View Full Version : Starting Problem
cliopete
10-03-2011, 13:11
Just rebuilt my head after cam belt failure. Now have a slight problem with starting when engine is hot.
Before strip down, when I started the car the engine revs would rise momentarily without touching the throttle then settle to normal tick-over.
This is not happening now and as I said the car will sometimes struggle to start when hot and there is a strong smell of petrol. If I wait for a few minutes it starts OK. Any suggestions?
Pete
clutching at straws here but you would of had to take the thermostat housing off to get at the head. check the connections around the thermo housing and make sure the thermostat is not sticking. are you getting good heat inside the cabin from the heater? did you bleed the cooling system correctly?
check the fuel pipes around by the timing belt cover. maybe they have been dis-lodged or damaged?
smell of petrol can also be caused by a lambda not working correctly. I would go over the wiring again.
When you put it together again did you put the heat shields back on the starter and main shield?
Make sure the fuel lines are shielded, starter is shielded.
Is it overheating or getting hotter than usual?
cliopete
10-03-2011, 16:09
When you put it together again did you put the heat shields back on the starter and main shield?
Make sure the fuel lines are shielded, starter is shielded.
Is it overheating or getting hotter than usual?
All heat shields are in place and car is not overheating. All fuel pipes are OK and no leaks from any connections. All sensor connections are in place and cooling system fully bled.
cliopete
10-03-2011, 16:12
Oh forgot!! New thermostat fitted and cooling fan is kicking in at correct temp.
check all the breather pipes are in the correct position's and also have a look at the fuel rail and make sure all pipes leading to/from it are ok.
Just rebuilt my head after cam belt failure. Now have a slight problem with starting when engine is hot.
Before strip down, when I started the car the engine revs would rise momentarily without touching the throttle then settle to normal tick-over.
This is not happening now and as I said the car will sometimes struggle to start when hot and there is a strong smell of petrol. If I wait for a few minutes it starts OK. Any suggestions?
Pete
you are not being very specific here tbqfhwu doode .
is the starter turning fine and on ful power as it does when cold ??
smell of fuel suggests unburnt fuel .
what make/model spark plugs are you using ? are they single or twin ,triple ,quadrameguple electroded ??
what do you know about the condition of your CTS ? have you tried
disconnecting the leccy plug to it when this problem happens ?
TALK TO ME !!! HELP ME HELP YOU :P
cliopete
10-03-2011, 17:51
Just been out in car and it happened again. Was stopped for about ten mins. and car would not start. initial attempt engine fired but did not start, subsequent attempts engine turns over OK but does not fire up. Waited 20 mins and started, also tried restarting again immediately and it started.
Could it be some sort of heat soak problem?
cliopete
10-03-2011, 17:59
Just rebuilt my head after cam belt failure. Now have a slight problem with starting when engine is hot.
Before strip down, when I started the car the engine revs would rise momentarily without touching the throttle then settle to normal tick-over.
This is not happening now and as I said the car will sometimes struggle to start when hot and there is a strong smell of petrol. If I wait for a few minutes it starts OK. Any suggestions?
Pete
you are not being very specific here tbqfhwu doode .
is the starter turning fine and on ful power as it does when cold ??
smell of fuel suggests unburnt fuel .
what make/model spark plugs are you using ? are they single or twin ,triple ,quadrameguple electroded ??
what do you know about the condition of your CTS ? have you tried
disconnecting the leccy plug to it when this problem happens ?
TALK TO ME !!! HELP ME HELP YOU :P
The plugs are triple electrode Renault supplied. The starter is turning the engine over as normal, hot or cold. Not sure about CTS but it was OK before working on engine. Will try disconnecting it next time this happens.
Which is the CTS, the brown plug on top or the white one on the side of thermostat housing?
cliopete
12-03-2011, 12:54
This problem is still there, have checked all sensor plugs are fitted correctly, all fuel lines are routed and connected correctly and all breather pipes are fitted correctly.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Is it worth getting a Renault diagnostic test carried out?
Pete
This problem is still there, have checked all sensor plugs are fitted correctly, all fuel lines are routed and connected correctly and all breather pipes are fitted correctly.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Is it worth getting a Renault diagnostic test carried out?
Pete
i put my monies on the main earth points now ;
engine to bulkhead/battery
gearbox to chassis leg
check them both and triple clean the contacts with wire brush and make
sure they are all nice and tight as a nun`s bum .
same goes for the battery terminals ,they may look clean from outside but
take them out and re-clean !!
also get rid of the gahey triple electrode plugs pls :wink:
cliopete
12-03-2011, 14:28
The plugs were supplied by Renault main dealer as original equipment.
What else would you suggest. All earth connections seem to be OK but will give them all a good clean up.
Pete
did you refit the ICV the correct way?
The plugs were supplied by Renault main dealer as original equipment.
What else would you suggest. All earth connections seem to be OK but will give them all a good clean up.
Pete
its not rocket science , renault delaer dont know their arse from elbow .
this is a well known FACT !!!
single electrode is what you want .
Brealbags
12-03-2011, 15:33
If it's turning over and theres a smell of fuel then the injectors must be opening. Sounds like the plugs arnt firing.
All ignition systems ok?
Get it to fault again and check the coils not breaking down when hot or something.
Could be many things dude, coil, CTS, 02 sensor, earths, ecu
cliopete
12-03-2011, 15:34
The plugs were supplied by Renault main dealer as original equipment.
What else would you suggest. All earth connections seem to be OK but will give them all a good clean up.
Pete
its not rocket science , renault delaer dont know their arse from elbow .
this is a well known FACT !!!
single electrode is what you want .
What plugs do you recommend then schakal?
Look, everything was working before the head rebuild right? Obviously something has not gone back on correctly. And there's no reason it should not work as it was before unless you fried/broke something.
Were the plugs changed before or after the head rebuild? If after put the old ones back in if not you can dis-regard them.
Check for spark when it wont start by removing 1 plug lead and put one of your old plugs in it and hold it to earth with plastic or insulated plyers get a mate to crank it over. If thers no spark check connections on crank sensor they often break down under heat.Just a suggestion hope it helps.
Brealbags
12-03-2011, 18:38
That test only shows if one lead is working at a time though. If it was the case that only one or two leads were down, it would splutter and missfire
Seen as it's just cranking I would say the coil itself is faulty or the crank sensor
The latter is very common for failing btw
True mate just trying to determine if its got spark before we go too deep into it , you could also do same test at king lead. Just trying to help no point me suggesting other tests untill we know basic things are there first. Lets be honest we could all give him a list as long as we want but that will just confuse the issue. Thanks ANDREW.
cliopete
12-03-2011, 21:44
The car starts and runs perfectly, no misfires or any hesitancy at all.
It just occasionally won't start when the engine is warm or hot and starts no problem when it has cooled down.
Pete
Brealbags
13-03-2011, 12:02
Have you got access to a multi meter ?
If I were you I'd try the crank sensor first. Just remove it and check the condition of the contact. You could measure the resistance through it should be 150-250 ohms
Brealbags
13-03-2011, 12:03
Do it when hot and cold.
cliopete
13-03-2011, 23:38
Have you got access to a multi meter ?
If I were you I'd try the crank sensor first. Just remove it and check the condition of the contact. You could measure the resistance through it should be 150-250 ohms
Checked this today, 220 ohms cold and 260 ohms hot assume this to be OK.
Car seemed to start better today anyway after a quick blast to Manchester Airport and back last night to collect the wife.
Pete
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.