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Coops
22-08-2007, 21:37
my GT28RS turbo when i buy it?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORGE-ADJUSTABLE-ACTUATOR-FORD-SIERRA-COSWORTH-4X4_W0QQitemZ110160657780QQihZ001QQcategoryZ72205Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

white16valver
23-08-2007, 13:44
An actuator is an actuator - isn't it??

Scougar
23-08-2007, 15:57
What engine you planning on putting it on. That is loosely a 2 litre stage 2 or 3 turbo. Very fast at spooling (for it's size) and power upto about 330-350bhp I believe (maybe higher haven't looked at stuff for my 200sx in a while since I sold it).

If you want I can find out for you about it?

Matthew

Scougar
23-08-2007, 15:59
Just looked at the link. Why are you buying it for that price.. why don't you get an HKS unit for cheaper that is adjustable?

Are you going to be running any form of computer boost controller or just run off the actuator and bleed valve?

Matthew

Coops
23-08-2007, 20:04
am not buying yet am investigating, i want a forge one to match my dump valve ideally :oops:

will be running it on my 1.8 16v clio, initially at around 15-16psi for 250bhp then remap upto 21psi for around 300-320 bhp? was going to adjust it on the actuator arm only and keep an eye on boost thru boost gauge. no bleed valve!

thelynx
26-08-2007, 01:21
Get a -34

Scougar
28-08-2007, 10:21
I would really recommend you get an electronic boost controller, as purely running of the actuator won't be very consistant (you'll get different performance as the spring heats up). The boost controller effectively fits between the actuator and only lets air pass to it when the correct pressure is found. The only real disadvantages are 1) extra cost for boost controller 2) possibility that by setting the actuator lower than the boost controller... extra sudden strain is doled out to it. (If actuator is set as 10psi and you have 15psi on controller, then that's quite a pressure difference, although it's only a possibility, and nothing to realistically to worry about in practice).

Matthew

Scougar
28-08-2007, 10:25
Oh and the GT28RS is a very good match for a 2 litre engine with the power you want, a 34 would be too much and spool up more slowly. When it did come on boost you would get a massive torque spike and loose traction very easily as the clio is FWD and far too light to handle it.

You'll prob be needing at least 450cc to 500cc injectors with it however. (you can get bigger without any real ill effect, but make sure you don't get too small else you'll go too lean and kill your engine).

Matthew

Coops
28-08-2007, 21:35
injectors i have are good to many many bhp! :lol:

cheers for the advice tho. i'll look into a boost controller, but if i keep an eye on the boost gauge and ensure i set the actuator within the limits of the map even when warm am pretty sure it will be fine

GT-Facer
29-08-2007, 13:09
I'd advise getting a EBC aswell. They are very usefull, and muchos fun!
Can set the boost lower for when your plodding about, then if you want to overtake with a bigger smile on your face, or see something you want to give a proper trouncing then you can just tweek the dial up to the next preset and away you go :twisted:

Had lots of fun with the Blitz dual SBC i had on my GT4. you could set 4 different preasures (only used 3 of them though)

Coops
29-08-2007, 20:54
why would i ever want to turn the boost down on a car i only use for thrashing? :? :wink: :twisted: :twisted:

Scougar
30-08-2007, 10:43
The other advantage is that the help with the change in weather better than manual options (i.e. they compensate for foggy weather).

To be honest, they still are perfect, but they give a greater level of control of where and when you want the boost. You can even get them to pre spike the turbo so you get upto boost quicker. (all done via manual settings).

Matthew

Scougar
30-08-2007, 10:50
An actuator is an actuator - isn't it??

You have much to learn little one :p But seriously, the quality really does vary between critical components like this. You don't want to get cheap as that can mean the difference between at best, it slowly degrading and you losing boost, or a total failure and you overboosting which then screws your engine. (i.e. the actuator siezing or tearing of the diaphragm).

It's like buying a cheap turbo from xspower, they are crap normally, and either seize or put metal fragments into you cylinders. Only a handful have been reported as actually working reliably. Garrett's very rarely fail.

Matthew