View Full Version : horse sh*t idle
ratboyvalver
28-07-2011, 19:15
as above on cold start, idles lovely but when warm idle drops to 400rpm ges lumpy then revs up to 1500rpm then drops to 1000rpm then falls to 400rpm and so on. checked tps for resistance its all ok. checked all earths. any other ideas ?
like this ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDkwpG3oSsM
ratboyvalver
28-07-2011, 20:17
bang on mate same problemo
robi1000
28-07-2011, 20:27
Faulty lambda?
ratboyvalver
28-07-2011, 20:32
its got a brand new one :(
bang on mate same problemo
i have suffered this for ages and still cant pin point what it is .
Few things i have figure out all this time :
- Engine will eventually die unless you keep idle high by foot.
when the low idle kicks in when in gear on the road ,seperating the clutch quickly and tapping the gas seems to help avoid jerking /kangooroing .
- It usually happens in/after rainy/humid weather only , when its nice and dry it does not happen on my car . When the engine temp reaches the first line (usually after 5 mins after start up) it goes away . Makes me think something under the bonnet is getting wet/humid and dries off after a while !!!!
- I still suspect the throttle position sensor and i yet to put another throttle body on there .
-I have got a brand new yess fokkn brand new speedo cable and lambda on it and its still does this .so basicly these 2 are pretty much unrelated .
-My 9 with f7r does this but my 19 16v wont :shock:
Smokey McPot
29-07-2011, 10:51
Mine is doing this too.
Spray brake cleaner around the inlet manifold ports and the tb if the idle drops or goes higher you havea vacuum leak
ratboyvalver
20-08-2011, 20:24
right replaced injector 'o' rings all vacuum hoses still same problem got inlet manifold gasket on order. all whats left after all of this is the brake servo vacuum hose
A friend of mine had the same problem some years ago. He replaced more sensors but it could not help... until he changed the knock / pinking sensor.
ratboyvalver
21-08-2011, 19:02
only thing is. is that this engine used to run fine before i had inlet powder coated since it was in the last car. so confused :(
sclark2604
06-11-2011, 18:52
whats the pinking sensor???? do you have a part number...?
16v_paddy
06-11-2011, 22:14
whats the pinking sensor???? do you have a part number...?
It's the knock sensor & it's screwed into the head at the bottom of the inlet manifold. Part number is 82 00 680 689 :wink:
Ok i have not had this for the last 10 days :shock: :shock:
It has got to be down to the Wynns injector system cleaner i banged in there 2 weeks ago or so .
Have a go and let us know if it helps you as well .
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=90782&Referrer=froogle
it was not to do with fuel system cleaner as it was back on day 14 or so .
Anyone managed to fix this yet ??
Mine recently started doing it when the engine is hot as well .
I will try a new knock sensor .
mine has exactly same problem, but also misfires when you first apply accelerator in any gear, misfires so bad for a second or so that it will jump out of gear unless held in, ive changed everything bar the knock sensor so sounds like that could be the gremlin!
I will report back once i changed the knock sensor which should be in the next couple of days . 8)
Is it something like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4TCgIZvntQ
what car is that ?? :shock:
sideways danny
02-01-2012, 16:17
its got a brand new one :(
good one or cheap one with the wires soldered/crimped?
any damage to the wires on the TPS? I've seen them look ok with a multimeter, but start the engine and the signal goes mental (using standalone so you can see feedback)
left a nut loose that holds the inlet on? or has the powdercoating warped the flange?
Smokey McPot
02-01-2012, 19:52
Mines been fine since I put a new battery in....
It 's a megane f7r
Mine does not go up to 2000 rpm or that quick in that respect .
Yours look like you are doing it on purpose :D
The problem in mine was that when i was reving it it was dying.I removed the egr valve on the inlet manifold,gave it a good clean and after that is fine.
The problem in mine was that when i was reving it it was dying.I removed the egr valve on the inlet manifold,gave it a good clean and after that is fine.
ratboyvalver
04-01-2012, 15:05
I solved mine by starting the car and adjusting the tps until it idled right mine had vibrated loose prob due to my stiff engine mounts I've got vibrate technics upper and gearbox mount, r19 gearbox mount, foxy 5th mount and polybushed dogbone, also got a engine damper onthere. So car does vibrate quite abit lol plus lumpy cammed idle makes it vibrate bit more lol
before you adjusted it did it have a slight misfire under initial acceleration then clean up after a second or so?
dannyboy3767
13-01-2012, 19:37
I have a willy 3 and it was doing the same, after alot of new parts it turned out to be part of the ecu had burnt out. I took it apart and could see straight away where it it had burnt out.
