View Full Version : Camber
Vandella
31-08-2011, 14:13
Hey guys, i had a four wheel alignment yest as my front tyres were getting shredded.. ok..now as far as im aware the times ive had it changed/altered.. the camber has never been right.. it had new stock springs n shocks last year along with new struts..this year its had the rest done..track rod ends, lower balljoints and bushes replaced.. and in an attempt to get the camber back close to where it should be ive bought the camber adjustment bolts.. it made a difference on the drivers side but the passenger side is not playing ball. as u can see on the pic.. the closest the guy could get was what they have both been set too..+0.25' any ideas what could messing this up? suspension not seated properly.. not the correct wide track parts? i get a knock on hard turning but sounds as if that is an mount somewhere.. and not related. (this will be sorted in due course).. also not greatly related to the camber.. i get a grinding/rubbing noise when im turning now..it making for terrible road noise and i can feel it thru the pedals.. wheel bearing perhaps? or poss a warped disc.. its ok when stright but as soon as i start to turn either way i can feel the rubbing/grinding and seems to speed up n slow down with the car..this creates an almost whoom whoom whoom niose..if that helps!! lol. ta chaps!
+0.25 degree camber is wrong, definitely not going to do you any favours.
Pretty much every modern car uses a bit of negative camber on the front wheels. I am surprised they sent you out with that set up? It's wrong, even a novice should know that.
Camber bolts should be in the top bolt hole. You can adjust them to add or reduce camber to a couple of positive or negative degree as far as I can remember, so easily enough to set your car correctly from what I can see of your figures.
As for the rubbing/grinding. Jack the car up, wheels on full lock, rotate the wheels, check for tyres rubbing on arch. If nothing have a visual inspection under the arch and see if you can see anything like rub marks. It could be the CV joint I guess, what direction are you steering when the noise starts?
Also, check which way your steering wheel points when you take the key out of the ignition and click into the steering wheel lock. It should point straight ahead in locked position, if not the the rack is not centred correctly and they'd set the 'straight ahead' wrong when doing your tracking.
Have you fitted new strut top mount bearings, this might affect camber and makes for a much smoother steering feel. I think you have had a lot of work done on your front end? But there must be something strange if the camber bolts cant fix it as im sure wobba reckoned on at least 2 degrees of adjustment on his?
Hi wobba! . . . Beat me to it by 30 sec or so! Lol
Hi wobba! . . . Beat me to it by 30 sec or so! Lol
Hai :D
I wins lol.
Vandella
31-08-2011, 18:29
ok..thanks guys..i will check to see if the bolts are in the right hole.. even with these bolts the guy couldnt get it in any futher on the passenger side .. the drivers side is fine n has no problem getting the correct camber. but he set them both the same..which is the resluts in the pic.
i will check for tyre rub or any rub marks Shortly
As for the top mount bearings.. it had new top mounts when the shocks and springs were put on.. it came as a kit apparently.. would this have included the bearing? it had new bushes n ball joints after..could this have messed it up to start with, as there was abit of play from both bottom ball joints?
The Steering has been centralised..i made sure that was done as it was out and quite disorientating!! the only thing that hasnt been changed altered are the bottom struts n bushes.
Vandella
31-08-2011, 19:34
the rubbing/grinding or what eva the noise is has only got louder/noticable within the last month or so..
If I could poke around the car I could find the problems. The noises are probably a bearing or CV joint.
Have the driveshafts ever been swapped out?
Have a good look at the subframe as well, if bent it may cause an issue.
Vandella
31-08-2011, 20:20
ok i shall have good look cheers mate.. i dont think they have.. i get click as u turn..(full lock) thats the outer cv joint..correct? is there anyway to check or does it have to come off to check it? u southhampton?.. i may make a journey along the coast if i cant get my head around it! put ur noise finding skills to the test! lol :wink: ill kepp it updated n u may hear from me Wobba!
cheers
My old 3 used to click when doing lock to lock too.
A bit confused as to how the bolts can possibly not make a difference, they physically move the top bolt hole inwards, how can that not change it?
