View Full Version : Part throttle kangarooing
HAI!!!!
Ok, doing boring commuting everyday in slow traffic is not much fun, especially when on tiny throttle inputs, especially on clutch biting point, I get a kangaroo effect from the engine.
Without gears engaged at standstill on tiny throttle input the revs are inconsistent, they fluctuate across the cylinders. Its not a big problem, but annoying.
I am guessing the following:
Lambda
Dirty injector(s)
Crank sensor
Gunner180 ECU map
Any other options?
It is NOT sparks, HT leads, dizzy or CTS as these are all virtually brand new.
Tanks! :D
Justin..
20-01-2010, 19:20
I have the same problem, would like to know a remedy
busterhymes
20-01-2010, 19:39
ran a 180 chip no problems with low speed running or idle
busterhymes
20-01-2010, 19:46
is problem worse when cold or same across the board
Justin..
20-01-2010, 19:50
Mines ALOT worse when cold, it feels more like misfires
busterhymes
20-01-2010, 20:31
CTS, lambda are fav culprits when cold but basic checks on such things as plugs, leads, distributor cap always good to do :wink:
all my f7 powered clios have all done this, very very slight it is and same with holding revs on. never bothered me, figured old wiring= old earths = crap electrics and assciated issues :lol:
all my F7 powered clios have all done this, very very slight it is and same with holding revs on. never bothered me, figured old wiring= old earths = crap electrics and assciated issues :lol:
With mine, if you are just very lightly holding revs as you say, you can hear it fluctuate, as if one piston chamber is less fuelled than the others or one more than the others if you see what I mean.
simonr85
21-01-2010, 10:50
mines doing this too, i think its the vacuum pipe that goes from the map sensor to the inlet manifold, behind the drivers headlight. (probably blocked or split or not properly connected to the manifold)
as when i play around with that pipe it seems to make the problem worse/better.
Gonna have a proper look when its a bit warmer!
mines doing this too, i think its the vacuum pipe that goes from the map sensor to the inlet manifold, behind the drivers headlight. (probably blocked or split or not properly connected to the manifold)
as when i play around with that pipe it seems to make the problem worse/better.
Gonna have a proper look when its a bit warmer!
Interesting you say that. I have a pinhead hole in mine. may replace it and see what happens...
Poor earth causing voltage fluctualtion to / from sensors. You should hold the throttle at 2.5k and it should be rock solid not fluctualting.
simonr85
21-01-2010, 14:09
mines doing this too, i think its the vacuum pipe that goes from the map sensor to the inlet manifold, behind the drivers headlight. (probably blocked or split or not properly connected to the manifold)
as when i play around with that pipe it seems to make the problem worse/better.
Gonna have a proper look when its a bit warmer!
Interesting you say that. I have a pinhead hole in mine. may replace it and see what happens...
let us know your findings, and where and how much you get the new vac pipes from???
white16valver
21-01-2010, 14:58
This thread is all good!
Fluctuating idle really shouldn't be a problem on standard cams lol
LEIGH-ANNE
21-01-2010, 16:37
My 2 started doing this when i had that new chip put in
Poor earth causing voltage fluctualtion to / from sensors. You should hold the throttle at 2.5k and it should be rock solid not fluctualting.
2.5k is fine. I am talking 1050 rpm(ish). When doing slooooow commuting, holding biting point going up hill it is a pain.
May be wrong but is it possible it could just be the clutch springs. almost like a harmonic bounce if that makes sense. I know exactly what your experiencing always had it on occasions with different cars and never really thought it was a big deal.
My 2 started doing this when i had that new chip put in
just to bring this post back from the dead instead of starting a new 1.
my williams has stopped doing this since i hav removed the gunner180 chip and replaced with the standard chip but now i hav a new problem which has started 2nite, its like its running out of fuel wen crusing at a steady speed :? any 1 got any ideas??
busterhymes
20-02-2010, 09:19
hi kyle, just a comment the car had the same issue with an original OE chip fitted thats why i changed coolant temp sensor and cleaned out the ISCV this cured the problem for me so bit suspicious that the 180 chip was the fault
re your new fault thats a new one to me seems a coincidence that changing the chip has brought up another fault :?
