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  1. #1
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    HELP -- bleeding rear calipers ONLY

    Hello guys,


    I've just installed an adjustable bias valve instead of the factory load proportioning bias valve and now need to bleed the rear.

    I tried to bleed the rear but the pedal just went hard and could not bleed the rear. I understand this has happened because the front is already bled, therefore the master cylinder has no where to push. I know the system should be bled as a whole, following a certain sequence, but is there any way of bleeding just the rear ?

    I did not start the engine because I had the tank removed and currently have no fuel. Will it make any difference if I start the engine ?

    Ohhh and bdw, the car is a Renault 5 GTT, I presume everything is the same as the clio (at least everything looks identical to my 16v).

    Any help is greatly appreciated.


    Cheers,

    David.

  2. #2
    Is the bias valve fully openend?

  3. #3
    Forum User Wobba's Avatar
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    Don't need to run engine.

    Use Eezi-bleed system, make sure reservoir is about 1/3rd or half full (wont need all for just rears). Attached bleed hose to nipple, open nipple (with the adjustable bias in the fully open position), watch fluid and bubbles come out for a bit till clear, close bleed nipple. Repeat for other side.

  4. #4
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    but shouldn't pumping the pedal give the same result ?

    and I just got to know that the chambers on the master cylinder are not one for the front, and the other for the rear, but LF & RR and RF & LR. Does this mean I need to bleed also the front ?

    Because when I removed the lines to install the bias valve, almost all the fluid in the reservoir drained out.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidbuttigieg
    but shouldn't pumping the pedal give the same result ?

    and I just got to know that the chambers on the master cylinder are not one for the front, and the other for the rear, but LF & RR and RF & LR. Does this mean I need to bleed also the front ?

    Because when I removed the lines to install the bias valve, almost all the fluid in the reservoir drained out.
    if all the fluid has drained from the reservoir u should really bleed the whole system starting with the brakes that are furtherest away from the master cylinder.
    make sure the adjustable bias valve is open all the way and then after bleeding just adjust to suit.

  6. #6
    Forum User Wobba's Avatar
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    Yea bleed the lot. Not hard nor expensive. Invest in an eezi-bleed kit...trust me.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobba
    Yea bleed the lot. Not hard nor expensive. Invest in an eezi-bleed kit...trust me.
    Do you know what's the correct sequence ?

    left rear
    right front
    right rear
    left front

    ???

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobba
    Yea bleed the lot. Not hard nor expensive. Invest in an eezi-bleed kit...trust me.
    Is this kit the small bottle that attaches to the spare wheel ?

  9. #9
    Found the eazi bleed thing a bit crap.

    Halfords sell a £4 - 5 bleeder, dont remember its name but its jus a bit of tube with a one way valve and a clampfor the nipple, works absoltuely spoton.

    loosen bleed nipple very slightly attache tube and clamp, open bleed valve fully,pump pedal 20-30 times, repeat on all 4 wheels and you have perfectlybled brakes.

  10. #10
    Forum User schakal's Avatar
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    I have to agree with mister Chris Pee on this one ,that one way valve tube thing works wonders


 

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