turbo conversion question

[willy_kev]

just a few questions really, like what can the standard internals of a williams handle power wise? and how much would a turbo conversion cost? is the t28 the best way to go? and is a lsd on the market ? because thats alot of power through the front wheels?

cheers

Kev

[MAXIBOY]

hiya

internals so far crank 500bhp
rods 300bhp but not high revs
pistons not so much power but because of compression 220bhp ish

gripper and a few others do l.s.d,s but box is the weaker point still

cost depends on what you do where you buy the parts etc

drive in out conversion all new parts 6000 quid
do it yourself around half of that

plus brakes suspension tyres gearbox lsd if you want it..

[tutuur]

If you want just a bit more power like 220hp

Then you have the possibility to skim the pistons 1mm for lower cr, you'll be able to put 8psi in it.

That way the gearbox stays allive and it can be done on a budget. Use the t28 from a 200sx and intercooler+piping need to be sorted out.

Injectors from 21 turbo, map sensor too and kj16v or fastchip for the custom map...

Oh, don't forget the clutch :lol:

[diditno]

simple answer buy mine. ive thrown thousands at it and still not finished it. mine runs currently 235 bhp with 260flb. has a decent clutch recently which has made it a lot better. more boost and more mapping is needed as its only on 13 psi i think.

mine has forged internals and a t28, standalone omex management etc. it has been a pain in the arse tbh. I would never do it again. id only think about it if you have a second car to use while yours is off the road.

[Wobba]

simple answer buy mine. ive thrown thousands at it and still not finished it. mine runs currently 235 bhp with 260flb. has a decent clutch recently which has made it a lot better. more boost and more mapping is needed as its only on 13 psi i think.

mine has forged internals and a t28, standalone omex management etc. it has been a pain in the arse tbh. I would never do it again. id only think about it if you have a second car to use while yours is off the road.

Pics, spec & price?

[dhay14]

ive got 242 hp and 325Nm of torque running 10 psi of my F7R

forged pistons, std rods and a GT2860Rs on std ecu with a fresh rr map from fastchip. i would deff do it again but then with some forged rods.

[diditno]

simple answer buy mine. ive thrown thousands at it and still not finished it. mine runs currently 235 bhp with 260flb. has a decent clutch recently which has made it a lot better. more boost and more mapping is needed as its only on 13 psi i think.

mine has forged internals and a t28, standalone omex management etc. it has been a pain in the arse tbh. I would never do it again. id only think about it if you have a second car to use while yours is off the road.

Pics, spec & price?

have a look

http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41800&highlight=

has foged internals, t28 turbo. chargecooler. custom down pipe and exhaust. uprated brakes. and lots and lots of other stuff. currently 235bhp and 260flb. but will easdily take a lot more. I need at least 5k for it. needs a couple of bits done ie new tappets fitting and a last tweak on the remap and a repaint. but thats me being picky.

[-jo-]

ive got 242 hp and 325Nm of torque running 10 psi of my F7R


whp ! Bit diff. :lol:

Ive got a std balanced crank with ACL's, modified williams flywheel with Tilton single plate clutch (550 Nm rated), wossner rods, ARP's, wiseco pistons 8.5:1 cr, modified valver head, megane 2.0 cams, verniers and GT28RS (.86 exh, .60 compressor), fmic from GRS (escort RS turbo), 803's (21 europacup, porsche 944 turbo, cossie greens), 250 kpa magnetti mapsensor (max 1.5 bar boost) and the rest off the list aint important. Std managment that gets the live map in october.

[willy_kev]

If you want just a bit more power like 220hp

Then you have the possibility to skim the pistons 1mm for lower cr, you'll be able to put 8psi in it.

That way the gearbox stays allive and it can be done on a budget. Use the t28 from a 200sx and intercooler+piping need to be sorted out.

Injectors from 21 turbo, map sensor too and kj16v or fastchip for the custom map...

Oh, don't forget the clutch :lol:

This would be the starting option im interested in i think... sorry to bump this thread but im revisiting the idea of a turbo conversion. Is there anyone on here that can advise me on parts and carry out the work? earn yourself a few quid in the process ??

[TJ Dizzy]

I was going to ask the same today on this thread but forgot lol would be handy to have a list breakdown of parts needed, Where to get them from , ect, as i was looking on k-tec then looking on ebay finding the same thing for half the price lol

ATB
TJ

[tutuur]

I'm currently busy building my own low-boost conversion with skimmed pistons and just a light revised engine(bearings&seals).

