turbo set up help

[walters300]

many turbo duders on here so hopefully you can help, my car has the turbo and all bits on and its running, its forged and based on a bb tuning install with a bb low boost chip, sounds a bit lumpy and needs fine tuning, i have investigated the set up to sort it out diy, no mechanic but getting there, i am thinking of getting the r21 turbo injectors cleaned and then get a afr gauge and hook it up to the manifold, hopefully then i can use the fuel pressure regulator to fine tune the fueling to make sure i am not running lean, this with the injector clean will hopefully sort that out, i have no idea how to set up the boost side of it, any help much appreciated, i am thinking of manual controller as i can diy it, are electronic ones better? I am happy with 220 bhp so i only need to fine tune it from where it is, any help much appreciated as i havent a clue, thanks lads

[Chet T16]

Certainly a good idea to get a look at the AFR first. Worry about the injectors later

Forget about trying to use the FPR to fine tune it, thats like adjusting your cam timing with a hammer.

What boost is it running?

[kj16v]

[quote="Chet T16"]Certainly a good idea to get a look at the AFR first. Worry about the injectors later
Forget about trying to use the FPR to fine tune it, thats like adjusting your cam timing with a hammer...quote]

Yep agree 100% Also, to get any useful AFR readings you need a Wideband gauge and sensor, not just one that wires into the stock lambda sensor.

You seriously need to get it tuned properly before even running any boost. No exageration when I say that running a poorly setup turbo engine can ruin it in seconds.

BTW, I run a tuning and remapping service for Clios, including Turbos.
Click the link below:
http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/...ic.php?t=39584

I don't want to spam up your thread so PM or gimme a ring if you want any more info.

[walters300]

its running low boost which is 9psi i think, and it did have a electronic boost controller but i removed it after a rebuild and plugged off the dump valve so i have a pidgeon noise, some say good... some say bad! kj if you were down the road this post wouldnt even be on here :P ! will ponder the whole boost thing on the weekend and see if i can work most of it out and ask you guys to fill in the gaps for me. it sounds like a rolling road effort is essential, is this beyond the realms of DIY ? trouble is i have no specialist anywhere near me and i would have to ship the car over,

[Coops]

get a wideband, i've just bought a AEM effort from scoff on RTOC, about 160 squid it was. it goes into the downpipe on a new weld in boss that comes in the kit.

can squeak up the fuel pressure to make it safer but its no substitute for a proper setup

the BB chips should idle fine, mines dot on 950 idle, and was the same on the low boost chip as well. so something else may be amiss, kippered sensor or something?

i run a manual boost controller, but if your stopping on low boost then you can usually fine tune the boost with the actuator, but obviously you need a boost gauge plumbed up to the inlet to check results. the actuator will have a threaded bar on it with a locking nut, simply loosen the nut,then undo the clip from the wastegate pin and pop the actuator arm off, then turn it half turns each way to increase and decrease boost. nip for a test run after each adjustment to check result on the boost gauge.

flutter sound from no DV is personal taste, allegedly doenst affect the turbo at all but i still cant see how putting extra pressure on the turbo is good so i run a recirculating DV :D

[walters300]

starting to understand it now top man mr coops! i have an adjustable recirc valve but its set at 16 psi so its just like capping it off at the moment. was wondering how i can set that to 9psi, i assume thats what it needs to be? and pipe it to a massive air box i am going to build. would i T the boost gauge in the pipe from the turbo to the fpr?

my silicone hose goes from the inlet manifold to a T, which goes to the top of the FPR and the recirc valve.
another hose line goes from the turbo to the bottom of the FPR and then on to the pipe on the side of the block by the inlet manifold, does this sound right? i also have blanked one port on the inlet manifold and the other has a non return valve between the inlet and rocker cover port.
map sensor goes to inlet manifold on the alternator side. yes!!! i am this bad... [/list]

[Chet T16]

Is the car in Ireland? Whereabouts?

[walters300]

yes its in cork. are you anywhere near bud?

[Chet T16]

I'm in wicklow so not that near

You say the setup is based on BB's, whats different? I ran a couple of different turbo setups on fastchip management (most of BB's turbo setup was fastchip, at least originally) and they were spot on

As Coops said, i'd be more thinking its a dodgy standard sensor. If you hear hooves think horses and all that!

[walters300]

its a total standard set up with a t25 turbo, williams engine and forged bits and ecu with bb tuning chip, 2 bar 21 turbo map sensor which i might change as that could be my problem, anybody got one?? i need to make sure the 6mm hoses for the boost are correct too, does this sound right.
1. turbo actuator to FPR then FPR to pipe on side of block near inlet manifold.
2. pipe from inlet manifold to a T and then from that to the top of the FPR and to the recirc valve.
3. blocked off one other port on the inlet and the other goes to the rocker cover with a non return valve inline.

if all is good it should be a matter of using the boost gauge to tune as coops says, then all should be fine? any other sensors you can think of which might cause idle problems? thanks guys this really does clear up what i thought would be a very complex operation :D