I dont believe that they knew what they were doing TBH!
The bolt has a lobe in, and it MUST make a difference, there just isnt any for it not to do so when correctly adjusted.
A bit confused as to how the bolts can possibly not make a difference, they physically move the top bolt hole inwards, how can that not change it?
I dont believe that they knew what they were doing TBH!
The bolt has a lobe in, and it MUST make a difference, there just isnt any for it not to do so when correctly adjusted.
Totally agree.....sound like they dont know what they were doing.....
I think they have made a bit of a difference, but what the guy has done seems to be be set up both sides equal (+.25, as at one point one side was -.7, a better setting).
Camber bolts make a bigger angle impact than half a degree, and if he has done it right then all I can assume is there is a bent or incorrect component fitted which is messing it up.
Years ago before I lost all faith in normal mechanics to go near my car, I let some fit track rods and they managed to fit them wrong (??!!?!?!!!) which caused havoc to my handling. The guy at the tracking pace could NOT get it right.
Vandella
31-08-2011, 23:01
sorry jamie, i meant only on full or very close i get the obligritry click click click.. that happens in most cars yeah?..my mums mondeo does it very loudly!!.. theres an inner one too right..is that the same kinda mechinism.. how do u go about fixing/replacing that..new drifshafts??
I checked there is no signs rubbing anywhere..i dont have anything to get my car up to check for hand spining..will both the wheels turn or just one at a time?
I also went out for a drive this and when the car is straight..its fine. but when i go round any bend be it left or right even a slight bend..mainly/worse when turning left.. and when trying to take a sharpish corner..(that felt fine months ago, is my work route) it feels kinda like im goin ova losts of little bumps and there is a kinda grinding/grating sound like half my pad is in contact or one side is constantly on the disc..
The 'whoom whoom whoom' like noise ive described previously seems to be an exhaust note coupled with the above problem. i just hope thats not another summink to delve into! (i love it really!).
the engine seems to pull fine with no mishaps..so it cant be anything internal...please!? :cry:
Vandella
31-08-2011, 23:03
also..the bolts are in the correct hole! lol
sorry jamie, i meant only on full or very close i get the obligritry click click click.. that happens in most cars yeah?..my mums mondeo does it very loudly!!.. theres an inner one too right..is that the same kinda mechinism.. how do u go about fixing/replacing that..new drifshafts??
I checked there is no signs rubbing anywhere..i dont have anything to get my car up to check for hand spining..will both the wheels turn or just one at a time?
I also went out for a drive this and when the car is straight..its fine. but when i go round any bend be it left or right even a slight bend..mainly/worse when turning left.. and when trying to take a sharpish corner..(that felt fine months ago, is my work route) it feels kinda like im goin ova losts of little bumps and there is a kinda grinding/grating sound like half my pad is in contact or one side is constantly on the disc..
The 'whoom whoom whoom' like noise ive described previously seems to be an exhaust note coupled with the above problem. i just hope thats not another summink to delve into! (i love it really!).
the engine seems to pull fine with no mishaps..so it cant be anything internal...please!? :cry:
Even if the strut was so bent it was 4 degrees positive camber, the bolt should still make more than half a degree difference when fully turned.
Vandella
01-09-2011, 00:25
shouldnt the caster reading be the same? could this indicate to somthing not right too? Also What is/does SAI mean/stand for?
Caster should be roughly the same, but its not unusual to see it vary slightly, there are quite a few components that can have play in them and also when the car has been jacked up and down it can settle slightly differently on the suspension springs, any inclination of the car itself will be transferred onto the caster readings, the changes there arent really enough to indicate a big problem IMHO
SAI is the steering angle inclination, its how far the steering axis is from vertical when viewed from the front of the car, in the same way that caster is steering angle inclination when viewed from the side of the car.
Its effects are kind of similar to caster, what you will often find is that on a FWD car the designers arae limited to how much caster they can give (because of driveshaft angles for example) so they turn to SAI instead to give vehicle stability.
