The old high idle thing - Iv tried the speedo earth......

[sideways danny]

change the thermostat. Clean the throttle body. Clean and lubricate (second part is important) the idle control valve

[16v_russ]

Next on the list to do Danny - Stat was changed along with coolant before it came off the road for a year, so I am assuming that should still be ok - it was more me wondering if I had earthed the right wire, due to the difference in symptoms when unplugging the cable wiring pulg, compared to plugging it back in - ie the idle and reving although not right, was better with cable plugged in, but im really just speculating, il give the mentioned a good clean up and report back

[16v_russ]

Update time,


Had about 2 hours on Duf today, I took the ICV off and gave it a good clean with carb cleaner, followed by some WD40, I cleaned every electrical plug I could find with electrical cleaner, I re-earthed the dash again (Made a better job of it) and took the air filter off and cleaned the throttle body (Well I say clean, it was spotless to begin with).

I put it all back together, jump started it as the battery was flat (Not used it all week and I think the battery needs a charge so il chuck it on the battery charger at work tomorrow) and took it for a tentitve first drive.


Bottom line is, it was better than before, but still not fixed.

Was pretty gutted to be honest, I was hoping it would fix it, but I thought of one thing I didn't try - looking at the idle screw on the throttle body.

So I had a look, and the white cap was down the side of the screw, which was a big relief - it's not great it had been fiddled with, but at least I knew it wasn't as it was supposed to be. So while it was running, I screwed it in - I was screwed out LOADS! As I kept turning, the idle got lower (As expected) and I took it to about 1000 rpm - I went for another drive and it was so much better - revs dropping much faster, and every time I stopped the idle dropped to circa 1000rpm.

Now it's not perfect - the revs still go up slightly when I dip the clutch, and the revs don't drop to idle as quick as id like, but it is not correctly mapped so that may be something to do with it and it is now 95% better and much much more enjoyable to drive



Just a few questions:

Should the ICV 'tap' if you tap it? When it was off, I noticed if I shook it, there was like a tap or rattle from inside the IVC - if I tapped it lightly on my carpet in my garage it tapped - as if something was loose/worn inside it - does anyone know if they are supposed to?

Secondly, the revs drop sometimes when you are on idle and turning - does the Williams have a rev stabalising valve in the power steering pipes or pump?

Cheers guys and thanks for all the advise so far

[16v_russ]

Anyone?

[Coops]

theres a pressure relief valve in the rack i believe that could cause the idle fluctuations on cornering

and yes the ISCV will rattle, the position of it is held constantly by a suppose a magnet or something, so with no power to it the shutter is free to flap about, the looser it is the better, its the build up of soot and crap over the years that stops it moving freely

[16v_russ]

Cheers Coops

Il see what i can find out r.e. The valve, apart from a new speedo cable its the only thing i can think of that is causing the idle problem