Weight Of Performance Parts

[AND2386]

Hi I have been Weighing up all my parts that I am replacing with Up Rated Parts on My Clio Williams, so that when I have been looking in to New Performance Parts I can make sure there lighter to as part of the added performance bonus.

I unfortunately never got to weigh some of the items I have all ready and will be replacing.

You are probable thinking why did he not just take the original one and weigh that. I will explain in a minuet lol

So I am after the weights of these items if any one has these.

In KG Please

I am trying to get the weight of all the original size / Brand New Parts that have not yet been touched as for wear on these items will effect the original weight.

Now you may understand why I could not just weigh my old ones as they are shot lol

All must be Standard Parts In KG & for the Brake Parts New Parts Only Please.

1. 1 - Front Vented Brake Disk - KG -

2. 1 - Pair of Front Brake Pads - KG -

3. 1 - Rear Solid Brake Disk - KG -

4. 1 - Pair of Rear Brake Pads - KG -

5. 1 - Front Shock & Spring together - KG -

This Would be much appreciated

Many Thanks

Andrew

[fab]

I kinda see where your coming from looking at the unsprung weight but I dont see why bother looking at the weight of original versus performance parts. If you use very good performance parts the benefits will far outweigh the weight saving gained or lost.
For example..the brake pads. Pick a CL or other perfrormance brake pad and regardless of weight the CL's will outperform a standard set under intensive/track day driving.
Same again with the shocks and springs. Coilovers are what they are and wether they are lighter or heavier than original, they still will perform better and offer setup options more so than standard.Even if you choose to get coils made up or use lowered coils they will be heavier as the wire diameter is greater.
New brake discs if its any use to you weigh 5kg for the fronts(standard size,vented) and 4kg for the rears(without bearings).
I dont know what your application is for your car so maybe there are others who can chime in and offer some thought/advice.

[AND2386]

So I thought exactly how you did when I started this Project but I suddenly realized ever Gram & KG Became a massive incite on how much performance I was Gaining. I Have done quite a bit of work on the Car now and have manged to save on quite a bit of weight on so many parts now that I thought it would be good to find out on the parts above as well.

Thank you for the info though & I totally agree with you, ya some performance parts may be heaver but the result is worth it but if they are heavier I just would like to work that out and calculate that extra weigh with the weight I have manged to save on so I can get an idea on the cars overall Weigh and how much I have manged to safely save with out making the car un roadworthy lol.

Many Thanks

AND

[fab]

The parts that ive seen commonly targeted for weight loss are the wheels and brake calipers.
I believe a set of OZ's offer a good amount of reduction if replacing standards. Finding them can be difficult though.
4pots I'd imagine are lighter than standard calipers. Never really saw anyone mention the nuts and bolts?

Let us know what youve done so far. I'm always interested in lower and lighter

[16v_paddy]

Subframe mounting the engine, lightweight battery, headlight removal (ok not relevant to a road car but I weighed them at the time) & carbon/fibreglass bonnet came to a total of 40kg removed on mine

Converting to manual steering is somewhere around the 15kg mark in weight saving too

[fab]

Standard engine mount weighs in at 2.2kg. Fast road option 1kg.
Standard Wheels bolts (4) 400grams.Nuts and bolts for strut 300grams.

The willy subframe is double skinned so heavier than the valver one I think?
Would like to know how it feels with the engine mounted to it though

Paddy any options available for the drive shafts?

[AND2386]

I looked into changing the Sub Frame but with more power you are going to want strength in the frame, not less as you end up with twisting in the roof metal linening and less overall strength in the frame of the Car. The Rally Maxi Version uses this with a tad bigger anti roll bar as well I think, could be wrong though. I am shore that is the case though.

Head Lights a good one though, just depends on what look you are after and coveting to non power steering sounds good.

Theres a counter balance weight I found as well you can take out, I been a able to save a bit of weight there to. 5.5KG It is.

Thanks for your help though, I have managed to find out nearly all the weights I have been after. I just need to find out the weight of a standed Strut and Spring set up. Then I be on track again on working out where I have hopefully managed to save. Many Thanks AND

[fab]

I just need to find out the weight of a standed Strut and Spring set up.

WP_20150123_002.jpg

[AND2386]

You are a Legend

Thanks for that, I am on the case now on trying work out and sort out a non power steering rack. Any info or pictures any one may have from doing this would be great.

But Thanks for that Fab

[16v_paddy]

This is the main part of the manual conversion, the brackets needed for the alternator. Quite a common conversion so lots of info & better pics than mine will be on here somewhere




As for subframe mounting the engine, all the details are in my project thread http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/show...ally-Car/page9 the mounts I'm using do have rubber in them so vibration isn't an issue in the slightest, it's the maxi's & other rally cars that were solidly bolted to the subframe.

On mine you can see that I'm using a plastic cam cover from a megane and that the pulley cover is also gone (being replaced with a plastic 1 from an R19) I was also using 5 engine mounts before switching to subframe mounted so it's all those little things that soon add up