If you google up suspension terms you'll find loads more details than any of us are going to have the time to give here.
One thing to note is that your SAI is higher by a degree on one side than it should be, and lower by a degree on the other side.
Now first reaction to SAI out of spec is normally to think that something is bent, but when its a case of one side is high and the other is low, it normally just means the car bodyshell isnt sitting level relative to the base of the tyres (the floor), ie your car is leaning by 1 degree to the side, this can be corrected by altering your corner heights on the suspension.
When you say the passenger side is not playing ball, it seems the camber prior to adjustment used to be more favourable (-0.2) than it is now. I can only assume the guy has sent you out with equal camber both sides to create some kind of steering consistency...however, I suspect you have a bent part as the SAI on the drivers side is low.
It could be the following, probably drivers side:
Valver/poverty spec driveshaft on drivers side (wrong length)
Bent/incorrect strut
Bent Wishbone (or even very perished bushes) or incorrect length lower balljoint
Bent tie rod end
Bent subframe
Not sure if this is possible but the position of the engine (due to engine mounts) could be so extremely wrong it would make the bias to left and right suspension as seen there, maybe.
When you say the passenger side is not playing ball, it seems the camber prior to adjustment used to be more favourable (-0.2) than it is now. I can only assume the guy has sent you out with equal camber both sides to create some kind of steering consistency...however, I suspect you have a bent part as the SAI on the drivers side is low.
As per my comment above his SAI is high one side and low the other.
If he leant the car over 1 degree, they would both be in tolerance.
Seems more like the car ride heights are wrong to make it lean one degree than that he has managed to bend both sizes by one degree in opposite directions.
It could be the following, probably drivers side:
Valver/poverty spec driveshaft on drivers side (wrong length)
This cannot effect any of the geometry settings, all that will happen is the shaft will knock its tits off and/or pull apart, it wont move the hub around though or anything like that.
Bent/incorrect strut
Bent Wishbone (or even very perished bushes) or incorrect length lower balljoint
Bent tie rod end
Bent subframe
These can all effect its static position but none of them would stop the camber bolts making a larger change than half a degree IMHO
Not sure if this is possible but the position of the engine (due to engine mounts) could be so extremely wrong it would make the bias to left and right suspension as seen there, maybe.[/quote]
Vandella
01-09-2011, 18:59
ahh... right so first things first..would be to get the ride height corrected.. how would u go about this? is it a case of tightnening/loosening the spring?
i was hoping this wouldnt make too much difference but a few years back it was involved in an accident.. rear nearside wheel or above it, was damaged. it was a class c write off, but its not noticable now.
Ii would have thought that if someone had gone to the trouble of replacing /mending this damage they would have checked for bent parts elsewhere.. so maybe i have a bent subframe?? im unaware of how hard the impact was though.
how much is a new/salvaged subframe? matbrown if ur reading?? lol
so what would be the first plan of attack?..get the suspension/ride height sorted.. then ponder over a bent or damaged part?
as for bent/damaged/wrong parts.. ive never had the driveshafts changed..the lower balljoint are defo the right ones.. i may go n measure/check the bottom struts/wishbones. any idea how much of a difference there is between the wide track and a normal clio?
I think i got my side's muddled up by the alignment data sheet! lol
Thanks for all ur help guys!
I WILL GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS!! (with some help!)
Ok, so the driveshaft may not make that kind of difference but the results in the alignment above only tell us a little about the camber correction bolts and the final settings they left it at. They may have made a bigger difference (more than half a degree, at least on one side) but we were not there to see it.
Can we see a picture of the ride height on both front wheels please? And a head on picture with the car on level ground, at bumper height?
Vandella
02-09-2011, 18:30
sure can mate! ill try n get em up 2nite!