Uses the t28 of a s14 and 803 injectors.
Ofcourse the rest needed is also done!

Hope to have it mapped in march, when i do i'll post the graph!
Expecting between 220-240 flywheel hp on 7/8psi :)

[Coops]

if your on a budget your best off trawling RTOC, here and C16V for parts as theres almost always a project being given up and broken for parts.

main ones to get hold of to do it on a budget are (all prices are second hand guestimates):

- log manifold £50
- downpipe £100
- second hand turbo £200
- Renault 21 turbo injectors £50
- Renault 21 Turbo map sensor £10
- BBPT/Fastchips chipped ECU with low boost chip £100
- some kind of intercooling or chargecooling circuit £200
- one way valve for brake system (get off any turbo car from scrappers) £1

thats in theory all you need for low boost, around 9psi max, it will run that on stock lump, std compression and should be reliable enough.

on a side note, if your engine is old and tired it would be worth a rebuild, and then if engines in bits......well be rude not to drop compression and go for it wouldnt it now.....which is where it gets expensive

to go for more boost is when it gets expensive as drivetrain (clutch/box, etc) will need attention, as will fuelling and mapping, and probably suspension and brakes to cope with the power. oil cooler would be wise at this stage as well, not to mention engine internals and any method of keeping an eye on things, air intake temp sensors/AFR/Boost gauge, etc etc

for sourcing those parts spec what you want by researching on the forums, theres literally hundreds of project threads and tech support on turbo clio builds across the 3 boards i've mentioned. then crack out google and research your best prices if you want to buy new. i've sourced parts from all over the place, not one specific retailer, and its worked out better value for money just spending few hours looking for what you want at the right price.

basically, if your signing up to boost a clio, don't for one minute think you'll do it on a budget, spend a grand and that'll be it done. it WILL cost more, it WILL go wrong and you will spend ALOT of money in the end revising and improving. speak to any of us who have done it, had one, got one, etc. we all started off with a car and a budget and x years down the line we're all still here with our cars in bits and with another winter rebuild/project on our hands and costs spiralling once again. so its not a conversion to be taken lightly.

that said, i dont regret one penny i've spent on mine, eveything its done to let me down has been more than made up for in the giggles i've had since that fateful day in March 2007 when i bought the damn thing :-)

and for info, mines currently an F7P low comp, 16psi, build pumping out 285bhp and 260lbft last rolling road and cranked out a 12.3@117mph 1/4 mile this season on road tyres........so when its working its more than quick ;-)

hope this rambling info is of some use, i will try to help out anyone thinking of going similar route as best i can as you see a lot of people sign up for boost and quit at the first big blow up/issue thinking 'dammit my budgets blown'

cheers

Ben

[tutuur]

Sounds very promising Ben! But i can't find a for sale section on RTOC and my account on c16v doesn't work :roll:

Do you know anyone who sells his manifold? I now have a welded log style but i would rather have a cast one!

[TJ Dizzy]

cheers Ben thankyou for taking the time out and exsplaining everything for us turbo wana bees lol It was an intresting read, :D in your opinion would there be an amazing about of differance between a 1.8 16v turbo or a 2lt williams turbo if both done for low boost?

ATB
TJ

[dhay14]

cheers Ben thankyou for taking the time out and exsplaining everything for us turbo wana bees lol It was an intresting read, :D in your opinion would there be an amazing about of differance between a 1.8 16v turbo or a 2lt williams turbo if both done for low boost?

ATB
TJ

for me the biggest difference between the two would be the torque a 2L makes compares to the 1.8.

I never driven a turbo'd 1.8 but had a N/A 1.8 and later a turbo'd 2L and the amount of torque the turbo'd 2L makes is impressive.

for example. coops made 285 bhp and 260 Lbs of torque at 16psi with a F7P. I made 246 Bhp and 325Nm ( around 260Lbs) of torque at 10 psi.
But coops makes more RPM then my car does.. so to me there are differences between both engines and it will come down to personal preferences..

Like coops said dont start a renault projict thinking it will be easy, quick, and most deff cheap. its gonna be a pain but the joy of driving a turbo'd clio is priceless in my books

good luck with the build and if anything just drop a question on the forum there are enough people with experience on here,...

[Coops]

as above really, you get a more 'square result' (bhp more closely aligned to torque) with an F7R lump and more bang for your boost too.

but F7P blocks and spares cost feck all, so i',m sticking to f7p and a bit more boost! :lol: