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View Full Version : Oh S*** Cam belt has Just Gone



cliopete
23-02-2011, 13:20
What can I expect to find when I remove head :cry: :cry: and best places to obtain spares?? Valves, head gasket set, cam belt kit etc. and any other things that should be done whilst I'm at it?
Engine has done 130,000 miles and cam belt was last changed at 85000 miles. Would anew set of tappets be a good idea?

Pete

chip
23-02-2011, 13:30
Under what circumstances did it fail?

If it was at idle, expect bent valves and some marks that you can ignore on the pistons.

If it was at 6000rpm on the back straight at bedford and you didnt get the clutch down straight away then expect the sump to be full of the heads of your valves and the pistons to be totally detroyed and the head to be completely trashed and quite possible the bores too.


If it was normal driving, somewhere between the two!


And yeah its worth doing the tappets after 130K

cliopete
23-02-2011, 13:57
It went while driving quite normally, third gear uphill at about 30mph.

Wobba
23-02-2011, 14:14
I managed to save most of my engine to just 3 or so bent valves by putting foot on clutch very quick. You may be lucky. get the head off and look is your best bet to start off, or just replace complete engine.

cliopete
23-02-2011, 14:19
Engine replacement is a option as I had been thinking of buying another engine to rebuild over the summer as a project.
Anyone got one for sale at a reasonable price that I can fit now and then rebuild my existing unit as and when time permits.

Wobba
23-02-2011, 14:22
Mat Brown does I think.

chip
23-02-2011, 14:34
fitting a new engine is the easiest way back onto the road.

Then you can pull yours apart and decide if its worth rebuilding or not, I would imagine it will be just valve and guide damage based on how you said it failed, so probably ideal for a decent rebuild :)

shag
23-02-2011, 16:47
I GOT 1 MINT HEAD BUT CRANK OIL PUMP FOOKED

canelloni
23-02-2011, 17:19
Mine broke while I was doing about 20. Needs 16 new valves 4 pistons and it sheared the woodruff key and bolt on the inlet cam shaft / pulley and the cam belts only been on 9 months 1600 miles. Oh the joys of owning a willy :shock:

cliopete
23-02-2011, 22:49
I GOT 1 MINT HEAD BUT CRANK OIL PUMP FOOKED

How much for the head, or do you want to sell the whole unit?

Pete

cliopete
27-02-2011, 11:17
Update. Head all stripped down, only four inlet valves bent, exhausts all seem OK. All new parts on order, including new tappets and a few other things to be sorted while it's in bits including sorting out the adjustment pulley for aux. drive belt, £100for a new casting :cry:
What a pain to work on with engine still in car, knuckles sore as hell.
Anyone any tips for holding the cam belt aux drive pulley, the one to the left of the crankshaft pulley, when tightening to the required torque, managed to jam it with a screwdriver down the back of the inner timing belt cover to undo it but any other tips would help.

Pete

Wobba
27-02-2011, 12:37
Update. Head all stripped down, only four inlet valves bent, exhausts all seem OK. All new parts on order, including new tappets and a few other things to be sorted while it's in bits including sorting out the adjustment pulley for aux. drive belt, £100for a new casting :cry:
What a pain to work on with engine still in car, knuckles sore as hell.
Anyone any tips for holding the cam belt aux drive pulley, the one to the left of the crankshaft pulley, when tightening to the required torque, managed to jam it with a screwdriver down the back of the inner timing belt cover to undo it but any other tips would help.

Pete

Well done :)

Yes that PS bracketing is a pain in the arse. It's often worth replacing the water pump at the same time.

That pulley you are on about serves different functions depending on engine type. I believe it is the oil pump pulley on the F7R 700. Why are you replacing that? Is it noisy?

I don't recall it spinning when tightening as it is a bearing and the pulley spins around the bolt, not with it?

Laine_16v
27-02-2011, 12:41
wrap an cold cambelt around the pulley and twist it/jam it/get a mate to hold it while your torqueing it up.

Laine_16v
27-02-2011, 12:41
OLD*

FFFFFUUUUUUUUUU edit button

cliopete
27-02-2011, 13:39
Update. Head all stripped down, only four inlet valves bent, exhausts all seem OK. All new parts on order, including new tappets and a few other things to be sorted while it's in bits including sorting out the adjustment pulley for aux. drive belt, £100for a new casting :cry:
What a pain to work on with engine still in car, knuckles sore as hell.
Anyone any tips for holding the cam belt aux drive pulley, the one to the left of the crankshaft pulley, when tightening to the required torque, managed to jam it with a screwdriver down the back of the inner timing belt cover to undo it but any other tips would help.

Pete

Well done :)

Yes that PS bracketing is a pain in the arse. It's often worth replacing the water pump at the same time.

That pulley you are on about serves different functions depending on engine type. I believe it is the oil pump pulley on the F7R 700. Why are you replacing that? Is it noisy?

I don't recall it spinning when tightening as it is a bearing and the pulley spins around the bolt, not with it?

Yes it's the oil pump drive pulley, I removed it to get the rear timing belt cover off in order to replace the timing belt idler pulley that comes as part of the timing belt kit. It definitely spins when removing or replacing and it's a pain to hold in place when re-tightening.

Pete

cliopete
06-03-2011, 21:08
All finished today, taken my time as I have never done any major jobs on this engine before. Just got back from a quick test run and it's running "as sweet as a nut" :D :D . The new tappets have certainly quietened the engine down a lot and the new RH engine mount has cured a long standing vibration under hard acceleration. Only problem is I've blown the budget on getting the body work sorted :cry: :cry:

Pete

2 live
07-03-2011, 03:11
iirc it needed the aux adjuster when the water pump was done.... bloody expensive from reno ;)

cliopete
07-03-2011, 12:30
iirc it needed the aux adjuster when the water pump was done.... bloody expensive from reno ;)

Hi Jon
Yes it did but managed up to now by removing the mounting bracket that bolts on the inlet manifold and enlarging the hole in the alternator, but now it's all as it should be and I can at last stop the screeching alternator and power steering pump. Like you say, not cheep, £97 from our local Renault stealers and special order from France.

Pete