I doubt it is a related issue.
The 180 chip isn't actually a fault, it's due to the rather lean map it runs at very low throttle I believe. It's more of an annoyance than a problem, as long as I know it's just that. The performance gains are worth it.
Cooper, that could be several things causing your problem ranging from minor to serious. Have a search.
yea i removed the gunner chip coz my mates diagnostics wouldnt connect to the ecu, kept saying wrong ecu so we thought it mit be coz the chip was installed. havent had chance to get it bak to him to try it now to see if it was the chip that was blocking it.
my new problem tho seems like its struggling, like if its not getting enough fuel, just been out an its still doing it just not as bad as last nite, it only seems to do it tho wen i'm doing a steady speed, it dont do it wen i'm accellerating.
i was searching through the site last nite and couldnt find anything so i'll keep looking.
any ideas what it could be, the fuel filter is only 2 months old and the injectors were cleaned by the last owner?
busterhymes
20-02-2010, 15:37
injectors definitely done and you should have a receipt from SGL in Hull :) :)
ECU is a PH1 16v ECU not the williams one but i have been reliably told that it is ok to use (info off the wc forum) wonder if thats why it kicks up the fault you get on diagnostics
injectors definitely done and you should have a receipt from SGL in Hull :) :)
ECU is a PH1 16v ECU not the williams one but i have been reliably told that it is ok to use (info off the wc forum) wonder if thats why it kicks up the fault you get on diagnostics
yea i found the reciept for the injectors mate.
that will certinatly be the reason y the diagnostics wont connect lol.
wat was the reason for the ECU change?
busterhymes
20-02-2010, 15:50
the original ECU died and could not get a williams one at the time so i posted on WC and was advised the PH1 16v ECU was ok to use with the correct chip i had no problems with OE or gunnerchip before or after fitting apart from the kangarooing, changing the CTS and cleaning ISCV sorted that have you been round all the earths checked and cleaned?
im suffering from this too! gonna clean the ISCV tomorrow and go from there...
hmmmm changed CTS and a bit better. so list of possible culprits are
lambda,dirty injectors,crank sensor,chip,CTS,ISCV,vacuum pipe and bad earths?
Kris2012
02-12-2012, 21:25
I'm gonna join this thread rather than post on my other one.
I fitted a brand new CTS and the car drives like a dream when cold. I was really enjoying myself right up to the point that the engine warmed up and then the kangarooing started. It makes it more embarrassing cus I've still got the Mongoose exhaust and everybody else knows about it too.
I've tried flushing the ISCV and although it made the idle slightly better it hasn't cured the problem. A replacement ISCV (and exhaust) are on their way.
I also noticed that Renault have CTSs back on RPD.
Kris2012
25-05-2013, 17:38
New CTS and ISCV. Still got the problem.
At least the Mongoose exhaust is being swapped for standard next week.
Kris2012
16-06-2013, 13:29
I've changed a few parts and can say with confidence that it was the Lambda sensor...or the distributor cap, or the rotor arm and possibly related to the oil in the spark plug wells.
Anyway. IT'S FIXED. :-D
Ahhh this might shed a little light on matters. Mine has oil in the plug wells and has similar kangarooing. It is going into the garage this week to get sorted so will report back with the results...
andreas395
16-06-2013, 19:45
Both of mine had this problem with oil in the plug wells I found that changing the rocket cover gasket and using hi temp sealant on both sides solves this problem.
I had no problems with the way it was running though
paddy16v told me this years ago and works a treat 8-)
Kris2012
18-06-2013, 20:44
I splashed out on the Power Gaskets set:
http://www.powergaskets.co.uk/page7.htm
172lover
18-06-2013, 20:54
@ Packs,
Change the cam cover gasket :)
You can tell if the fault lies with the cam cover gasket by checking the spark plug wells. Loads of oil=it's leaking. In rare cases it's the cam carriers leaking.
The other option is that you or someone else has spilt a load of oil in when topping up oil.
@ Packs,
Change the cam cover gasket :)
Already on the agenda mate ;)
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