View Full Version : Easy 1 for yous!
done the clutch, water pump and power steering pump. started first go.
noticed tappets were noisy. replaced them.
Will not start now.
Things I've noticed:
1. remote key fob not working, not de-activating immobiliser. ( am by-passing it by unplugging it)
2. no spark to plugs. (tested by earthing off the car)
before someone says earth problem I did not touch them whilst doing the tappets. no need to.
belts yes had to be reset after the cam carriers were off but they (the cams) went back into the same position.
The ONLY thing that did happen whilst doing the carriers I had a problem with the distributor cap and the part it sits into on the carrier on the outlet side. I busted it and the disc.:oops:
got a new part and fitted today. Made sure I fitted all the leads back into the correct firing order on the dizzy cap.
Other than that I took the coil pack off to clean it.
should have said i smell fuel, and the belts were done on the first go with the clutch etc..
checked the crank sensor..It's the black thing on the gearbox pointing down at the flywheel correct?
the only other thing i can think of is when you put the part which fits into the cam carrier (which holds the dizzy cap) maybe the rotar needs to be rotated 180 degrees? But I would get a spark all the same..
bah my toughest challenge with this car to date!
Does it crank at all? Ignition lights come on?
The bit with the dizzy only goes in one way I think...unless you somehow bolted it in upside down...the embossed writing on the side should face upwards.
hi. yes it's cranking over on the starter motor.
yep your right on the dizzy holding. only one way it can go on. had it on correct.
tried a few earth tests just in case by running a jump lead from battery - to the gearbox. still no joy.
with no spark it must be the coil pack? surely any other sensors would not stop the coil from sending a spark?
even ran a plug off the main coil lead to dizzy and still no spark.
will see tomorrow if I can pick up a cheap coil from gsf and go from there.
brake lights aint working either. must be a relay?
anyone know which relay's do what?
I figured out the indicator ones as they make the most noise when activated :lol:
but the rest of them have no idea.
need to find someone with an obd.
Could be coil, king lead from coil to dizzy. Not touched crank sensor have you?
Guess it could be blown ECU.
blown ECU..F**K! :wink:
didnt touch the crank sensor only to clean it after it didnt start (after doing the lifters).
i must of blown a relay or something when I was cleaning around the engine bay perhaps. break lights not working, indicators acting weird and no spark. ah well at least the stereo works!
going over to my bro's place. he has an OBD reader. will report back later.
thanks,
fab.
what a co** sucking car this is! :twisted:
i have a bosch diagnostic unit which ive seen fit into porches,mazers and just about any mainstream car you can think of AND yet the diag socket on the clio is fookin arseways. what a nightmare.
rant over.
MatBrown
25-09-2010, 14:59
Yeah, it's an early obd not the common obdII used on most cars these days.
Mat.
zmaster2k
25-09-2010, 15:37
i have an Ecu for sale on ebay if you require one...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280566730286#ht_500wt_947
tried a new tps sensor. still no joy.
will try get a XR25 12 pin to obd 16 pin adapter and see if the bosch unit will read it.
last resort will be bringing it to renault to get sorted. oh the shame!! :oops:
have a nice weekend lads (and ladies)..
fab.
probably clutching at straws here but is it possible that the timing is out?
this is what i done and maybe one of you can confirm if it ok.
We know it started after the belts were changed along with clutch etc.
To do the tappets the belts had to come off again.
Obviously when lifting the carriers out the timing gets messed up correct?
So when I put the cams back in I put them back in exactly the same way they came out..using my tipex marks as reference. Also made sure crank pulley was at TDC.
question is.. should I have followed the timing marks on the cover rather than my own especially because the 2nd time around the cams were lifted out?
checked timing again. its spot on. can do belts now in 30 minutes :lol:
left with coil, a relay or the ecu.
One of the Relays in fuse by by the battery should click when ign switched on if it doesnt check connection on relay they sufffer from bad connection. DO NOT REPLACE WITH NORMAL RELAY PIN CONFIG IS DIFFERENT. Hope that helps, this problem also gives other elec problems like the ones you listed. Good luck ANDREW.
Meant fuse box not fuse by by. :)
thanks for the post.
checked them relays and one of them (the big blue one i guess) is clicking when ignition is switched on.
what i have noticed is that when dis-connecting/re-connecting the battery negative it is not sparking as it used to. you know the way it gives a little spark when attaching the cap back on?
but I am running a jump lead cable from negative to gearbox just in case.
another thing I noticed is the 2 wires that run from the coil into the bulk head lead over to the immobilser. thats normal i guess but I was expecting them to be in the fusebox. when i turn on the ignition the immobilser light goes out so i am assuming it is Ok.
not sure what to do next other than wait for a xr25/OBD convertor socket. not sure what that will tell me.
