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  1. #11

  2. #12
    Forum User Economical's Avatar
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    Bad photo, trying to post from work, ill upload the new pics when I get home, when you say the sensor pointing the wheel, is it grey? And if so I this the ecu temp sensor? Its the only one I haven't changed, got a new fae lambda, and the brown and white temp sensors new too, with a new low pressure oil sensor

  3. #13
    No idea what the colour of the sensor is tbh but it points towards the wheel & of the 3 sensors on the thermostat housing it's the most important as it's the only 1 that "talks" to the ecu & controls fuelling. The other 2 sensors are for the fan and the display on the dash.

    Northy was on about this for the pic of yours

    This is what the Clio manifold looks like



    This is what the R19 manifold looks like

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  4. #14
    Forum User Economical's Avatar
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    few pictures, the block isn't a f7r the back of the block isn't ridged where the crank is as far as i can see, also which ecu is this? and the grey sensor when unplugged, nothing happens, i think they blew the engine in the willams and just threw this in and sold it.
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  5. #15
    Forum User Economical's Avatar
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    also the dipstick had a white dot, i scratched this off to find the propper blue dot?
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    Last edited by Economical; 22-08-2015 at 16:43.

  6. #16
    The plot thickens

    The ecu is a williams item so that's correct but it's time to get serious to solve what engine it is. The manifolds are correct but everything is pointing towards it being a bit of a con merchant job

    Remove the spark plug from the cylinder closest to the cam belt, get a long enough rod/screwdriver and stick it in the hole. Remove the other 3 plugs as well as it will make the next step a lot easier to do.
    Jack the car up on the drivers side, remove the wheel for easier access and get a breaker bar or big ratchet with a 19mm socket on it. Use this on the main crank pulley to turn the engine over, you might have to take the plastic cover off to get at it, the bolts are 10mm head & easy to get at.

    Get a helper to watch the rod you've stuck into the bore while you turn the engine by hand, keep turning until the rod gets to the very top of it's travel, if it starts to drop, turn it back the other way until it's back at the very top. Once there, make a mark on the rod using the top of the cam cover as a reference point.
    Then turn the engine by hand again until the rod gets to the very bottom and mark the rod again.
    Take the rod out & measure the distance between the 2 marks and you'll know what the stroke measurement is

    F7R is 93mm & F7P is 83.5mm

    That measurement will show beyond any doubt what engine you've got

  7. #17
    Forum User Economical's Avatar
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    83.5mm :( so being a f7p? running a williams ecu, could i solve the running problems by just using an f7p ecu? also how do i know if the gearbox is a real jc5? many thankyous for the help guys
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  8. #18
    Some serious detective work going on here, kudos to the level of geekery involved!

  9. #19
    Forum User Economical's Avatar
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    Also I'm doubting the whole car is a Williams, the more and more I look i can see how easy it Is to make a valver a Williams, is there any definitive way of checking the shells a williams?

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Economical View Post
    Also I'm doubting the whole car is a Williams, the more and more I look i can see how easy it Is to make a valver a Williams, is there any definitive way of checking the shells a williams?
    Get your logbook out & compare the chassis number on that with the plate on top of the drivers headlight and the top of the suspension tower but if it's a williams the chassis number and the vin plate will have C57M on it and if it's a valver it will say C57D

    A phase 1 valver ecu will get it running correctly, doubt a phase 2 ecu will work as it's immobilised. Where your ecu says 107, the valver 1 will say 103 or 105, I can just never remember which is ph1 7 ph2

    As for the gearbox, it's tricky to tell definitively as the part numbers stamped into the casings don't always come up with what you expect & only really relate to the casing which is shared by a lot of other variants of Clio.
    The main way I know of to tell the difference between a JB3 & JC5 is to look at the input shaft

    JC5's have this plate type thing around the input shaft



    and the same part on a JB3 box looks like this



 

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