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View Full Version : Torson bar - increments of adjustments ????



Evogone
02-09-2012, 23:12
Im wanting to improve the corner weight of the rallycar but need some height adjustment on the rear (one side only). What level of adjustment do you have will the torson bars ? is it min 20mm increaments of can you get say 5mm increments.

The scales are telling me i need to adjust the right rear weight so need to raise just this corner to correct etc.

Any info welcome....

The rallycar tipped the scales at 914kg (1/3tank fuel)........quite heavey i thought but it done run ali sump guards/tank guard/fully cage/extinguisher system/heavey wide slicks/Willy wheels and handheld ext/fuel swirlpot system etc etc.....but definately potential to dip under 900kgs.

northy
03-09-2012, 15:23
I really struggle with torsion bars - they are either too low or too high. I have never adjusted one to sit just right!

The haynes manual does cover this fairly well if you have a copy

Wobba
03-09-2012, 15:53
There is a way to adjust just one side. It's really hard though as the splines don't line up easily.

Evogone
04-09-2012, 11:51
There is a way to adjust just one side. It's really hard though as the splines don't line up easily.

Need an idiot guide with pic........

arj256
04-09-2012, 20:13
I spent some time trying to get the back end set up as per the Group N Manual.. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/arj256/Clio%20-%20Manual%20de%20Preparacion/
Shame its all in French, but gives a good insight to the set up of the torsion bar etc.

Its not easy, as I found at the ideal measured height, the bar would sometimes go in and then on the other side it wouldn't.
Not sure if there's a sure fire way of getting it in every time, but a little mark on the torsion bar end so you know where the splines originally located. And rotate it spine by spline until it wants to go in. It does eventually work if your lucky.

If that didn't work, maybe levering on the connecting casting in the middle of the torsion bar could aid with the alignment if its being a pain, but it may not flex at all. Never gave that a go, although thinking back it may of helped.

I did ponder if the torsion bar becomes ever so slightly twisted with age, hence why it doesn't go in when it should because the splines are not lined up at both ends of the bar itself.

northy
05-09-2012, 13:32
That is more down the weight of the axle pulling the splines out of alignment arj when you have fitted one torsion bar back in. You need to lift both sides up so they are equal - then when you get one bar in smoothly - the other side will follow.

The middle '8' piece on my car – the splines on the anti roll bar are very big in the indexing. So if you image the '8' rotated so it is touching the axle beam, the next available rotational setting is just above parallel and then the next is as far right image below shows


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/arj256/Clio%20-%20Manual%20de%20Preparacion/GroupNTorsionBarSetupPg4.jpg
When moving this ‘8’ piece it does make the anti roll bars non parallel to the torsion bars

The measurement the manual says is it should be 8mm from touching the axle beam, put the anti roll bars in then clamp the ‘8’ piece down so it touches the axle beam (preloading the anti roll bar) then slide in the torsion bar. I couldn’t get 8mm due to the large spline indexing so I ended up near the middle picture with the torsion bars running parallel to the anti roll bars.


Basically this is my quick guide (a 5mm difference in height is nothing to worry about) Just check your axle isnt bent!

Remove the rear damper from the axle and hold it up out of the way.

Support the axle so no weight is on the torsion bars, pull one side out just enough so the splines are disengaged (check the weight is still off the axle) and pull the other bar out.


Get a helper under the car and watch the splines of the ‘8’ piece. Push the torsion bar back in enough so they are almost engaging into the side of the axle and hold it still - then equally lift / drop the rear wheels and watch that ‘8’ piece rotate as you lift / drop. When the splines look like they are aligned to the torsion bar you push it back in. A little wiggle may help



But you will find it will go from being too low – to being too high. (standard road car height)

Evogone
05-09-2012, 13:53
Thanks its just to improve the corner weights so a 5mm change one side should bring it in. BUT i will check the damper on one side hasent gone off as the gas / compresson of the damper could be the cause of the lack of weight on the rear corner etc.

Guess theres not an english version of the competition book.!

northy
06-09-2012, 08:25
use the haynes manual - that covers it very well.

You wont recover a 5mm difference though mate - from memory its more like a 20mm jump up / down

A&P
06-09-2012, 11:35
Thanks its just to improve the corner weights so a 5mm change one side should bring it in. BUT i will check the damper on one side hasent gone off as the gas / compresson of the damper could be the cause of the lack of weight on the rear corner etc.

Guess theres not an english version of the competition book.!

I have an english version of the cup manual if thats any help. Should give all the info you need mate.

Evogone
06-09-2012, 11:47
use the haynes manual - that covers it very well.

You wont recover a 5mm difference though mate - from memory its more like a 20mm jump up / down

This was in 16valver forum:-

evogone wrote:
Whats the non-" 1 notch method" how to you get and few mm change ? Pics / guide anywhere ? Not clear on how you get the small increments using the 26 splines?


If you pop the torsion bar out, and raise the trailing arm up until you can put the torsion bar back in, with the inner splines in the same position, but the outer splines (in the trailing arm) rotated by one spline, you'll get about 70mm difference in ride height. I learnt this the hard way :oops:

For finer adjustment of the ride height you have to make use of the fact that there are more slines on one end of the torsion bar than the other.

The way I do it is this. Others may have their own method.

Mark the current position of the torsion bar with both ends that it engages. This will serve as your reference.

When you're ready to pull the bar out, jack the trailing arm up to take its weight off of the bar, because its weight will make this job harder. Then pull the bar.

The height you have the trailing arm at will hopefully be at the height at which the bar will easily slide back in to the same position. If not adjust it height wise until it is. This is the reference height.

Now to lower the ride height, raise the trailing arm by the drop you want. To raise the ride height, lower the trailing arm.

Now you put the bar back in. You do this by rotating the bar until it goes in easily. This is where the difference in spline count comes into effect.

kmetek
06-09-2012, 22:48
It is no problem to adjust 4mm, just undo the shock absorber, pull out torsion bar on one side, lift/lower the arm for aprox. 3-5mm, and spin the torsion bar until spindles od both sides match and the bar goes in. Takes a few minutes and is a one man job ;-)

Done it my self 3 times, and is no problem to adjust on 4mm precise.