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AND2386
16-01-2015, 19:33
Hi I have been Weighing up all my parts that I am replacing with Up Rated Parts on My Clio Williams, so that when I have been looking in to New Performance Parts I can make sure there lighter to as part of the added performance bonus.

I unfortunately never got to weigh some of the items I have all ready and will be replacing.

You are probable thinking why did he not just take the original one and weigh that. I will explain in a minuet lol

So I am after the weights of these items if any one has these.

In KG Please

I am trying to get the weight of all the original size / Brand New Parts that have not yet been touched as for wear on these items will effect the original weight.

Now you may understand why I could not just weigh my old ones as they are shot lol

All must be Standard Parts In KG & for the Brake Parts New Parts Only Please.

1. 1 - Front Vented Brake Disk - KG -

2. 1 - Pair of Front Brake Pads - KG -

3. 1 - Rear Solid Brake Disk - KG -

4. 1 - Pair of Rear Brake Pads - KG -

5. 1 - Front Shock & Spring together - KG -

This Would be much appreciated

Many Thanks

Andrew

fab
19-01-2015, 10:15
I kinda see where your coming from looking at the unsprung weight but I dont see why bother looking at the weight of original versus performance parts. If you use very good performance parts the benefits will far outweigh the weight saving gained or lost.
For example..the brake pads. Pick a CL or other perfrormance brake pad and regardless of weight the CL's will outperform a standard set under intensive/track day driving.
Same again with the shocks and springs. Coilovers are what they are and wether they are lighter or heavier than original, they still will perform better and offer setup options more so than standard.Even if you choose to get coils made up or use lowered coils they will be heavier as the wire diameter is greater.
New brake discs if its any use to you weigh 5kg for the fronts(standard size,vented) and 4kg for the rears(without bearings).
I dont know what your application is for your car so maybe there are others who can chime in and offer some thought/advice.

AND2386
20-01-2015, 02:25
So I thought exactly how you did when I started this Project but I suddenly realized ever Gram & KG Became a massive incite on how much performance I was Gaining. I Have done quite a bit of work on the Car now and have manged to save on quite a bit of weight on so many parts now that I thought it would be good to find out on the parts above as well.

Thank you for the info though & I totally agree with you, ya some performance parts may be heaver but the result is worth it but if they are heavier I just would like to work that out and calculate that extra weigh with the weight I have manged to save on so I can get an idea on the cars overall Weigh and how much I have manged to safely save with out making the car un roadworthy lol.

Many Thanks

AND

fab
22-01-2015, 14:44
The parts that ive seen commonly targeted for weight loss are the wheels and brake calipers.
I believe a set of OZ's offer a good amount of reduction if replacing standards. Finding them can be difficult though.
4pots I'd imagine are lighter than standard calipers. Never really saw anyone mention the nuts and bolts?

Let us know what youve done so far. I'm always interested in lower and lighter:)

16v_paddy
22-01-2015, 21:29
Subframe mounting the engine, lightweight battery, headlight removal (ok not relevant to a road car but I weighed them at the time) & carbon/fibreglass bonnet came to a total of 40kg removed on mine

Converting to manual steering is somewhere around the 15kg mark in weight saving too

fab
23-01-2015, 10:09
Standard engine mount weighs in at 2.2kg. Fast road option 1kg.
Standard Wheels bolts (4) 400grams.Nuts and bolts for strut 300grams.

The willy subframe is double skinned so heavier than the valver one I think?
Would like to know how it feels with the engine mounted to it though:shock:

Paddy any options available for the drive shafts?

AND2386
23-01-2015, 13:07
I looked into changing the Sub Frame but with more power you are going to want strength in the frame, not less as you end up with twisting in the roof metal linening and less overall strength in the frame of the Car. The Rally Maxi Version uses this with a tad bigger anti roll bar as well I think, could be wrong though. I am shore that is the case though.

Head Lights a good one though, just depends on what look you are after and coveting to non power steering sounds good.

Theres a counter balance weight I found as well you can take out, I been a able to save a bit of weight there to. 5.5KG It is.

Thanks for your help though, I have managed to find out nearly all the weights I have been after. I just need to find out the weight of a standed Strut and Spring set up. Then I be on track again on working out where I have hopefully managed to save. Many Thanks AND

fab
23-01-2015, 14:56
I just need to find out the weight of a standed Strut and Spring set up.

6786

:smile:

AND2386
23-01-2015, 15:40
You are a Legend

Thanks for that, I am on the case now on trying work out and sort out a non power steering rack. Any info or pictures any one may have from doing this would be great.

But Thanks for that Fab

16v_paddy
23-01-2015, 19:54
This is the main part of the manual conversion, the brackets needed for the alternator. Quite a common conversion so lots of info & better pics than mine will be on here somewhere


http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq165/16v_paddy/2014/2014-04-23202333_zpsc7b216ea.jpg

As for subframe mounting the engine, all the details are in my project thread http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?42431-Pics-of-the-Irish-Rally-Car/page9 the mounts I'm using do have rubber in them so vibration isn't an issue in the slightest, it's the maxi's & other rally cars that were solidly bolted to the subframe.

