View Full Version : Really stiff box on gear select
Ok i have another big question, i have just got my Clio up and running after buying it and it wont select 3rd, 4th or 5th with the engine on or off.
Ive been searching previous posts and none are like this. Basically it will select 1st, 2nd & reverse but not the rest unless you really slam it across at force.
Ive had a look underneath and its not pulling the gear selector down out of box properly. We have checked the linkage and its lined up correctly. Would a worn linkage not bring this selector out of the box correctly or is it the box?
Ive tried moving it by hand underneath and its stiff to pull down by hand, should it be? Ive got a spare box for it but don't want to spend an entire day changing it only to find its not the issue.
Just to say to when you get the gears they are all in the correct place i.e 1st on far left etc. It seems like the selector on the bottom of the box wont come down like i said but is this because of linkage.
Sorry to sound dumb its really stressing me out. Even though the gears are in the right place just stiff could it still be linkage.
Thank you all for your help and advise.
check the gearbox mount.
sorry to sound stupid but how does that affect it.lol
Please ignore my above question.lol just went and had a look tho and she seems spot on, looks very new actually :D
not sure myself but try elimating parts - disconnect the linkage from gear lever and check the lever moves ok.
not sure myself but try elimating parts - disconnect the linkage from gear lever and check the lever moves ok.
Cheers for that dude, am I right in saying these linkages have two connectors almost, as in 1st, 2nd on the small and 3rd, 4th, and 5th on another, so potentially even if the first three gears are in the right place the others could still be out due to this. Please correct me if im wrong? I ask as I personally did not check the linkage it was done by a friend. If this is right what part do I need to adjust on the linkage?
the linkage is held to the gear lever with 1 x 13mm nut, take this off and check the lever moves ok - if it does then the problem is at the gearbox side.
Just checked that now, its gearbox side! It does go into 5th and 4th occassionally if you try about 12 times with alot of force. Can i adjust linkage then to fix this without moving the first few gears.
im not sure as ive never done it. But i know when people have fitted the short shifters they have adjusted the linkage.
Just done a quick search for u
Fix 1
disconnect the gear linkage bar from the g/b end
and do a few gear changes by hand while chucking some grease on there.
Fix 2
1. Clearly marking the adjustable bar and gear link rod in relation to each other makes life a lot easier and you'll be able to work out which way to adjust a lot quicker (my first mistake!)
2. Before you do anything test 5th gear is accessible and reverse. It may be that you can only get 1st and 2nd through lifting the reverse gear sleeve on the lever.
3. Bear in my that even a 1mm change in either direction on the adjustable rod makes a noticeable difference to the overrall gear selection, as such, only make small increments in each direction, testing the gears as you do each change.
4. If you choose to change the smaller link bar, be very careful with the plastic balljoint holder and the small circlip. They are fragile!
5. Make sure you have plenty of latex gloves...got through about 30 pairs doing this.
Just done a quick search for u
Fix 1
disconnect the gear linkage bar from the g/b end
and do a few gear changes by hand while chucking some grease on there.
Fix 2
1. Clearly marking the adjustable bar and gear link rod in relation to each other makes life a lot easier and you'll be able to work out which way to adjust a lot quicker (my first mistake!)
2. Before you do anything test 5th gear is accessible and reverse. It may be that you can only get 1st and 2nd through lifting the reverse gear sleeve on the lever.
3. Bear in my that even a 1mm change in either direction on the adjustable rod makes a noticeable difference to the overrall gear selection, as such, only make small increments in each direction, testing the gears as you do each change.
4. If you choose to change the smaller link bar, be very careful with the plastic balljoint holder and the small circlip. They are fragile!
5. Make sure you have plenty of latex gloves...got through about 30 pairs doing this.
+ 1 extra advice:
6. During changing gears by hand (at the gear box side): try to turn the small link bar around its axis. It must turn easily in all gears:
http://www.fw.hu/yanooka/kepek/magyarazo.jpg
Thank you for the info guys, VERY useful :) happy with that.
Can I ask you, if I have taken the linkage of the box and I am struggling to pull the selector down for the higher gears i.e 3rd, 4th, 5th would this give the idea my box is dead? I can do it with a screwdriver but not by hand.
no dont think you can by hand very easily iirc..
think it just sounds like and adjustment problem..needs tiny amounts of adjustment usually..
have you checked if there is enough oil in there ? :idea:
Thank you for the info guys, VERY useful :) happy with that.
Can I ask you, if I have taken the linkage of the box and I am struggling to pull the selector down for the higher gears i.e 3rd, 4th, 5th would this give the idea my box is dead? I can do it with a screwdriver but not by hand.
