View Full Version : 30A fuse popping
Hi guys,
I've had this problem intermittently for a while but recently it's come to a head. I keep popping fuse after fuse (30amp) which covers the immobiliser. I would imagine it also covers something else to seeing as its a 30Amp. Could anyone else tell me what it is so that I can start hunting for a dodgy connection please.
Thank you!
fabulicious
15-05-2012, 15:28
hhmm..leccie problems pain in the butt!
30 amp fuse under the glovebox right? Could be an earth wire or dodgy relay. I havent a clue of the layout of the wiring internally but it's possible the immobiliser itself is fubar or if something is connected to it as you say is wonky. I'm only guessing here.
Mostly with leccie problems it's a case of trial and error. You need to find out what else is connected to that fuse if any and start unplugging till you find the source of the problem.
Is it the standard immobiliser? Run the car without the immobiliser for a while by unplugging it from under the dash and see how you get on. Wires from the immobliser may lead to the ignition coil and therefore you will need to bridge the wires for the coil to start the car again.
I know after I did some work on my own car the immobliser kinda gave up and I just threw it out.
Far as I know only 30A Fuses are,
passenger fusebox :
F1 window right. F3 window left. F6 Accessories cut off master.
Engine fusebox :
F6 engine functions. (F15 Air Con)
Thanks guys.
It's the 30Amp in the engine fusebox.
fabulicious
15-05-2012, 23:30
Thanks guys.
It's the 30Amp in the engine fusebox.
Is it dry in there?
MatBrown
15-05-2012, 23:53
Check the loom hasn't rubbed through on the bodywork, usually just behind the passenger headlight.
Think its dry in the fuse box but will double check. It's been in my garage for a couple of days too so will see if any residual moisture that might be there dries up.
I'll take a look at the loom behind the passenger headlight.
This is a bit of a needle in a haystack momet. I hate intermittent electrical problems, especially when like this they develop into permanent (till I fix it) problems!!
It'll be something really easy. Check all bulbs are working correctly. Sometimes the plugs for the lights corrode or get water in. I was blowing fuses because a plug for the rear light cluster had collapsed/corroded and it was shorting out.
OK, update:
The only thing I can find not working is the driver's side fog light. I will of course get a bulb asap.
I also found a couple of cables connectors that I'm hoping someone can identify.
The first picture is of the big multipin connector which I found hanging down in the battery/original airbox location. It isn't connected to anything, I have no idea if or what it should be connected to, and it looks very corroded like it hasn't been connected to anything for sometime ie before I had the problem.
The second mystery cable is in picture 2. It is hanging down in the driver's side wheel arch- possibly related to fog light???
Apparently Ive reached my maximum upload quota for images! please see the following links for the piccys:
Picture1
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii8/radicalbee/Untitled.jpg
Picture2
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii8/radicalbee/Untitled-1.jpg[/url]
In picture 2 it is the skinny cable that I am referring to which you can see is cut/broken at the top.
Picture 2:
I would say that's the low level brake pad warning wire.
It should be connected to the front pads.
Makes sense! Not sure if this would cause a trip on this fuse.
Do you still have the original alarm on the car???
Don't think so. If I do it doesn't function. I vaguely remember looking for the switch before which I read was under the glove box area I think..
Thats the valet switch - nothing at all to do with fuse
So your alarm doesn't work - or it's not got one?
as far as I know its not got one
MatBrown
16-05-2012, 23:01
.
I'll take a look at the loom behind the passenger headlight.
Check it all, that's just the most common place.
Will do mate, thanks again. I'll report back!
fabulicious
17-05-2012, 09:20
Picture 2 looks like a dianostic socket..if I'm not mistaken some models had the socket located in the engine bay also.
fabulicious
17-05-2012, 10:39
where are my friggin eyes! Picture 1 :lol:
Another thing that loom looks like a Phase 1 loom. Mat will know better but didnt all the phase 2's have the green connector for the negative?
My Less Than Concours Project Continues.. Where are those photos??
Right, had a looke over e loom near the passenger side headlight. Can't see anything obvious. So now I guess its a case of using a voltmeter thingy. I've got one now and don't have a clue. Presumably as it was a bit intermittent before I should use the continuity function?
Btw I have no idea what I'm doing with a voltmeter. Should I just put both the probes on my ears and luck the battery?
That would be 'lick' the battery... Wish me 'luck'
This is really frustrating me now, almost two weeks and I havent been able to drive the Williams!
I've managed to work out how to test the continuity now. I am getting a noise when i touch the negative battery terminal and the 30A fuse in question. Does this mean that it is an earth problem. I have no idea what to do next :cry:
Update!
I had a guy come round and have a look at the mystery fuse popping Williams yesterday. He reckons its the after-market immobiliser causing me all this ball ache. He recommended replacing or removing it. He said it would take a couple of hours and cost me £180, plus i'd have get it towed to his workshop which would be another £40 or so. Since then I've managed to find another mobile auto electrician who is prepared to do the work at my house for £110 all in which I thought was OK, seeing as autoelctricians tend to be fairly expensive anyway. Hopefully the first guys diagnosis proves to be correct and it will just be a case of removing the immobiliser and bridging it. I understand that there is a factory immobiliser fitted to Williams' via the key anyway, so not really bothered about losing the after-market one.
Being an immobiliser it is hidden away deep behind the dash, which will have to be removed, the wires/immobiliser tended too before putting it all back together.
He's coming tomorrow, so I've got my fingers crossed that I'll be getting the back-end out on some twisty B-roads after lunch time. I will of course give an (hopefully successful and final) update soon.
If it is noted on your insurance and is a Thatcham one, remember to let them know, otherwise your policy could be invalidated.
Good luck!
If it is noted on your insurance and is a Thatcham one, remember to let them know, otherwise your policy could be invalidated.
Good luck!
Fair point mate, cheers.
So the guy came round today and removed the after-market immobiliser... Bugger!..no fixy!
Then he unplugged all the connectors in the wiring loom near the passenger side headlight, put a new fuse in and bingo, she fires into life. I pay him £110 and say goodbye.
Then I head off for a little drive just to make sure, after 10 metres it pops the fuse again. I go back, bugger about with the loom again, spray a load of WD40 in, new fuse, 10 metres..pop! and so on and so on...
Do I presume that the fault is in these loom connectors behind the passenger headlight, as commonly warned of by some of you in this thread? If so do I just pull out each individual wire out of the connectors and check the connections etc? Do they literally just pull out?
Thanks in anticipation.. I'm this close to binning this car, as nice as it is when it works!
Finally fixed!!
Turns out it was an ECU wire and an oxygen sensor wire. Now she's running like she should again and no longer eating fuses!
Just went for a quick blast to the shops.
Sorry for the poor quality and length but here's a quick clippy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM2dmFnaigA
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