.

That camber you've got will be from the top of the hub being pushed out or the bottom of the hub being pulled in and there's a fair few different possible causes for it - bent wishbones, bent subframe, bent shocks or even bent hub(s) - so it'll be a process of elimination unfortunately

I'd start by swapping the shocks to the opposite side, if it's still the same you know they're fine. After that it's going to be a case of throwing time, money & parts at the problem until you find the cause.
The ideal way of doing this will be borrowing a Williams you know is fine and swapping parts from it 1 at a time and seeing if that solves the issue, if the issue stays the same with the replaced part you'll at least know that the 1 you've got is fine

Thanks a lot for your reply. Very useful information, there. I've ordered the Track Rod set, two Brake Calipers, as refurbishing the old ones is simply not worth it (they're old and rusty), two Front Wheel Hubs, two Wheel Bearings, and two Joint Ends (?) for the Drive Shafts. I ordered from AutoDoc, and in my experience with them, it will take ages for the parts to arrive, but once they do, I'll get my hands dirty.

I also own a Mk1 1.2 Clio Ph3, that I did a little work on, such as replacing the pads and disks, rad fan, etc...but this Williams is definitely a learning experience for me.

Again, thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with me.


Bruno.

[16v_paddy]

If you can, cancel the wheel bearings unless they're made by SKF, from bitter experience I can tell you that any other make simply don't last so aren't worth bothering with.

Another issue you might find with the bearings is that these Clios use 2 different sizes so there's a 50/50 chance they'll be the wrong size for the hubs/stubs you've got so you need to measure how big the hole is on the stub and compare with the outside diameter of the bearing

Also, when you say you've ordered hubs, which bit have you actually bought? The part the wheel & disc bolt to or the complete assembly that attaches to the shocks? Only ask as it's important to be pedantic about this bit (even though I have technically been using the incorrect names) just so you don't waste any time & money on it.

The hub & bearings are pressed into the stub axle, see the pic, it's possible that your stub axle is bent so I'd advise not fitting the hub & bearing into that until you're 100% sure it's fine & not the cause of the problem

9689

[bruny06]

If you can, cancel the wheel bearings unless they're made by SKF, from bitter experience I can tell you that any other make simply don't last so aren't worth bothering with.

Another issue you might find with the bearings is that these Clios use 2 different sizes so there's a 50/50 chance they'll be the wrong size for the hubs/stubs you've got so you need to measure how big the hole is on the stub and compare with the outside diameter of the bearing

Also, when you say you've ordered hubs, which bit have you actually bought? The part the wheel & disc bolt to or the complete assembly that attaches to the shocks? Only ask as it's important to be pedantic about this bit (even though I have technically been using the incorrect names) just so you don't waste any time & money on it.

The hub & bearings are pressed into the stub axle, see the pic, it's possible that your stub axle is bent so I'd advise not fitting the hub & bearing into that until you're 100% sure it's fine & not the cause of the problem

9689

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’ve bought this (see picture), and some other bits.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201209/5cfb10e404db413107e48af445a74207.jpg

It says my order is being picked, so, I hope it’s not too late to change the bearings.


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[bruny06]

Also, what’s that software? I’d love to have it, if it’s not licensed to a company, or something. It seems quite useful.


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[bruny06]

Are these the ones?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201209/2b22043006b705e3fc0a7363f3a1d99e.jpg


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[Sean]

What he's using is Dialogys software from Renault, but you can get the same info online at www.catcar.info. A link to the equivalent page is here:
http://www.catcar.info/renault/?lang=en&l=c3Q9PTUwfHxzdHM9PXsiMTAiOiJNb2RlbCIsIjIwIjoiQ2xp byAocGhhc2UgMSAmIDIpIiwiMzAiOiJDNTdNIiwiNDAiOiJNYW 51YWwiLCI1MCI6IjMxIEZyb250IGJlYXJpbmcgZWxlbWVudHMg XC8gU3R1YiBheGxlIC0gZGlzayJ9fHxub3Bycz09MTI2MCIsIj EyNjJ8fGJyYW5kPT1SZW5hdWx0fHxub3ByPT0xMjYyfHx0eXBl PT1DNTdNfHxjYXRfaWQ9PU18fGltZz09fHxncnBfaWQ9PTMxfH xzdWJHcnBfaWQ9PTMxQg%3D%3D
Regards, Sean

[16v_paddy]

Are these the ones?


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Yes, just measure the stubs on your car to make sure they match