It's all very well using a cheap oil but...................

[oilman]

Cheaper oils are in the long run a false economy, In the first mile the higher volatility, inferior anti-wear performance and poor temperature resistance of a cheap grade of oil will start to show. Obviously, there will be no immediate effects. The whole point of top quality oil is long-term performance retention, which is particularly valuable to people who actually own the car they drive. The ‘performance’ enthusiast will want to retain the new-spec BHP figures, and the cost-conscious will want to see good fuel economy with 100,000 on the clock.

Cheap oil, (particularly 10W/40 or thinner) evaporates quickly, and the vapour is drawn into the combustion chambers via the crankcase ventilation system. This means calcium and zinc oxide deposits (from oil additives) which will cause pre-ignition, so the knock sensor retards the ignition, giving less power and poor fuel economy. The deposits also contaminate the exhaust catalyst, leading to high emissions and MOT failure. How much does an average catalyst box cost these days?!

In most cases synthetic oils (proper ones that is) are the way to go if you intend to keep the car or the car is somewhat special or used hard.

Cheers
Simon

[Tommo]

Hmm don't know if I agree with that Simon. I was using Mobil 1 which is supposed to be one of the best (the price reflects this) and it was the worst oil I have ever used. Burnt off quickly, terrible rattly cold starts and very expensive, how could this be good for an engine?? I now use Shell Helix 10-40 and it is by far the better and half the price! That's my experience anyway!

[Lunner]

Cheaper oils are in the long run a false economy, In the first mile the higher volatility, inferior anti-wear performance and poor temperature resistance of a cheap grade of oil will start to show. Obviously, there will be no immediate effects. The whole point of top quality oil is long-term performance retention, which is particularly valuable to people who actually own the car they drive. The ‘performance’ enthusiast will want to retain the new-spec BHP figures, and the cost-conscious will want to see good fuel economy with 100,000 on the clock.

Cheap oil, (particularly 10W/40 or thinner) evaporates quickly, and the vapour is drawn into the combustion chambers via the crankcase ventilation system. This means calcium and zinc oxide deposits (from oil additives) which will cause pre-ignition, so the knock sensor retards the ignition, giving less power and poor fuel economy. The deposits also contaminate the exhaust catalyst, leading to high emissions and MOT failure. How much does an average catalyst box cost these days?!

In most cases synthetic oils (proper ones that is) are the way to go if you intend to keep the car or the car is somewhat special or used hard.

Cheers
Simon

£30 from Matt Brown :wink:

[Allan]

im using 5w40 fully synth chevron stuff its much better then the other stuff i have used, engine is much smoother now and runs at lower temp when being thrashed. was using elf from renault and then tried mobile 1 and then some castrol stuff but this seems much better. cheep too :)

[tricky]

I'm using ASDA 10w40. Costs £2 for 4.5 litres. lol But i'm trying to bed mny rings in a bit better as the engine is a youngun

[NickFr]

Use the Best Oil and Tyres you can afford :wink:

[BRUN]

Hmm don't know if I agree with that Simon. I was using Mobil 1 which is supposed to be one of the best (the price reflects this) and it was the worst oil I have ever used. Burnt off quickly, terrible rattly cold starts and very expensive, how could this be good for an engine?? I now use Shell Helix 10-40 and it is by far the better and half the price! That's my experience anyway!

if the Mobil burnt off quickly id say your engine may be a little worn, i use a 5W-40 and it hardly uses any, probably 1L every 6k

Shell Helix is a semi synthetic, Mobil 1 a fully, so it isnt better, its probably just that for your engine a 10W-40 may be better, id still be tempted to try a 5W-40 though

[Tommo]

Hmm don't know if I agree with that Simon. I was using Mobil 1 which is supposed to be one of the best (the price reflects this) and it was the worst oil I have ever used. Burnt off quickly, terrible rattly cold starts and very expensive, how could this be good for an engine?? I now use Shell Helix 10-40 and it is by far the better and half the price! That's my experience anyway!

if the Mobil burnt off quickly id say your engine may be a little worn, i use a 5W-40 and it hardly uses any, probably 1L every 6k

Shell Helix is a semi synthetic, Mobil 1 a fully, so it isnt better, its probably just that for your engine a 10W-40 may be better, id still be tempted to try a 5W-40 though

I'm gonna try 5W-40 Shell Helix Ultra next mate and see if it's any better. TBH I'm very pleased with Shell Helix semi, and doesn't burn as quick as the Mobil stuff, about 1 litre every 1000 miles, which according to Nick Hill is about average for these cars. Don't know what it was with Mobil 1 but didn't agree with my car, and used to get about 500 miles to 1 litre!! lol!

[Clio b]

I'm gona b a typical girl an say.... I know how 2 check my oil but aint got a bloody clue wot stuff i put in it last! :D

[Lunner]

Just change it for some nice new, decent stuff then :)

[fab]

My experience with Mobil 1 fully synt is the same as Tommo.topping up all the time.didnt matter if the car was new or old.
But I sure do like the smell of the stuff when the engine was raced.

[Willy 2]

5 litres of Castol GTX Magnatec 15w40 for £18 or so from COSTCO!!! Luv it. Pretty decent too. Wasnt this the stuff they used to advertise in the early nineties for great engine protection from cold.

Mobile 1 5w 40 id say is too thin. If you check the guidance on what ratings for what mileage you'll find that 5 w 40 is for the newer car. And that 10/15 w 40 is for cars with 75k plus on them.

Must be for a reason im guessing.

[tricky]

Yeah, I tend to go to costco too. Very cheap for oil and bosch batteries. Has anyone used mobil1 motorsport 15w50, this may be better at higher temps, less evaporation and also should be a nice compromise between distribution and protection on startup

[Purple]

My very, very scientific method is:
1) Check the tin says "fully synthetic"
2) Pick the "something-40" grade.
3) Pick the cheapest tin with most certification stamps.
4) Put into car and listen for smooth revs.
5) Repeat procedure about every 3000 miles.
Works for me :) :) :)
Use Carlube TripleR, BTW.

[BRUN]

Yeah, I tend to go to costco too. Very cheap for oil and bosch batteries. Has anyone used mobil1 motorsport 15w50, this may be better at higher temps, less evaporation and also should be a nice compromise between distribution and protection on startup

15W-50 is too thick to be using for normal use, it wont protect at start up very well

[BRUN]

5 litres of Castol GTX Magnatec 15w40 for £18 or so from COSTCO!!! Luv it. Pretty decent too.

tappy engine have we ?.........if you have its because of Magnatec, for some reason it doesnt agree with our Renault engines and makes them noisy as hell, i wouldnt advise using it, ever

[VIPERONE]

well i used semi and fully synth on my car and tink its crap.. tappety sounds etc.
mineral oil is the oil that does it for me.. yeah halfords 10 40 in orange .. im reverting back asap.lol. and the temps are lower with it.

[fab]

here can i ask a question?
is 0W40 any use?Fully synthetic.

[oilman]

SHould be fine mate.

And yes 0w oil are synthetic, its the only way they can achieve the viscosity.

Cheers

Guy.