I was thinking.. this other problem im having... has been worse (noise n feel wise) since i had my clutch replaced.. could the whoom whoom noise ive tried to describe infact be a noise produced by car n engine if the mounts were shot to s**t? maybe im trying to make this the problem..lol but if the engine is not stable..it will make a wobbling (whoom) noise thru the exhaust as its rocking in the bay.... kinda as chip was suggesting n that then if this is the case; that the mounts are that knackerd that the driveshats are not coming out the gearbox straight n not giving me enuff length (thats what the missus always says anyway...whey) or its not sitting right to give the correct camber... could this also affect the SAI do u think?
hopefully one problem fix fixes them all!
Vandella
03-09-2011, 18:51
can anyone tell me where i can get both the upper front engine mount and or bush and also the same for the gearbox mount too.. i can only seem to find the dogbone mount on t'internet. ta muchly
Pics will be up tonite wobba
Ok, so the driveshaft may not make that kind of difference but the results in the alignment above only tell us a little about the camber correction bolts and the final settings they left it at. They may have made a bigger difference (more than half a degree, at least on one side) but we were not there to see it.
Can we see a picture of the ride height on both front wheels please? And a head on picture with the car on level ground, at bumper height?
Are you hoping to spot a 1 degree incline in a picture?
Vandella
03-09-2011, 22:02
here's the pics u asked for! and a few more!! apart from the problem..the wheels are still sweet n paintwork n arches r good!!!..
Vandella
03-09-2011, 22:09
I think you have had a lot of work done on your front end?
Very Much so..
It doesn't even look Widetracked to me, probably Valver running gear with Williams shocks or something...
zmaster2k
04-09-2011, 08:24
Agree ^^
MatBrown
04-09-2011, 08:32
Get a picture of where the ARB meets the wishbone then.
It doesn't even look Widetracked to me, probably Valver running gear with Williams shocks or something...
I agree. This is not widetrack and to me it looks a bit high, but I am used to my uber low front so it may just be me.
Thanks for the pics, I think we can all see the problem.
I will try and dig out a pic of OEM height and width...
This is the my Williams when I first got it. It shows the stock ride height and highlights how the wider track of the Willy is quite a lot more prominent than the valver in the background (the valver was lowered -35mm)
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Williams%20217/DSCF0021.jpg
Valver in foregound:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Williams%20217/DSCF00151.jpg
A head on pic, see the tyres almost bursting out at the sides? I think it's on coilovers so lower than normal here:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Williams%20217/DSCF0236.jpg
Get a picture of where the ARB meets the wishbone then.
^^^
This is your next mission. You can probably shove your hand under the front arch with a camera rather than jack it up.
Vandella
04-09-2011, 12:42
ok...That sounds like a bit of a bummer then..which would be the better angle to take the pic of the arb? underneath or over the top of the tyre?
Vandella
04-09-2011, 12:44
same angle as wobba's n i can see the difference.. :-(
Take a picture under the tyre/car.
Vandella
04-09-2011, 13:04
.......
Yep there it is! :lol: Valver ARB, you can recognise by the how the ARB meets wishbone. It bolts through.
Don't worry, it's good to be able to make a start on actually solving your problem. Once it's sorted you will never look back ;)
This is an old pic of a valver with yellow uprated ARB bushes. The Williams has a different ARB and bush. It's bolted into the wishbone there:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/My%2016V/DSC00451.jpg
Get your hand under there and get a pic. With normal ride height it wont be hard.
Have you got the old receipt for the shock absorbers, a part number would be great.
Vandella
04-09-2011, 13:34
....
Vandella
04-09-2011, 13:36
R 7700838095 - Shock Absorber
R 7700817986 - Coil Spring
I checked the part number for the shock absorber, it is the right one so that's good.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Technical/ARB.jpg
The above shows a Valver ARB, but item number 2 shows the one you need, without a hole in the end. Also, at the bottom you can see the bushes you have. They are valver spec. The bits you need are 9, 10, 11 & 12.
The wishbones are incorrect. You can use R19 wishbones like here instead:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FCA5890-WISHBONE-LH-Renault-19-16v-2-89-/150653622515?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2313a7d8f3
..or pay the big cash for Willy ones from Renault. The R19 ones add a bit of caster, which is fine.
