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  1. #11
    Forum User Crossers's Avatar
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    Mine wasn't bonded. I just pushed it back in with the thinnest smear of sealant and there's no hint of any leakage.

    Paul

  2. #12
    Forum User PhilW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossers View Post
    Mine wasn't bonded. I just pushed it back in with the thinnest smear of sealant and there's no hint of any leakage.

    Paul
    You got lucky Paul, mine wont sit back in place, so unfortunately its sump back off and tap out the remainder of the tube.
    I'm going to see if a friend can braise them back together again, if not its a new one...

  3. #13
    I've had 1 of mine welded back together so it's not much of a problem tbh

  4. #14
    Forum User PhilW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16v_paddy View Post
    I've had 1 of mine welded back together so it's not much of a problem tbh
    just thought that I would post up the solution to the problem and see that Paddy has beaten me to it 😉.
    I got my Dads mate to brasie the two parts together for me, after he did this he was not happy that the join was very strong as the metal on the lips is quite thin. So he made a collar to go over the join, brasied it on level with the lower section (so it will sit in the correct position) and then filled this with brass weld.
    It should now last even if it ever needs to be removed again by a future owner 👍
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  5. #15
    Forum User PhilW's Avatar
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    Just to complete this thread incase anyone looks to see how to remove the oil dip stick tube in the future.
    One the sump has been removed, you look to where the dip stick enters into the block and you will see the other end of the dip stick tube as shown below



    You just need to use a suitable drift and hammer to tap it out from the sump side.
    This will avoid all the welding repairs as this part is one of the many now that is NLA.
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