Well if the ECU is blown then the Bosch diag unit will tell me or will not be able to talk with it.
When you switch ign on 2 relays click (should have said in orig reply) but one will click out after couple of seconds thats the fuel pump one the other will stay in thats the one your looking for from memory its a small ordinary looking one if this one does not work you get no spark.If fuel pump relay does not click in/out as other posts have said could be looking at ecu.Where you based? hope that helped . CHEERS MATE ANDREW.
Also dont believe everthing a code reader tells you if it flags up loads of codes more likely to be common fault on that system, also will flag an ecu if you have a power problem . hope not confusing the issue. ANDREW
thanks thats a great help :wink:
not knowing which relay is for what is head wrecking to say the least.
yes fuel pump does prime.
will go check those 3 little ordinary relays in the box beside battery.
those relays appear to be kicking in fine.
I'm going over the wiring at the moment in the cabin just in-case something is not right but all appears fine also in there. the immobiliser is a bit of a complex. not sure why the 2 wires from the ignition coil go into that box. must be a feature to cut ignition if the immob is activated. shouldnt they go into the fuse box?
so to summarize:
no spark.
no break lights.
hazards and indicators trigger the wipers, as do the main beams.
the rev counter does not flicker when ignition is switched on (not sure it ever did to be honest)
things working/done:
fuel pump is priming
battery is charged.
TPS sensor replaced.
dizzy cap and rotar are new items also.
running extra earth from battery to gearbox.
checked existing earths. all appear intact and clean.
fuses are all ok.
relays appear to be functioning.
the only thing left I can think of is the ignition coil itself but that would not explain why the lights are acting up.
anything else besides ECU that would not allow the car to fire up?
c'mon lads lets beat the computer :lol: :wink:
You may have tried this but is the earth from battery to body ok. This really does sound like a current as in amp problem ie when switching things on they try to draw through other systems . Are all the lives tight .Apart from that without seeing the car I cant suggest anything else.If you get a code reader post codes first before buying anything! ALL THE BEST MATE ANDREW. ps use a multimeter to test ohms on coil.
some pics is the best i can do at the moment..
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b300/fabtrader/williams-8.jpg
its orange coolant BTW :lol: ( 5 litres of blue stuff wasnt enough to fill the system)
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b300/fabtrader/williams-2.jpg
those 2 wires going from coil to imob.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b300/fabtrader/williams-4.jpg
probably not a standard fitment? shit load of wires doing nothing!
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b300/fabtrader/williams-6.jpg
bosch waiting for the adapter.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b300/fabtrader/williams-7.jpg
should have the adapter tomorrow. if not gotta source one from the UK. will post codes.
p.sAndrew i'm across the water in dublin, but i'm not afraid to travel as most of the lads know here :wink:
have this car over 5 years now and it's never given me a days trouble. this is my fault for sure so i owe it to the car to fix it.
multimeter is showing me 2.69 ohm on the coil lead pin. does that sound right?
immob not standard disconnect it , should be easy I will give you quick guide ... you should have 2 wires from coil going in to immob basically immob sits inbetween the wires as an on off switch so just bypass it find colour of wires going in and reconnect to same colour wires coming out (original renault wires not immob wires) looking at pics I would say you can find the connections under the coil Im just taking a guess there from pics. or just follow those wires you've taken pics of, bet they break into one or two wires and basically leave them open circuit. I have seen this type of immob do this after battery been disconnected for any length of time.Cant make out whether its 4 wires you got there if it is it will be four wires you disconnect and two original wires you re connect , again hope this helps not hinders you. ANDREW. If you want to pm me tomorrow I ll give my works number , and we will go from there . :wink:
ok will do that.
Andrew youve been a great help,will pm you in the morning..
cheers and thanks.
fab. :D
good morning!
right, we can rule out the indicator/light stalk also as danno sent me over pretty much a new one and i fitted it this morning.
about the 2 wires that run from the coil (there is a third in the pic, thats the power for the immobiliser) well they lead directly to the imob and there is no "original" wires left lying around that they could originally have been connected to. so i'm not sure if anyone knows where they should go..maybe the battery fusebox? really dont know.
somehow I dont think its imob related as the battery has been dis-connected for longer periods whilst the car was not in use.
from what I can see in the cabin fusebox, all the light's,indicators and wipers feed off a big blue relay to the left of the fusebox. it clicks and all but that does not mean it aint causing problems.
Went over the main earths again(third time)this morning and they are solid and clean.
Cant do anything else now unless I get a diagnostics running on the car.
She fired up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!yoohoowhoooooooooo!!!!
It was the imobiliser.
Thanks to everyone and Andrew from A&P for his guidance on the imob wiring.
Will promise to close off all my posts before I leave:-)
We beat the computer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :lol: 8)
lol :D yey!
Those immobilisers are a pain in the arse!
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