It could be the driveshafts are also wrong. Be warned, new ones are expensive, so buying the stuff you need as a bulk buy from Mat Brown including driveshafts would be a good idea to keep costs down.
Fitting it all can be a bit time consuming but is straight forward. Whereabouts are you based?
This track rod/tie rod looks wrong. The rod end is almost completely wound in, not sure if that's right? I use different ones so it's hard for me to say.
This track rod/tie rod looks wrong. The rod end is almost completely wound in, not sure if that's right? I use different ones so it's hard for me to say.
Doh forgot pic:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Technical/imag0215_409.jpg
Vandella
04-09-2011, 14:08
Right..ok.. Thanks wobba. im about ten mins away from Eastbourne. ok would it be an idea to get the lot, then replace bits as i need it? incase i get driveshafts and they are the right ones..spose i could always sell them again... but the arb is defo wrong.and the wishbones. where would items 9,10,11,12 go.. on the wishbone?
As for the track rod being wound in..if the steering rack was the right part for the car (do they vary?)..lol then it wouldnt have to stick out that far as its not widetracked. if that made sense.
so. worse comes to worse and its mostly valver spec (for some silly reason) i will need the following:
ARB
Wishbones
Parts 9,10,11,12 -dialogys
driveshafts?
anything else?
I know the bottom ball jointsa are the right ones as i got them.
Im glad about the suspension!! this was done shortly before i bought the car.
The ARB is something that's not too hard to get, a few come up here for sale or can be found off people breaking their Williams.
The bushes themselves are cheap as chips, the bits that clamp them on is easy as well and cheap, you don't need new ones.
If you look at the R19 wishbone on that ebay link, you can see there is like a little rectangle where the end of the clamp hooks in. It's really easy to fit.
The ARB itself may be a bitch though as the inner ARB bushes can be a total c*nt to clamp on lol. You may as well get new inner ARB bushes as well, they are cheap.
You can get inner track rods and ends cheap too. The proper willy ones are hard to find, so I have just used valver ones I think and wound out the rod ends further. Removing the old track rods is a hard job normally, but I found a special tool to do them so its easy now ;)
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Suspension%202011/DSCF0619.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Suspension%202011/DSCF0615.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Suspension%202011/DSCF0616.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Suspension%202011/DSCF0617.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w102/barneywobba/Suspension%202011/DSCF0618.jpg
Mat may not have any shafts spare at the moment, but from this thread he can tell you what you need and give you a price :)
It may be hard to see if the driveshaft/s is/are wrong so you could just forget them for the time being and go for the other bits first and see if it cures it.
Vandella
04-09-2011, 14:30
ah..diamond geezer! ok hopefully mat will give me some good news!! if i can get all the parts, would u fancy earning some dosh to help me fit? as i cant seem to find anyone around who knows these cars!!! ill come to you
ah..diamond geezer! ok hopefully mat will give me some good news!! if i can get all the parts, would u fancy earning some dosh to help me fit? as i cant seem to find anyone around who knows these cars!!! ill come to you
I'm sure we can work something out. Inner ARB's are the hardest bit, I hate them! I am looking after my dear old gran at the moment and although she wont mind another Williams here there's not much room. I can probably just chuck some tools in the car and come to you.
Vandella
04-09-2011, 15:02
ahh bless u mate! will be a couple hrs drive maybe. obvoiusly ill sort fuel money n any other costs! ok well ill keep u informed as to when i hear/can get the bits! cheers Wobba
Vandella
04-09-2011, 15:04
apart from the parts..what would u need me to have.. tools/stands etc?
Vandella
04-09-2011, 15:13
evogone has a wide track setup.. that be a good choice?
MatBrown
04-09-2011, 17:08
This track rod/tie rod looks wrong. The rod end is almost completely wound in, not sure if that's right? I use different ones so it's hard for me to say.
Probably cos they have tried to wind a williams rack into 16v width.
fabulicious
04-09-2011, 19:04
For your shocks check if there is a little white paint mark on them. Williams ones do. That number you have there does not correspond to anything on my receipt so not sure what its from. Some 19 no doubht.