I have a willy 3 and it was doing the same, after alot of new parts it turned out to be part of the ecu had burnt out. I took it apart and could see straight away where it it had burnt out.
Any chance of a picture of the burnt bit on the ecu mate ?
I solved mine by starting the car and adjusting the tps until it idled right mine had vibrated loose prob due to my stiff engine mounts I've got vibrate technics upper and gearbox mount, r19 gearbox mount, foxy 5th mount and polybushed dogbone, also got a engine damper onthere. So car does vibrate quite abit lol plus lumpy cammed idle makes it vibrate bit more lol
Is it still working fine mate ?
ratboyvalver
24-01-2012, 19:08
Indeed it did fella :-) also check icsv
Indeed it did fella :-) also check icsv
Nice one .
I am not so hopefull but will deffo give this a shot .
ratboyvalver
24-01-2012, 22:06
My icsv connector was loose making it idle high then stall
dannyboy3767
27-01-2012, 23:52
Did you find the problem, havent been on in a while ill try send you a pic of the ECU if you still want it. THe car runs fine its just crap idle when cold
Did you find the problem, havent been on in a while ill try send you a pic of the ECU if you still want it. THe car runs fine its just crap idle when cold
Still have this problem but i have not changed anything as yet .
Had it this morning only for 3 minutes than she ran fine all the way .
Some days she runs like this even when warm now .
But there are so many little bits i have to fix with my car when i can find the chance to pull it off the road . One of manifold (log) to downpipe studs have snapped god knows when which is probably not helpin either.
I would appreciate the pic of ecu to see where it was burnt .
Are you still using the burnt ecu ? There are companies such as ecu doctor which might be able to fix it for you .
fabulicious
28-01-2012, 13:44
as above on cold start, idles lovely but when warm idle drops to 400rpm ges lumpy then revs up to 1500rpm then drops to 1000rpm then falls to 400rpm and so on. checked tps for resistance its all ok. checked all earths. any other ideas ?
Damp or water. Nothing else. Which component I have no idea but my guess is it's something pretty down low on the car body/engine..such as lambda.
Reason I say this..I never had this problem before and on the night of the flood when I drove the car out of the garage mine started doing exactly as the youtube vid of schak's above.
Thereafter the garage had been damp for a while and the car kept doing it. After I saw sense and installed a de-humidifier the problem went away.
And just to prove the point, the other day I was jetting out the heater matrix and water was gushing out of the pipes onto the lambda plug and OR knock sensor the problem has come back!
I will let the car sit in the garage with the de-humidifier on for a week (AND NOT TAMPER WITH ANYTHING) and let you's know if it comes back.
These cars hate the british weather!
as above on cold start, idles lovely but when warm idle drops to 400rpm ges lumpy then revs up to 1500rpm then drops to 1000rpm then falls to 400rpm and so on. checked tps for resistance its all ok. checked all earths. any other ideas ?
Damp or water. Nothing else. Which component I have no idea but my guess is it's something pretty down low on the car body/engine..such as lambda.
Reason I say this..I never had this problem before and on the night of the flood when I drove the car out of the garage mine started doing exactly as the youtube vid of schak's above.
Thereafter the garage had been damp for a while and the car kept doing it. After I saw sense and installed a de-humidifier the problem went away.
And just to prove the point, the other day I was jetting out the heater matrix and water was gushing out of the pipes onto the lambda plug and OR knock sensor the problem has come back!
I will let the car sit in the garage with the de-humidifier on for a week (AND NOT TAMPER WITH ANYTHING) and let you's know if it comes back.
These cars hate the british weather!
My gut feeling says excatly the same thing , something gets damp and once it warms up an dries its fine again .
Also the amount of extra white smoke coming off the exhaust (while driving ) during the stalling / low rpm cycle makes me think its lacking IGNITION rather than FUEL or AIR !!