When the gearbox (and the selector arm) is in neutral, the selector arm is in the the plain of 3rd and 4th and in the (almost) middle of the distance between the position of 3rd and 4th:
http://www.fw.hu/yanooka/kepek/selector_arm_movement.jpg
As it's written in this picture, the baseplain (baseposition) of the selector arm is the plain of 3rd and 4th, it means that you have to lift up or pull down the selector arm if you want to select 1st, 2nd, reverse or 5th.
If you (pre)select 1st and 2nd, you must lift up the selector arm into the plain of 1st and 2nd. You should be able to do it easily if you move the selector arm by hand. It's also right for selecting reverse. (when the whole linkage is connected, you feel a retaining force - enforced by a spring that's connected to the gear linkage under the car).
If you (pre)select 5th by hand (at the gearbox), you must pull down the selector arm into the plain of 5th - it's more difficult because a built-in spring tries to prevent this movement, you must compress this spring.
So, you should be able to lift up easily the selector arm by hand to (pre)select 1st, 2nd and reverse. You should be able to move forward and backward the selector arm easily, if you want to select 3rd and 4th by hand. Selecting 5th is more difficult due to the built in spring. I guess the internal part / shaft of the selector arm is seized. Is there enough oil in the gear box?
Just done a quick search for u
Fix 1
disconnect the gear linkage bar from the g/b end
and do a few gear changes by hand while chucking some grease on there.
Fix 2
1. Clearly marking the adjustable bar and gear link rod in relation to each other makes life a lot easier and you'll be able to work out which way to adjust a lot quicker (my first mistake!)
2. Before you do anything test 5th gear is accessible and reverse. It may be that you can only get 1st and 2nd through lifting the reverse gear sleeve on the lever.
3. Bear in my that even a 1mm change in either direction on the adjustable rod makes a noticeable difference to the overrall gear selection, as such, only make small increments in each direction, testing the gears as you do each change.
4. If you choose to change the smaller link bar, be very careful with the plastic balljoint holder and the small circlip. They are fragile!
5. Make sure you have plenty of latex gloves...got through about 30 pairs doing this.
Lol, my guide methinks ^^
Ok, it could still be the gearbox mount or even dogbone mount. Did you try taking the battery tray off and inspecting it? Sometimes the nyloc nut is not on properly, check it's tight. Best way to make sure is jack the engine up a bit on the gearbox side from under the sump (put a piece of wood between jack and sump to avoid damage). If the nut goes up and can be spun then you need to tighten it properly. Could be the spikey bit underneath or the bracket has snapped, so visually check under the tray as well.
Before setting the gear lever with the instructions Northy posted ensure you have a good solid dogbone mount, can take it off easily and check the rubber bushes. If they are split or wobble about too easily then setting the gears up like that may cause further issues down the line, trust me, I've been there.
Also, for reference, the adjustable bar with the grooves in is called the 'clevis bar'. It's this you need to twist in relation to the gear level selection rod before clamping it down.
I think from what I have read you will need to twist the clevis bar clockwise from the point of view of sitting in the drivers seat. Remember...TINY adjustments only at a time.
These adjustments may be pointless if your gearbox or dogbone mount are significantly worn, not so big a deal for main engine mount.
Any questions, ask away.
Thank you all for your responses :) very very handy. It was a knackrd box in the end so i replaced it with spare yesterday and today which made this more handy again as i needed to do the linkage.lol Also found some interesting things/toys in the engine bay as i decided to take the engine out as well to check everything over. glad i did engine mount was split in two :(
Thank you all for your responses :) very very handy. It was a knackrd box in the end so i replaced it with spare yesterday and today which made this more handy again as i needed to do the linkage.lol Also found some interesting things/toys in the engine bay as i decided to take the engine out as well to check everything over. glad i did engine mount was split in two :(
Haha! Nice work! Which mount was shagged? Gearbox?
it will be the gearbox linkage you need to slacken of the nut and turn the lingage either clockwise or anti clockwise, jack the front of the car up then it will be easier to check the car going into gear with the wheels spinning.
Thank you all for your responses :) very very handy. It was a knackrd box in the end so i replaced it with spare yesterday and today which made this more handy again as i needed to do the linkage.lol Also found some interesting things/toys in the engine bay as i decided to take the engine out as well to check everything over. glad i did engine mount was split in two :(
Haha! Nice work! Which mount was shagged? Gearbox?
cheers :) it was the main engine mount on the engine side, was in half and the metal that tore out was not flat any more it was bent. so bought a replacement from Renault. Also I changed the suspension while she was apart as the front springs were screwed. The drivers side was cut and the passenger side was 4" higher nearly. Really bad :( so i also put brand new springs on as well as brand new clutch kit and clutch cable while it was all apart. Worth the extra money I think.
deep deep pockets FTMFW !!! 8) 8) ^^^^
deep deep pockets FTMFW !!! 8) 8) ^^^^
:( I wish.lol
I just sold my fiesta so used some of the cash from that. Worth investment I thought considering it was all apart. Good prices to actually on parts.lol
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