Minichapperz
04-09-2011, 19:10
*hijack
wobba where did you get that tool from for the track rods, i can do with one of them for work :P
This track rod/tie rod looks wrong. The rod end is almost completely wound in, not sure if that's right? I use different ones so it's hard for me to say.
Probably cos they have tried to wind a williams rack into 16v width.
Yea maybe.
Fab, I checked diaologys for the shocks and the part is the same as Williams strut part number.
Cant remember where I got the tool from, I probably linked it here somewhere in the past.
fabulicious
05-09-2011, 08:22
sorry wobba meant to say springs :oops: the shock number is correct.
Get a set of R19 arms, you can get them for under 40 quid a pair if you shop around, they give more castor as well as the extra track, so area better than the williams verison IMHO
Vandella
05-09-2011, 17:31
is there any way of telling if i have valver driveshafts? is there a difference in diameter of any of it? i was thinking..if i have willy driveshafts and valver wishbones and arb. would this not be squashing to an effect the driveshafts? and as i have adjustable camber bolts sqeezing as much as poss out of them that its making this problem/scenario worse? or not doing it much good....?
MatBrown
05-09-2011, 22:42
Main way of telling the difference is the length.
fabulicious
06-09-2011, 08:56
At this stage is would not surprise me if you have a valver subframe fitted in there also. yeah there the same size as the willy, reportedly, but single skinned.
Still not sure where you want to be with this car mate. Do you want to run it on standard setup?
The way I see it you have two options.
Hook up with someone who has or knows a willly inside out and figure out the parts that need correcting
or
Strip it down and post us the pics of all the parts and take it from there.
Wonder if it has had a massive front end impact and thats why the entire subframe and suspension off a lesser model were fitted?
Vandella
06-09-2011, 11:47
Fab - id like to run it on standard setup, just want to get it back to how it should be...before/if i start to uprate different bits.
ive been trying to find someone who can help around my way but i cant seem to find anyone local..nearest person/people on here i think is wobba and leigh anne in southhampton. as for the valver subframe..i dont know..what do u mean by single skinned (sorry if it sounds like a silly question). im hoping its just the roll bar and wishbones that need replacing! although paul16v has a subframe in good nick so ill think ill b having that too as mine has seen better days.
the only impact/accident that it has had was on the rear nearside quater, and i dont think/hope that it wasnt that big of an impact to create damage/warping/twisting anywhere else. and as fare as im aware the new suspension parts are the right bits!
fabulicious
06-09-2011, 12:56
OK understood.
There's no point ftting worn out parts (even if they are correct parts) at this stage. You may aswell freshen everything up, and by that I mean any rubber parts such as rubber on the roll bar, or wishbones. Take a look at your bottom ball joints also and sure if your taking the subframe out get the steering rack over-hauled also.
Also if the subframe is the correct one then get it power-coated and resprayed nicely.
It takes time but you will get there. Dont worry so much about shocks and springs as you may go for a nice set of coilovers in the future. And get rid of the camber bolts you wont need them if you get adjustable top-mounts like those little devils around here :lol:
Vandella
06-09-2011, 14:42
haha.. i get ya! i think what im guna do is get the subframe of paul, get new wishbones and a new roll bar with all new rubbers/bushes (so i know they havnt been put under stress) and when i have my old frame out..probably get that freshned up at a later date
just wondering if itll be best to go with stock bushes or get stiffer ones.. powerflex is it? how would i go about getting the steering re-hauled? i know that the inner ball joints have a bit of play..are they hard to get hold of? is it just the inner track rod? do they unscrew of the rack?
the lower ball joints on the wishbones i had put on not so long ago (couple months)..i know there willy ones.. could the setup i have atm have put them under alot of stress u think?
