View Full Version : Ile question F7p engine with 5 GTT box
Just a quick query really I have done an F7p turbo conversion into my r5gtt and after a long drive yesterday eve i noticed the idle was high at 2k rpm. When I start the car she idles at 1k perfect, I have been advised this is down to some kind of speedo pic up of the valver box? is there a way to bypass this to enable me to maintain the 1k rpm idle after a lomng drive?
Cheers james
The speedo cable on an 16v/willy has a feedback pickup. I have the same problem with my 9.
I haven't bothered searching how to resolve it and just turn the key over once to reset the ecu (sometimes resulting in a loud bang :D )
But i guess some tuner (henk from fastchip for example) will be able to shut it off or something...
is this nothing to do with the sheel speed sensor>? normally an additional earth on the speedo cable plug solves this.
The speedo cable on an 16v/willy has a feedback pickup. I have the same problem with my 9.
I haven't bothered searching how to resolve it and just turn the key over once to reset the ecu (sometimes resulting in a loud bang :D )
But i guess some tuner (henk from fastchip for example) will be able to shut it off or something...
My ECU is a Henk fastchips one and it idles 1krpm when sat still and revved when stationary even when revs held high for a while then dropped it idles @ 1k, it only does it after a drive.
I wouldn't normally mind but having a 2.5" side exit it's pretty loud sitting in traffic whilst it's doing this, as if the 5 doesn't get enough attention as it is :lol:
is this nothing to do with the sheel speed sensor>? normally an additional earth on the speedo cable plug solves this.
Tell me some more :D so I just need to find the earth wire on the speedo cable and run it straight to a ground point itself then.
your current speedo cable has nothing to do with the ecu....
i know it's a chip from Henk but it's designed for a clio and not for a F engine in a 5
your current speedo cable has nothing to do with the ecu....
i know it's a chip from Henk but it's designed for a clio and not for a F engine in a 5
Yeah I know it's nothing to do with the clio on the cable but if i can find the correct pin from the ECU and ground it I should be able to ressolve it as it's annoying and very very loud :lol:
I have tried to ground the right wire (have to check which one it is) but then it idles 2000rpm instantly :roll:
Right just to keep you guys posted, don't ground pin 3 signal to the ECU :shock: smoke and possible fire would be your outcome. I almost had this but luckily that was only as i put the battery on.
Car runs fine and no damage, so the only options to cure this are to some how get a VSS signal to the ecu via some kind of emulator, someone to access ECU and disable the VSS, use valver box + cables + clocks but may need more wiring for interior loom, or go standalone.
Well been given some advice from peeps whom have done the conversion before over on RTOC and they have said I need to remove the ICV and block it up and adjust the Throttle body itself to compensate for the idle level so I assume the TB has an idle screw that can be adjusted to set the idle speed / level?
That's correct. Someone here in holland did the same to eliminate the idle problems he had...
I wonder how it will respond with temp differences though.
That's correct. Someone here in holland did the same to eliminate the idle problems he had...
I wonder how it will respond with temp differences though.
That's good news it works I am sure I can live with a slightly lumpy cold idle for the sake of getting a decent 1k or under warm idle
If you set it to about 1200 when warm, it should just about cope from cold without needing you to blip the throttle too much.
Fitting mappable management would be the better option in the long run though if funds permit.
If you set it to about 1200 when warm, it should just about cope from cold without needing you to blip the throttle too much.
Fitting mappable management would be the better option in the long run though if funds permit.
Cheers
I can live with 1200rpm idle.
Is it the screw on top of TB that needs adjusting for this?
The problem with adjusting the screw potentially might be that you end up with the ECU thinking you are never at closed throttle, so it wont fuel cut on overrun etc (not sure if the standard one on these cars actually does that anyway though as its an anitque of course)
A better option sometimes is to remove the ICV, and replace with a fixed size orifice, at its simplest you can just use a rubber hose with a hose clip around it to pull it down to the correct size, this way the TPS signal will still go to zero when you back off.
The problem with adjusting the screw potentially might be that you end up with the ECU thinking you are never at closed throttle, so it wont fuel cut on overrun etc (not sure if the standard one on these cars actually does that anyway though as its an anitque of course)
A better option sometimes is to remove the ICV, and replace with a fixed size orifice, at its simplest you can just use a rubber hose with a hose clip around it to pull it down to the correct size, this way the TPS signal will still go to zero when you back off.
Chip many thanks for the advice am likeing that advice and will try shrinking the orifice to get it about right without touching the screws
volymmannen
18-07-2011, 13:20
The problem with adjusting the screw potentially might be that you end up with the ECU thinking you are never at closed throttle, so it wont fuel cut on overrun etc (not sure if the standard one on these cars actually does that anyway though as its an anitque of course)
it does,on my R 19 16v i can see in the onbord computer that it says 0 in consumption if you lift of .
volymmannen
18-07-2011, 13:21
The problem with adjusting the screw potentially might be that you end up with the ECU thinking you are never at closed throttle, so it wont fuel cut on overrun etc (not sure if the standard one on these cars actually does that anyway though as its an anitque of course)
it does,on my R 19 16v i can see in the onbord computer that it says 0 in consumption if you lift of .
An edit button would be so nice to have!
Right High idle after a good thrashing over 60mph now sorted, how sorted ditched the ICV and blocked up the pipes undo the small screw on the TB and adjust idle, do this when engine is up to temp, have idle about 1100 rpm's now which I can live with could prob go a little lower, not sure what the cold start will be like as no ICV now, ohwell can't be any worse than a carb'd car
I don't think the original management cuts to 0. If it does you wouldn't be able to get the pops and bangs from it...
Also thats the thing with speedo feedback. When you get below a certain speed it will disable the high rev and turn back to normal..
Does anyone know the pulse signal volt and length the VSS gives off?? only ask ok yes I have bypassed the ICV but it's not good on cold starts and it's not really that cold out there :(
So I am going down the route of Clio 172 ABS ring, Abs sensor and bracket and giving the ECU it's signal it needs, but I need to find out the number of teeth i need on the abs ring to give correct signal volt and gap
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