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View Full Version : * BIG SPEC Forged Rebuilt F7R B/E *



Laine_16v
02-10-2009, 01:48
OK heres the deal, thinking of going another route, this engine was fully rebuilt no expense spared, it ran very very well for 5500 miles before its failed compltetely.

2 M6 bolts were sucked into cylinder #1, the engine locked when cranking over, so there is possible, head damage, valve damage, piston and bore damage, so this sale is conditional of the damage (or lack of), when the engine will be taken apart this saturday. ANyway heres the spec...

- Cylinder Block stripped down inspected and cleaned (inc Oil Jets)
- Oil pump stripped down, inspected and cleaned

NEW PARTS:

- All new bottom end gaskets and seals - £60
- ACL Main end bearings - £40
- Glyco big end bearings - £40
- Crank thrust washers - £30
- JE Proseal Piston Rings - £130

- Cylinder block hone - £60
- Cylinder block skimmed to match piston heighy- £60
- Piston Ring End Gapping - £150

JE Forged H/C Pistons 11.2:1 - ~£500
Forged Con Rods - ~£300
ARP Rod BOlts - £60

Other info..

It was built largely with the help from Craig @ AP-Developments.

Has a worked crankshaft, its been destressed (sharp edges have been smoothed), maybe balanced too?

Engine puffs and bloffs absolutely no smoke what so ever, and does not burn oil.

A few things to note, this block is an original ,its using all original size bearings and an original unground crankshaft.

When i put the pistons in, i bent 2 of the rings by accident, as a result i had a second set of brand new piston rings shipped over and fitted these. Because i only needed 2 oil scraper rings (minor), i have the other 16 new rings in the pack still so they can be used on a future rebuild.

The engine holds absolutey immaculate oil pressure. I can back this up, as i run with a mehcanical oil pressure gauge.

Cold idle 4 bar ish. When cold the engine will hill 5.5 bar from 2000rpm onwards, and maintain this to around 4000rpm where it shoots of upto 7bar+ (hence always carefully warmed up).

When fully up to temperature after a spritied drive, the engine will make 4.2 bar by 3500rpm and hold it all day long, and 1.5bar hot.

BAD POINTS:

Leaks a little oil from the crank seal i believe, easy enough to change.

2 of the 19 sump bolt threads has rounded, no real term effect.

Oil temp/level sensor doesnt work

Thats all i can really think of at the momnet, unsure of price, really but ballpark £1k.

Pictures... (in no particular order lol)

Completey stripped after being machined, installing main end bearings

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Rebuild/DSC00076Large.jpg

Pro Seal Piston Rings, imported from USA

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000566Large.jpg

New Bearings..

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000569Large.jpg

All together...

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000567Large.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000568Large.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000572Large.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000573Large.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/laine_16v/Engine%20Build%202/P1000576Large.jpg

Coops
02-10-2009, 11:29
off topic but how in the hell did you manage to suck up bolts? :shock:

schakal
02-10-2009, 11:57
off topic but how in the hell did you manage to suck up bolts? :shock:

i would pay to hear this one :D :D
come on mr crisps ,TALK TO ME !!!

Laine_16v
02-10-2009, 11:59
Air trumpet bolts vibrated loose mate

Evogone
02-10-2009, 12:05
off topic but how in the hell did you manage to suck up bolts? :shock:

They come loose :wink: , the ITB engine i have just bought has done 300 miles and one of the trumpets was loose due to the bolts slackening off. Its not an uncommmon problem..! :cry:

Lucky i spotted it or i could have had a Laine spec motor.! :D

schakal
02-10-2009, 12:06
fokkenzie :shock: :shock:
no lock nuts ? no thread lock stuff used on them ?

also are not the bolts on the outside of the trumpets ?
how the hell did they manage to get in ? :roll:

Coops
02-10-2009, 12:31
but i thought the bolts that hold them to the bodies are on the outside of the trumpets, not the inside :?

zmaster2k
02-10-2009, 16:30
aye do the bolts not disrupt the airflow?

Evogone
02-10-2009, 16:47
but i thought the bolts that hold them to the bodies are on the outside of the trumpets, not the inside :?

There not inside the trumpet but they come loose and rattle round in the airfilter then eventually get sucked into the trumpet then immenant disaster!!! !

Laine_16v
02-10-2009, 16:57
but i thought the bolts that hold them to the bodies are on the outside of the trumpets, not the inside :?

There not inside the trumpet but they come loose and rattle round in the airfilter then eventually get sucked into the trumpet then immenant disaster!!! !

DING DING DING, correct answer :D

http://www.dtafast.co.uk/Throttle%20bodies/Throttle%20body%20images/Injected%20Air%20Horn.jpg

See how the flange bolts are on the outside of the trumpet.

Laine_16v
02-10-2009, 17:00
It was an unfortunate oversight that i should have picked up on.

I expect locktite would have saved the day. Theres no "space" for nyloc nuts on the end of the bolts.

zmaster2k
02-10-2009, 17:15
so is the engine fubard dude?

cliolord
04-10-2009, 13:20
Don't see my trumpet bolts rattling loose bud :wink: uprated

sideways danny
04-10-2009, 18:11
spring washers are normally enough to stop them rattling loose but it happens :( Treadlock is a good idea but it can get a little messy

Evogone
04-10-2009, 18:37
spring washers are normally enough to stop them rattling loose but it happens :( Treadlock is a good idea but it can get a little messy

Posh motors are wire lock but OTT for most applications...threadlock and spring washers should be fine.

Laine_16v
04-10-2009, 18:41
Yeah i didnt have any washer at all.

Its been pulled apart, the piston is a bit damaged on top but the bottom end turns over perfect, and the bores are absolutely mint!.

So will sell the bottom end without pistons and rod, but keep the crank bearings e.t.c so you KNOW its a sound B/E in which case, and considering i actually want to get rid really quick, i will take any offers via PM.