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if its mapped correctly for them then the cosworth ones will be fine.

Here is a table a quick google got me, I used to have the chart but not sure where its gone. Anyway the part numbers are...

No they are different to the 21 injectors. They have little spare capacity for even the 1.8's really. Generally the early F7P's have the greens, the later engines went to the higher flowing yellows.

You won't get too much pressure. The relief valve takes care of it. The pump is a simple device, it is always putting out what it can the only way to increase its output is to spin it faster. The...

If it runs on three then your barking up the wrong wooden pole. Bear in mind these are primitive I mean really basic, this is lego basic stuff. The injection is batch fired and it runs a dizzy and...

I always use sealant on them, on any engine I build that has that setup I use sealant. Vags used to be like that but went to an o-ring in the same style you have done. If you leave the guards off...

Future reference since mats fixed it for you with a new pipe is the plastic pipes can be repaired with compression fixings. Any truck garage will have them for air lines but they are fuel resistant...

Best way undo the drain plug on the block at the back. Not all blocks have it. 11mm tapered thread. Flush the engine through and blobby crap will come out. Poke into the hole with a pick or something...

tracker

well if its fine on the lines to the bias valve then not after it its got to be an issue int he valve despite what your airgun test said.

Only messy if you don't do it right, other benefit is you get a decent bit of overboost on accel with it referenced to the manifold

dizzy out a metro :lol:

undo the top bolts to the inlet manifold, then the belt can be taken off

do you have the valve fully shut?

tap it into the manifold, this way you'll actually get the desired boost at the manifold, this will mean higher actual boost at the turbo outlet so reducing life a bit.

use a steel pipe for any...

yes they come with new bushes and balljoints, the balljoints will need a final nip up though, they are supplied loose on the arm.

Williams TRE's

top mount bearings etc are the same on all models

the meganes, lagunas, clios etc don't come with the pin later on, inside the inner CV theres a cup and spring to keep the cv held onto the end of the output shaft.

You can run the older ones with...

probably would , but the car being registered after 92
it will require a cat regardless of emissions :wink:[/quote]

wrong! The car doesn't need a CAT, to be fitted

even the latest emissions...

you'll finding upping the boost will lean it out, as its not a inear relationship with fueling and boost pressure. Theres so many variables in the process, like wheres the MAP sensor taken from?...

cold idle will be rich but 11:1 is pushing it!

tbh if its 12:1 at 10psi in 3rd, I'd probably bump the boost up to lean it off slightly. Should pick up power and economy

pour a boiled kettle's worth of water over the rail. The hot water softens the o-rings and can help with removal.

sound sliek your average kwik fit fitter.

not knowing his arse from elbow.

Performance column, broom pole cut to fit, rustic looking and lightweight :lol:

just weld the fecker

never mind the fact nitrogen leeches out a lot easier.

its all shite btw

no the P doesn't have any ribs. The R is a P block with a different casting the ribs are cast into it to move the wall out from the crank throws so there is clearance for the crank to rotate.

The...

Stoich/Lambda 1 is the chemically correct ratio for complete combustion but a few issues,

you never get complete combustion
Its not best for economy or power

Stoich is what manufacturers aim...

erm the rib does provide clearance, without it the crank won't turn as the big end hits the block

Its not a strengthening rib either, the casting is different and the ribs are there as the retain...

just a pipe wrong mate, closer than most.

Sometimes the issue happens with themrs, theres 2 pipes so to speak awful close together

they are clearance ribs so the crank can turn! The big ends hit the block without the reliefs.

The older 1.2 starters normally are the thin ones and as coops said the new gen ones are the thinner...

its broken...

common issues other than the previous suggestions are melted connector at the heater panel itself or the rheostat has corroded

close but no cigar!

The charcoal canister stores stray HC's which due to petrols high vapour release which is even higher due to the pump and its return there can be quite a high amount of.

It...

if those compression results are right i.e. over 200 psi then the valve timing is wrong, should have been checked first.