Vandella
06-09-2011, 15:43
also..if i have normal willy drivehafts..and not the wide track..what problems if any would/should this cause.. and if i replace the widetrack and i have infact valver driveshafts..would they fit atall? im know mat said they are different lengths but is it enuff to not drive using them? this thread must be annoying by now surely! lol :oops:
If you have valver shafts and you put willy track on it then you will pop apart the outer cv joints.
fabulicious
06-09-2011, 18:06
this thread must be annoying by now surely!:
So long as you come back and let us know it's all sorted then were happy :wink:
this thread must be annoying by now surely!:
So long as you come back and let us know it's all sorted then were happy :wink:
If people find posts like this annoying they are on the wrong forum!
We will get it sorted, just may need some willy shafts that's all.
MatBrown
11-09-2011, 11:02
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250889082321?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Near me so can collect for you if need be.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250889082321?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Near me so can collect for you if need be.
Haha spotted those half an hour ago! Thanks Mat.
Vandella
11-09-2011, 11:49
cheers guys! im on the case!!
fabulicious
11-09-2011, 14:43
this thread must be annoying by now surely!:
So long as you come back and let us know it's all sorted then were happy :wink:
If people find posts like this annoying they are on the wrong forum!
We will get it sorted, just may need some willy shafts that's all.
whats annoying is people who come looking for solutions, create a thread, and dont ever get back to let us (or people would use the search function in the future) that they resolved the problem with the advice given.
check the history, lots and lots of junk threads.
Vandella
13-09-2011, 15:53
hey guys..to clear up the weird whoom whoom noise i was expiriencing.. it was the bearing on the drivers side..so bad that on side had split in two! me mate reckons it wasnt put in there properly to start with..as i have always expeirenced this noise! i would like to report that she is super smooth now! and i only get the engine and zorst sound!!! sweeeeeet! although got a £60 fine for no mot earlier!!! whoooops! Im just waiting for parts to asrrive to get my widetrack and camber issue sorted! i will keep u updated!
Dan
robi1000
13-09-2011, 16:00
£60 fine for no mot?!? Whoa, UK is cheap. Here in Slovenia fine is 500€ + car impound. :shock:
Vandella
13-09-2011, 16:08
i did flutter my eyelashes abit!..maybe i was lucky then!
Vandella
14-09-2011, 16:25
sum new bits!!
Vandella
14-09-2011, 16:33
Random Piccy of my ecu
Hehe, cool, all coming together then! I love new shiny parts :)
Just fitted two new wishbones to my car today actually. Sharpened the front up nicely! Tracking is out now, but I can adjust it to near enough what I want myself.
Get an MOT! :)
Std or 19 Wobba and how much diff did it make. . . ? Expect my bushes are a bit soft now. :D
Vandella
15-09-2011, 19:26
I Won the driveshafts off ebay! hooray for me! hopefully i can take matbrown up on his offer of collecting and posting to me!! cat might be here by tomorow if im lucky then get the yearly healthcheck done on her. then wishbones and hopefully a friendly face to help fit it all!!
Vandella
16-09-2011, 16:00
Me Agaian Guys! just wondering if there was a part number for the kangoo inner track rods as i think ill be replacing mine at the same time as sorting the rest out! or a link to the correct would be amazing!! thanks
Vandella
16-09-2011, 17:55
would it be these ones?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inner-Tie-Track-Rod-Renault-Kangoo-99-08-Opt1-2-/160456632788
http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41724
:wink:
http://www.wanapart.co.uk/Suspension-Front-Steering-&-Suspension-RENAULT-CLIO-%3F-%28B/C57_-5/357_%29%3Cbr%3E1990/5-1998/9-Williams-%28B/C57M%29%3Cbr%3EPetrol%3Cbr%3EHatchback%3Cbr%3E108-Kw%3Cbr%3E147-HP%3Cbr%3E1994/1-1998/9/c54_35_4056456_4056667_4056712/index.html
Various items there, and it may be worth getting new gaiters if doing inner rods as it's easy to damage them when replacing the rods, especially if they are old.
Note that the Kangoo ones may need different outer track rods as well as the inner Kangoo ones are male, not female like most Willy rods :)
Vandella
17-09-2011, 12:34
That rod assembly on that website... would they b ok, or would it be better to get genuine/Renault Bits?
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