the brakes!!

[Dancliovalver]

seem to have a bit of a problem with the old brakin system......GREAT!!
usually its nice n easy, press the pedal lightly and the tar ox discs kick in nicly, but for the duration of today the brake peda has been getting stiffer and stiffer, so checks ma pads and their fine, cheacked the brake fluid and thats at a good level so the only other thing i can think of is the master cylinder :(
can anybody else think of anything that could be wrong?

[Gav]

check the servo dude

[edde]

Have a look at the vacume brake line mine had melted causing my pedla to go hard like I was standing on a rock. Its easy to find remove the heat guard from the manifold and you should see a pipe going from the brake servo unti (the bit with the brake fluid reservior on top) round the back of the engine beding where the exhaust heat cover it round to the intake manifold. If any part of the pipe has a hole you need to replace it. It might have melted like mine has when it had falled on the exhaust manifold.

If you cannot get hold of any new pipe then do as I did and cut away where the damage is and stick some heating pipe used for radiator in as its a good fit and then put some jublille clips on to hole the rubber pipe onto the metal pipe. The meake sure the brake pipe is held on somewhere away from the heat etc.

[Dancliovalver]

cheers for the advice guys, just thought though if there was a whole in the brake lines and the vacuum hose then wouldnt it be loosing brake fluid???
just a though :idea:

[edde]

cheers for the advice guys, just thought though if there was a whole in the brake lines and the vacuum hose then wouldnt it be loosing brake fluid???
just a though :idea:
Nope it just means there no assistance when your pushing the pedal.

[clowo16v]

The servo works by using vacuum from the inlet manifold to create a suction that assists you in pressing the brake pedal. If the hose is split it will not work. Your brakes will still be OK though you'll just have to press them hard.

See ya

Matt

[Dancliovalver]

k cheers matey thansk for the help all of ya!!! which hose is it from the inlet manifold, has been gettin worse and worse all day and really gettin to me coz bin panikin :oops:

[edde]

k cheers matey thansk for the help all of ya!!! which hose is it from the inlet manifold, has been gettin worse and worse all day and really gettin to me coz bin panikin :oops:

Have a look back someone posted a picture up reciently showing where the pipe goes to but its basically from the brake resevior round the back of the heat shield and forwards to near the throttle body is.

[Dancliovalver]

ok matey ill have a look!!!
im sure i saw some stainless steel brake lines a while ago!!
they any good?

[edde]

ok matey ill have a look!!!
im sure i saw some stainless steel brake lines a while ago!!
they any good?
Depends some say they are good some say there not I wouldn't bother chnaging them unless they needed changing.
But the braded hoses are for the one the fluid travle down to the caliper the one I'm on about having a possible hole in is just used to carry a vacume pressure. Any normal brake vacum pipe can be used.

[VIPERONE]

it is the master cylinder .. the valves in side.

When braking, heat is generated. This heat is transferred to the brake fluid. As the temperature increases, the fluid expands. Under normal circumstances, this expanded fluid returns to the master cylinder reservoir. If the expanded fluid cannot return to the reservoir, pressure builds up and applies the brakes; and more heat and more pressure are generated. When the fluid cools down, pressure reduces and the brakes release.

Step 1

With the brakes stuck on, slacken, by two to three threads, the nuts that hold the master cylinder to the servo. Then press and release the brake pedal. If the problem persists proceed to step 2. If the brakes are free after you've done this, the problem lies with the servo or the mechanical links to the pedal. Check that an incorrectly adjusted brake light switch is not holding the pedal on slightly. If the pedal has a link rod to the servo, check that this is well lubricated an moves freely. If the problem is not caused by the brake light switch or by the link rod sticking, it's possible that the link rod or servo push rod have been adjusted incorrectly. Otherwise, the servo is probably faulty.

Note: Just in front of the master cylinder valve seals are small holes; these are compensating ports. With the brake pedal released, the master cylinder pistons should be fully home; otherwise the compensating ports will be blocked by the valve seals.


Step 2

Slacken one pipe at the master cylinder for each circuit in sequence. (Use a rag to stop fluid squirting everywhere because brake fluid works like paint stripper). This will release any pressure in that circuit. If the problem persists proceed to step 3. If the brakes release now, then it's highly probable that the master cylinder seals have swollen through contamination and are blocking the compensating/relief ports.

Step 3

Feel each wheel and start with hottest wheel/brake first. Careful, things will be very hot! Slacken the bleed nipple/s on the caliper or wheel cylinder. If the brakes do not release, proceed to the next hottest wheel and repeat. When the brakes release, the problem is a faulty flexible hose attached to that wheel.

Note: It is not uncommon for the inner wall of a flexible hose to collapse. When this happens, the collapsed wall can act like a one-way valve and can restrict the return of fluid.


Step 4

If the brakes are still stuck on, release the handbrake and start again!


Important: Remember to re-tighten all pipes/unions, nuts/bolts and bleed nipples.


hope this helps...ficking hands are hurting from typing that.