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  1. #11
    Wow...don't want that to happen but yes i suspected it could be the head gasket or worse a cracked head.

    I need to get a compression tool to find out...if i have lost compression would that lead to head gasket?

    And i have got lucky as i havent blown the bottle but i have driven it hard and i am scared i have done something

  2. #12
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    how long have you had the car? how long has it overheated after a hard drive? also when we're saying 'driving hard' is this like time attack laps around a track style or a spirited drive?

    These do get hot quick which is why there is an oil cooler built into the cooling system... but I would first check the coolant and pieces it runs through.. does the blower inside get hot/warm when the car is up to temp? if its luke warm that's the signs of a blockage, then it wont cool properly.. this will then lead to a gasket failure and the dreaded warped head you fear..

    Do you let the car warm up before driving fast and high revs? thrashing a cold engine is not good!! I think the ideal range is get close to 80' on the oil temp gauge before going over 4/5k revs..

    mine is on 153k and luckily never had any issues with over heating but then I do try to keep it well maintained.. presumably the levels of the fluids are at the max? coolant/oil etc?

    and a failed gasket would lead to shitty compression results

  3. #13
    First off I have to say it again....everyone is wicked on this site...loads of respect for everyone

    Answers:
    - I have had the car for must be 5 years now give or take 2 years
    - I drove the car on the road for about 2 years, drove it hard never overheated ever, i then gave it to "a mechanic" he did come recommended added flywheel, clutch, pads other bits and pieces but as soon as I left that garage the car was never the same. I did track day with it and 3 laps overheating, and only short laps. On a the drive up there no issue at all on the way back, filled up water 10 times.
    - I really cannot remember the heating it's been sitting for a while, I will start it again and check. And yes I am scared I have mucked something up internal
    - the car was warm, you lap a couple of times first and then go for it so the engine was warm...
    - I am the same I checked all levels, topped up with oil, water, and the rest it is my baby which is why I feel bad if I did kill it...I blame the mechanic

    and ok I will check the compression to see.

    I wish i just ask someone on this site before I went to some bodger which is why I thought new engine from someone on this site....cause well hoping people want to know she is still about

    thanks mate

  4. #14
    Losing water is screaming head gasket at me now, is there white smoke coming from the exhaust? It's sounding a lot like the head gasket has failed between 1 of the bores and the waterways
    Mine was overheating after sighting laps at a trackday as well My fan wasn't kicking in so rigged up a permanent 12v to it & carried on with the day & it went pop on the way home

    Compression test as well as the sniff tester will confirm if it is the head gasket

    I wouldn't be too harsh on the mechanic just yet - depending what the other "bits & pieces" were of course - a head gasket failing is completely unrelated & nothing to do with clutch, flywheel, discs & pads. It's a bit like getting a new stereo fitted & blaming the guy that fitted it for 1 of your tyres getting a puncture

  5. #15
    Hahaha...so true mate....ok so.....head gasket....Not that bad of a job..but nothing I think I could do....well is it just take off....add gasket...put back on....as you can see how much of a mechanic in me... and did the same thing with my fan....would I have the gunk in the oil I don't think I saw any....let me go to eBay now buy the testers and give it a go. Anyone know the cost of a garage doing the job? On average and in London

    the willy will be back.....and I cannot wait

  6. #16
    Head gaskets can go in a few different ways so oil & water doesn't always mix



    If you look at all of the little holes around the bores, some are oil ways and others for water, the gasket can fail between them to allow it to mix, or the gasket can fail between the cylinders causing a loss of compression & power and they can also fail between the bore and a waterway which is what you'rs sounds like it's done.


    Quote Originally Posted by zaf View Post
    Hahaha...so true mate....ok so.....head gasket....Not that bad of a job..but nothing I think I could do....well is it just take off....add gasket...put back on....as you can see how much of a mechanic in me.
    Yes you could do that but I'd advise against it as getting the head checked out 1st is critical - needs to be inspected for damage & repaired if possible, pressure tested, skimmed and if it's off the car it'd be foolish to not get the valve guides checked & replaced as necessary - essentially be prepared to have to completely rebuild the head.

    As for cost, London makes it a bit more difficult to guess but as a guide, the local engineering place I use will strip, pressure test, skim & rebuild a 4 cylinder head for about £150 + any other parts needed, which is around £8 per valve guide and about £20 for a set of valve stem oil seals.
    You'll also need to factor in the cost of a cambelt kit as the old 1 will be coming off anyway & it'd be stupid not to fit a new one

  7. #17
    Great thanks for that...i think a little too much for me at the moment...will ask a mechanic to have a look at what you have just said..if the head is cracked or warped that's it right? How long should it take for the mechanic to say...yep....head is up the duff...a couple of days i guess...

    I am going to talk to someone today to check the car out and tell me what is up...at that point if it is bad and will cost just as much as sourcing another engine....then the engine will be the route...luck is what i need

  8. #18
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    the only thing you need to worry about getting a new/spare engine is that unless its been recently rebuilt you have no idea of what the condition/state of it is.. the one you buy could potentially be on its way out too..

    don't want to put you off or scare you but you need to be aware of all possibilities as you don't want to get a 2nd engine and have issues with that aswell.. maybe cheaper to keep the one you have and just get a new head if that is found to be the source of the issues..

  9. #19
    100% about the engine, i would only buy it from someone who is a member of this site...but so true you never know. Lets see what the mechanic says this weekend (or next week) and then i will go from there.

  10. #20
    Thing is, all your mechanic can do is send the head to a machine shop or engine builder to get it inspected but it is a relatively quick process to test that it's perfectly flat, visually inspected then pressure tested

    As for a replacement engine, unless you know it's recently been rebuilt or has plenty of proof that's it's low enough mileage, I personally wouldn't bother & just get yours rebuilt. You need to bear in mind that at best you'll be getting an engine that's 20+ years old and it's going to need money spending on stuff that would be crazy not to have done while it's sat out of the car & so much easier to do like clutch, cambelt, water pump.

    I can see things from your perspective though as you're not able to do the hard work of dismantling the engine to send bits off so I'd suggest to go ahead with a compression test and see what the results are. Ignoring the bad results - you will have at lest 1 or 2 if the HG has gone - if there's healthy compression in the other cylinders you'll know that the rest of the engine is in good health & you can get away with just concentrating on the getting the head sorted.

    Can't fully remember off the top of my head but somewhere around 160psi per cylinder is what compression a healthy F7R should have


 

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