On mine you can see that I'm using a plastic cam cover from a megane and that the pulley cover is also gone (being replaced with a plastic 1 from an R19) I was also using 5 engine mounts before switching to subframe mounted so it's all those little things that soon add up

AND2386
23-01-2015, 20:58
Thanks Paddy, loads to look at then when I next get a chance. Just Spoke to Ranault & they said what Clio Standed Steering Rack did you use? For a PAS Convertion?

16v_paddy
23-01-2015, 22:17
Any mk1 clio with non PAS will do as they're all the same, got mine from a 1.2. You also need the steering column as well because the standard 1 wont reach the manual rack. You can get a new manual rack very cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STEERING-RACK-MK1-RENAULT-CLIO-XLR553-FEMALE-ENDS-L-K-/281283609466?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item417dcf437a

AND2386
23-01-2015, 23:53
That's Great Thanks - Will this Steering Colum be OK do you recon? - http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/261741749451?nav=SEARCH

Thanks AND

AND2386
24-01-2015, 00:37
Just Looked at it again and it is a Mk3 one, So I have to try and find one some where else.

16v_paddy
24-01-2015, 00:47
The column will look identical to what's already on your car, only difference is that's it's a little bit longer & you wont actually notice the difference until you put them side by side

AND2386
24-01-2015, 03:26
OK Thanks Paddy

I See what I can find. Will the manual rack you found be OK with Tracking End Rods? Will They fit my Hub?

+ When Taking out the Pump and Parts - Any think I Should Know on, to make a Clean Job of it all.

Pictures are all ways welcome.

LOL Thanks

AND

16v_paddy
24-01-2015, 03:45
+ When Taking out the Pump and Parts - Any think I Should Know on, to make a Clean Job of it all.



Yes, kiss goodbye to most of the skin on your knuckles :lol: I originally did the conversion with the engine removed, the bolts that hod the brackets onto the engine block are a notorious ballache as the only way to get access to them is to have your knuckles perilously close to bits that are sticking out & the bolts are often incredibly tight resulting in lots of brute force to crack them off which inevitably leads to your knuckles making rapid & painful contact with protruding bits of metal




See what I can find. Will the manual rack you found be OK with Tracking End Rods? Will They fit my Hub?



All mk1 track rod ends will fit the hubs, it's having the right kind of track rod ends to fit the track rods that's important. Early valvers & all williams have female track rods with male track rod ends and later valvers & other mk1's have male track rods and female track rod ends. The earlier male track rod end combination is more accommodating for the wider track on the williams

16v_paddy
24-01-2015, 03:48
This should help

http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq165/16v_paddy/2012/Dialogys%20pics/Alternator_zpse9e5db6e.png

AND2386
24-01-2015, 17:54
OK Thanks For that, I am Just after a Column now, Just need to make a phone Call Monday to find out where there is one in stock.

Dose This Steering Rack mach the Rod ends you where talking about for the Wider Track set up on a Williams?

It says its got Female Tie Ends on it so that is right insert it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281283609466?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks

AND

AND2386
24-01-2015, 19:15
Just Found this thread - Am I really going to need to get all these parts to make this Possible?

The Rack and column can be taken from any Mk1 Clio with Non PAS

The brackets can be taken from....

R19 with the F3P / RSi shape engine with no PAS
R5 GTX or Monaco 1.7
Volvo 440 /480 fitted with the F3P shape enigne with no PAS
Some Meganes irrc

Renault Part numbers

7700718613 Plated tensioner bracket - ?
8200031832 Altenator Holder bracket - £44.17 net VAT
7703101094 Altenator long bolt - £3.90 net VAT
7703101073 block bolts x3 - £1.56 net VAT

16v_paddy
24-01-2015, 20:24
The inner tie rods are interchangable and yes those are the brackets you need. You sound put off by it all :lol: it's well worth it, you're replacing 4 brackets, the tensioner and the pump with 2 simple brackets.

You don't need the bolts you've listed as you've already got them :winkey:

These are the brackets needed for subframe mounting the engine

http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq165/16v_paddy/2012/Dialogys%20pics/R5Mounts_zps6c51a7bd.png

AND2386
25-01-2015, 12:28
I am well confused that's why I think I am lost on this, so why do I need brakets to connect the engine to the Subframe?
Like I said I am lost at the moment lol, do you have a before and after picture of the convention by any chance? At the moment I have the Subframe off and the steering rack off and looking at tring to get a hand to do this job with hopfuly some one who can point me in right direction when doing this covertion. Just trying to work it all out my self at the moment so I can get all the right parts before starting the job and realising I am missing a vitile part of the jig saw lol

