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  1. #51
    Forum User PhilW's Avatar
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    It looks like a really nice car.
    just found it funny looking at the images, that in less than 6k someone has still managed to kerb the front alloy 😕

  2. #52
    It would depend on how much of it you did yourself and what trim you needed to replace as some of the trim parts are no longer available to buy.

    I took my track car back to bare metal & built it back up from almost scratch, the cost wasn't a lot as but the amount of hours put into it by myself was huge and as a lot of stuff didn't go back into the car, the time it'd take to get a fully restored road going car back together would probably be double.

    But with this as the starting point before spending any money & loosely estimated based on what I've spent



    Sand blasting back to bare metal was £200 - guy came out to my mates workshop
    Cost of materials to get car fully in 2 pack primer inside & out about £200 with me & a mate doing all the work
    Paint - cheapest 2 pack paint was white - inside & out cost £300 with me & a mate doing 95% of the prep work

    For a pro to do all of the paint in correct colour etc I wouldn't be shocked or surprised to see a bill of at least £3k

    Subframe overhaul with new nuts, bolts, washers, bushes etc along with everything else blasted & powdercoated about £250, evenmore if you go for new steering rack etc
    Suspension parts would cost somewhere in the region of £300-400 for new everything
    Gearbox rebuild is about £300-400 depending who you use
    Engine rebuid, I'd budget about £500 or so for parts plus whatever labour rates your preferred builder charges

  3. #53
    haha, makes 21,995 look like good value!

  4. #54
    Forum User
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    Well, as a guide for a full restore, there are receipts for well into five figures for everything that was done to 0425. And that didn't include the mechanical labour either.... Gulp!

  5. #55
    Paddy its like wheeler dealers they show the profit but don't factor in the labour times

  6. #56
    Forum User PhilW's Avatar
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    When you look at Paddys cost breakdown, you have to bear in mind that he started off with a solid rust free shell, most people wont be in that position. Fixing corrosion issues properly gets expensive, but if you tart up a rusty shell, youre wasting your time.
    Unless you are flipping a car for a profit, then thats the only way to go.

  7. #57
    Forum User Daz.'s Avatar
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    Thing is you could spend 100k on a nut bolt restoration and I'd still take this one over that - you can only be original once.

  8. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by Daz. View Post
    Thing is you could spend 100k on a nut bolt restoration and I'd still take this one over that - you can only be original once.
    ... which is why the 3k barge is a nicer car. The person who kerbed that alloy probably still wakes up screaming at three o'clock in the morning.

    It's great that these things exist (and there's at least one first series car on this website in similar condition but which has NO kerbed alloys), but please get out there and drive the car. You can't drive this car in the way it's meant to be driven any more.

  9. #59
    Forum User Crossers's Avatar
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    Full restoration wise, I'm now on nearly 12K (with a purchase price of 1900) and maybe a little over with stuff I've forgotten to add to the total.

    Mine will be used (in the dry) and driven as it should be.

    Paul
    Last edited by Crossers; 07-10-2015 at 16:53.

  10. #60
    Forum User fanshawe69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossers View Post
    Full restoration wise, I'm now on nearly 12K (with a purchase price of 1900) and maybe a little over with stuff I've forgotten to add to the total.

    Mine will be used (in the dry) and driven as it should be.

    Paul
    Exactly the same here. Going to drive it for what it was designed for but will aim for dry days...


 

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