By sheer coincidence my Willy 3 has started to do the same (idles at 1400 once it has warmed up, but when cold it cuts out at the first few junctions I come to) but instead of fannying on looking for the fault I'm going to take it to a garage for them to find the fault, then fix it. It's a damn sight cheaper than chasing the problem yourself and replacing parts unnecessarily just because you don't want to spend the money at a garage.
Just my 2p.
By sheer coincidence my Willy 3 has started to do the same (idles at 1400 once it has warmed up, but when cold it cuts out at the first few junctions I come to) but instead of fannying on looking for the fault I'm going to take it to a garage for them to find the fault, then fix it. It's a damn sight cheaper than chasing the problem yourself and replacing parts unnecessarily just because you don't want to spend the money at a garage.
Just my 2p.
You think its that easy and we are all tight cnuts who are trying to avoid spending a couple of quid on a diagnostic machine ??
Dying see how far you will get with the garage fixing it for you . lol
You think its that easy and we are all tight cnuts who are trying to avoid spending a couple of quid on a diagnostic machine ??
No that is not was I was eluding to. I was merely stating that in some cases it might be cheaper to take it to a garage rather than DIY and spend money on replacing parts which don't need to be replaced.
Dying see how far you will get with the garage fixing it for you . lol
Well it goes in next week for this, and a few other things so I'm happy to report back if you like?
I may have touched a nerve with you, however that was not my intention so in future I'd recommend you counting to 5 before you post next time so as to avoid you coming across as a petulant child.
You are the one that got emotional claiming your are the most clever around here and no one else thought of taking it to a garage to have it looked at .
For the record ,people have been on diagnostics regarding this and none of them came back with any solid answers so far . So unless your magic garage has got a cyrstal ball ,i have just saved you monies.
But yeah you are right, i dont want this turning into a dummy spatting thread so less of the quotes please . If you have not got anything positive to say and all that ...
You are the one that got emotional claiming your are the most clever around here and no one else thought of taking it to a garage to have it looked at .
Re-read my first post. I even added at the bottom that it was purely "my 2p", which I am entitled to. I did not claim to be the most clever around. Far from it. The knowledge on here it second to none and I am merely trying to get an understanding of the Clio Williams and how it works.
For the record ,people have been on diagnostics regarding this and none of them came back with any solid answers so far . So unless your magic garage has got a cyrstal ball ,i have just saved you monies.
I can't see anywhere on this thread which says that anyone has checked the diagnostics or even been to a garage for them to diagnose the problem. I'm not saying anyone is in the wrong, I was, again, just stating my opinion
But yeah you are right, i dont want this turning into a dummy spatting thread so less of the quotes please
Less of the quotes? I am using the 'quote' button as many people do. (I don't think I get you here)
If you have not got anything positive to say and all that ...
I haven't said anything negative (again I don't get you here), only my opinion.
I think you should just leave it. You are reading too much in to my posts, and getting the wrong idea.
fabulicious
28-01-2012, 20:00
By sheer coincidence my Willy 3 has started to do the same (idles at 1400 once it has warmed up, but when cold it cuts out at the first few junctions I come to) but instead of fannying on looking for the fault I'm going to take it to a garage for them to find the fault, then fix it. It's a damn sight cheaper than chasing the problem yourself and replacing parts unnecessarily just because you don't want to spend the money at a garage.
Just my 2p.
This is a very different problem to what Schaks has or I have experienced.
p4cks you can take it to renault if you like just as I did for the speedo cable/pin issue you have. And they put it on a diagnostic machine and charged me £40. Did they find the answer?? No.
I gave you the solution as myself and the others on this thread have given to schaks.
Just be careful about jumping onto threads!!!
When I said 'garage', I didn't mean Renault. I'd never take my car there! :lol:
fabulicious
28-01-2012, 20:39
8) No bother.
Just remember these lads are tuners/engine builders. They can guide you to what the issue problem may be but it's only through the experience of members from the past and present that we can share the knowledge and help the new lads such as yourself out.
Some task's are easier than others. If your not technically minded or even mechanically minded then the best bet is a mechanic. But at least you can go there with some knowledge so they don't try rip you off.
I dont believe for one minute the line "use common sense". Common is something that you do day in day out such as your own work or going to the petrol station to fill up the tank.
Common IS NOT fixing/repairing older cars if it is not your job or lifetime hobby.
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