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PhilW
07-01-2017, 20:47
Hi All, I need to ask some mechanical advise from those in the know please.
I'm just about to put the head back on my block and after sussing the job out before just need to check a few points.

1/ I need to get No1 piston into TDC position, however the block is currently in an engine stand so I dont have the benefit of being able to check the flywheel TDC markings and lock accordingly.
I found a paint mark on the front crankshaft pulley and figured that this would need to be positioned at either the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position. At 12 o'clock No1 poston was at bottom dead centre, when the mark was at 6 o'clock the No1 piston was at TDC.
Front crankshaft pulley mark shown below (I added this one so that I could see where it was with the front belt pulley attached. The original mark is on the front face of the front crankshaft pulley).
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8214&stc=1

With the pulley in this position the No1 piston is at TDC as shown below, not sure how clear this image is but the flywheel is to the left timing gear to the right.
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8215&stc=1
Does my thinking make sense?

2/ Camshaft pully timing marks.
The camshaft pulleys have two marks (both pulleys are the same) one is an "indent" in the pulley and next to it is a white mark to the right of the indent.
On the timing cover there is also an indent and next to it a white mark. I feel like I'm answering my own question here but I just want to check the its the "indents" on the pulley that need to be lined up with the indents on the timing cover?

Can someone please confirm or otherwise please?
Have all F7R engines got these two timing marks (as it could be confusing) or is it something particular to my engine?

3/ I also need to tighten up the camshaft pulley bolts tomorrow and I dont have any special tool to do this. I'm going to try using the old timing belt crimped onto a flat bar in ordevto hold the pulley still whilst I put the required 50nm into the bolt.
Does this sound like a suitable method?

First time I have done anything outside of general servicing on an engine, so currently outside my comfort zone.
Any feedback or advise greatefully received 👍

16v_paddy
07-01-2017, 23:06
Ignore all the paint marks as they could be wrong, on the front face of the toothed crank pulley will be a tiny dot, that dot needs to be in the 6 o'clock position for the tdc mark on the flywheel to be in the right place.
Use the indents on the pullies and the cam cover as your reference as they are the factory ones & correct

As for the pulley bolts, 50nm isn't a lot so using a pry bar or big flathead screwdriver to push in the opposite direction to what you're tightening is more than enough to do the trick

PhilW
08-01-2017, 00:03
Ignore all the paint marks as they could be wrong, on the front face of the toothed crank pulley will be a tiny dot, that dot needs to be in the 6 o'clock position for the tdc mark on the flywheel to be in the right place.
Use the indents on the pullies and the cam cover as your reference as they are the factory ones & correct

As for the pulley bolts, 50nm isn't a lot so using a pry bar or big flathead screwdriver to push in the opposite direction to what you're tightening is more than enough to do the trick

Great Paddy, I really appreciate your reply, thanks.
You have confirmed that what I was doing was correct and the tip re the camshaft pullys is spot on, cheers 👍💥

PhilW
08-01-2017, 09:58
Hi Paddy I need to ask a question before I crack on this morning, as I thought about this last night.


I need now to lock the bottom end? But I currently dont have the oil pump and sump in place, so I cannot place it on the floor to get the flywheel on - which seems to be the way the crank is locked.


So my question is, do I leave the crank and pistons as they are (at TDC but unlocked). Put the head back on and torque down, then flip the engine over and put the pump and sump and flywheel back on, lock the crank and then put the timing belt and accessories back on.........or other?

PhilW
08-01-2017, 10:08
I have just read a section in the "Haynes" manual about a way of locking the crankshaft in TDC by removing a plug in the lower front facing side of the engine at the flywheel end and inserting a rod into the crankshaft web.
This is detailed for the F7P engine but I hope that this the same for the F7R, if so, this looks like my answer?

PhilW
08-01-2017, 10:39
Just for completeness I went through my dismantling images and found these of the camshaft pulleys.You can clearly see the white mark next to the indent mark on the pulley, the white mark looks very "Factory". I was pretty sure that I needed to use the indent on the pulley, but you can maybe see why I was questioning myself...
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8216&stc=1

PhilW
08-01-2017, 18:50
Again, just to complete the story and help anyone else looking to lock their crankshaft for timing purposes in the future.
On the front of the engine, near the flywheel, there is a small bolt, remove this and insert a suitably sized tool (In my case a metal drift) one you have the engine at TDC. Please see images below.

Drift inserted into the locking hole in the front of the engine
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8220&stc=1

You can see where the drift has engaged with the slot cut into the crankshaft web. This is different to the balance holes that you can also see on the crankshaft web, if you are in these holes you are not at TDC.
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8221&stc=1

16v_paddy
08-01-2017, 20:03
Looks like you've got it sussed

daljk
10-01-2017, 21:30
Paddy wish I knew what you were talking about being an uneducated civilian as I am


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crossers
21-01-2017, 12:14
I've been neglecting the site since I found the facebook group so I've been missing your posts!

That locking kit is very useful, I'm not sure how you'd do it without.

Paul

PhilW
21-01-2017, 19:57
I've been neglecting the site since I found the facebook group so I've been missing your posts!

That locking kit is very useful, I'm not sure how you'd do it without.

Paul

That "locking kit" is just a metal drift out of a set in my tool box. Always need to have a drift set on standby 😉

Crossers
22-01-2017, 11:22
Haha good work! I used the locking kit for my 182/225 as the bottom end bit is the same. Your solution looks like it was a bit cheaper!

PhilW
22-01-2017, 17:11
Haha good work! I used the locking kit for my 182/225 as the bottom end bit is the same. Your solution looks like it was a bit cheaper!

Yea Paul, at £5 for a pack of 4 I'm pretty sure thry are.
However always good to have the right tool for the job....