Thanks

AND

16v_paddy
25-01-2015, 16:05
You need brackets for the mounts to bolt to because the engine will sit on top of the subframe which is completely different to how the engine sits now, here's mine

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10297576_10152518781675972_2594286018041184651_n.j pg?oh=5d949d83ceb7d67a9507a5c42c68d289&oe=555D7A4B&__gda__=1432885278_60d2c08d0d9f84c9d7b4c72ea8241b3 d
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10464394_10152518781875972_6502738449391206419_n.j pg?oh=a8cca0a91cf6435a8540fff268ba658b&oe=55619D1A&__gda__=1433371493_c2d9167fd99512444c3263d2b63a4d9 e

Look at where the dogbone mount is on yours, it goes underneath the subframe & all it does is stop back & forth movement, the bracket for subframe mounting the engine works differently as it goes on top of the subframe and takes the weight of it as well

If you've got the subframe off it couldn't be simpler for the manual rack to be fitted

http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq165/16v_paddy/2013/2013-04-19174916_zpsc45695ef.jpg

AND2386
25-01-2015, 21:08
lol looks to me like I will have to look at selling the new Uprated Dogbone I got and now look at trying to get 3 new engine mounts is that right?

A Mk1 1.2 Clio Steering Rack & Colomn aswell. Is there any think els do you know of that I will need to get?

Thanks for the pics and help by the way.

looking at this where is the Battary mount gone then, do I have to loos that aswell?

Do these mounts have any type of rubber innertween them or is it a solid mount job? Or do I need to call Powerflex for some random rubber mount part lol

If it is a solid mount or partly rubberd in some places how dose this affect the drive?

Sorry for all the question.

Be ten times easyer I recon if we met up lol




http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/webkit-fake-url://8d547db0-9abe-4663-b7a1-ba14c6ef8f18/imagepng

AND2386
25-01-2015, 22:34
I am gussing I need these parts to -
7700718613 (tel:7700718613) Plated tensioner bracket - ?
8200031832 (tel:8200031832) Altenator Holder bracket - ?

AND2386
25-01-2015, 22:38
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/webkit-fake-url://8fa3b94e-7830-4bef-bf9f-a236af0ce53a/imagejpeg So am I right I saying this dose not have PAS but is still on normals engine mounts?

AND2386
25-01-2015, 22:42
http://www.k-tecracing.com/news.asp?b=true&nav=13

AND2386
25-01-2015, 22:49
+ Will I not need these Iteams any more? http://www.k-tecracing.com/search_results.asp Many Thanks AND

16v_paddy
26-01-2015, 06:50
Sorry, I thought I posted a link to the mounts I've got :oops: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-5-GT-Turbo-Vibra-Technics-Full-Race-Kit-/370926478090?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565cf0e30a there's rubber in them so doesn't make it awful or vibrate like hell and yes the battery tray is also gone.

Only other thing you need for the manual steering conversion is a shorter alternator belt 6pk815 will do the trick iirc

AND2386
26-01-2015, 14:39
OK Thanks For The Info. I Be in Touch soon.

Thanks

AND

stevie_b
28-01-2015, 23:36
I have removed over 200kg of weight from my car now. I did write down the weight of every standard part that I removed or replaced and kept a running total but unfortunately mislaid the piece of paper that I had written each individual item on. I'm pretty sure that I haven't lost it and it will turn up one day when I clear out some boxes of parts I have or something and then I can post all the details on here!

I'm running the manual rack too. There are some pictures of the rack on its own, off the car, in my project thread, if that is any help to you?


http://www.k-tecracing.com/news.asp?b=true&nav=13

Thanks for that link - bizarrely I had not seen that write up before on my own car!

AND2386
29-01-2015, 03:36
Hi There

Ya Great Car Mate

Any Help Is all ways welcome

I have a list with all the Weights of all the Stranded Parts and Performance Parts now, as well as Parts that I have taken out as well.

LOL I am after 1 more weight of 1 more item that got thrown away before I got a chance to weigh it lol, its a Standard Cat Back Exhaust System for the Car.

Painful I know, I thought it was just the suspension I did not get but it was the Exhaust as well.

The reason both items did not get weighed up was because they where both broken and both got thrown away before I realized I wanted to weigh them.

A Stranded Clio Williams Cat, Midsection, Mid box, Rear Pipe & Back Box Is the last item of weight I am after to find out.

If you find your list may be you might know lol

Hope you find it lol

Be Great to see.

I never got to put the weight down as the Guy who made up my Stainless Still Custom Exhaust System through it away.

But hopeful I find out at some stage.

The Conversion though is not easy as I am also remounting the Engine & Gear Box as well and am stuck trying to get these R5 GT Turbo Engine & Gear Box Mounts.

http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq165/16v_paddy/2012/Dialogys%20pics/R5Mounts_zps6c51a7bd.png

If You Know Where I can get a set of 3, Please don't hesitate to Point us in the right direction in finding a set.

Many Thanks

AND