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_ol_
28-09-2009, 19:39
The chap I bought the car from had the steering column welded to fix the wheel movement issue common on the willy.

Unfortunately, he didn't have it welded when the steering wheel was centre, so I drive with the wheel tilting slightly to the left...

So really I guess I'm asking what are my options here? Could it be de-welded and then done back up again? Or does it need a new steering column altogether, and either way, what sort of time does it take to do the work?

I read on here I think that to get the welding done is something like £30 so would it be a lot more to get it fixed?

Thanks a lot in advance for the help.

Ol

Justin..
28-09-2009, 19:47
My first port of call would be a laser tracking session. then move the steering wheel to suit lol

_ol_
28-09-2009, 19:50
Ah ok you think that'll be the best bet then... Haha... I like to think out of the box y'know. :lol:

What do you think the laser alignment would cost?

Sorry for the dumbass question mate.

Justin..
28-09-2009, 19:52
not a clue on cost, been years since ive had it done :oops:

schakal
28-09-2009, 20:13
like ricer boy said above ^^^

alignment will cost around 25 to 35 quid , get it done in a
reputable place though . if tyres are fooked / unevenly worn
replace them before tracking also :wink:

_ol_
28-09-2009, 20:15
Ta for the info.

I've got to get the springs changed on the front as it was lowered previously, so I guess I should wait to do that first too right?

schakal
28-09-2009, 20:21
Ta for the info.

I've got to get the springs changed on the front as it was lowered previously, so I guess I should wait to do that first too right?

yes deffo do it after , springs will affect how the wheels sit .

_ol_
28-09-2009, 20:22
Brilliant, thanks mate.

MatBrown
28-09-2009, 21:32
Steering wheel just unbolts in the middle, can be moved round till it's straight.


Mat.

_PAUL_
28-09-2009, 21:54
Hmmm do you think that would be the case with my problem.

The steering wheel feels "loose" and you can move it 1-2cm to the left and right before you get any sort of movement.
I had the tracking done before but it was with a cheap machine done by hand with no laser etc. It was fine when it was first done but it seems to have got worse.
The column looks to have been welded in the past.

_ol_
28-09-2009, 23:35
Steering wheel just unbolts in the middle, can be moved round till it's straight.


Mat.What, do I just take off the middle part of the wheel? With the Renault sign on it?

That would be *brilliant*.
Hmmm do you think that would be the case with my problem.

The steering wheel feels "loose" and you can move it 1-2cm to the left and right before you get any sort of movement.
I had the tracking done before but it was with a cheap machine done by hand with no laser etc. It was fine when it was first done but it seems to have got worse.
The column looks to have been welded in the past.If it's been welded in the past I'm not 100% sure - maybe it wasn't a very good job or something, but from what I know that generally solves the problem you're describing.

Coops
29-09-2009, 00:13
yep, whip cover off the centre, its just pulls off to reveal a nice place to hide drugs, and there should be behind the drugs a nice big bolt, loosen that, but leave a few threads in, then pull the steering wheel loose.it'll probably pop off violently, hence leave the bolt in to save smacking youself in the face

then ensure wheels are straight and re-align the wheel on the splines so its straight, done

other causes for play in the steering can be:
- track rod ends
- inner track rod ball joints
- worn rack mounting bushes to the subframe

_PAUL_
29-09-2009, 00:20
Coops would you say i should get some laser tracking done first and then if the problem is still there check the things you mentioned above ?
I wouldnt have a clue how to check the things you mention so would probably need a garage to check :(

cliokiz
29-09-2009, 09:10
If you have movement i wonder whether the weld has snapped?

Wobba
29-09-2009, 10:08
Coops would you say i should get some laser tracking done first and then if the problem is still there check the things you mentioned above ?
I wouldnt have a clue how to check the things you mention so would probably need a garage to check :(

Tracking merely aligns the wheels correctly, it wont repair play in steering.

If it was me I would replace the track rods, track rod ends and check the weld on the universal joint is not damaged (in the footwell there is a big black rubber bung where the column goes to the steering rack, pull it back, get a torch in there and have a look).

If it were me and there is any issue with steering/handling I'd replace everything to be sure. Bushes, wishbones, rods and ends.

_ol_
29-09-2009, 10:54
Thanks for the tips coops - very handy. :)

Haha.

Coops
29-09-2009, 11:20
easy to check most components even for a beginner

firstly as keiren says, pull the big rubber boot up the column from inside drivers footwell where it goes through the bulkhead. grab the column below the universal joint and wiggle the steering wheel in your free hand. if the wheel moves and the column below the UJ doesnt, its the UJ thats fubar (if you've had it welded it could of been done badly and cracked)

if thats okay next port of call if we're working from column through rack to track rods is to check the bushes on the rack mounting points. again very easy, simply get a torch and look down the back of the exhaust manifold in the engine bay, should see 2 mounts on the rack to the subframe with rubber bushes in them. get a glamorous assistant to turn the steering and look for the rack sliding excessively through these mounts. it will flex a bit, but its shouldnt slide right through them.

if this is okay its got to be inner or outer track rod ball joints. to check the outers put full lock on, get a torch in there and watch the outer track rod end ball joints where they meet the hub for play as once again the glamorous assistant wiggles the steering.

if its still not that then its the inner track rods on the rack itself, very unlikely though, normally it will be one of the above three.

to fix, replace the worn bits

Done

_PAUL_
29-09-2009, 11:44
Cheers coops will check that this week :)
Want to get the valver back on the road next month :D

_ol_
29-09-2009, 12:32
Ok so I've taken the cover off, undone the nut and still no movement - I'm missing the trick here methinks...

Ullevimay83
29-09-2009, 12:53
Sorry to hi-jack the thread but can I ask what size Torx is required to remove the steering wheel? I need to go and buy the correct size this weekend to replace the indicator stalk.

Coops
29-09-2009, 12:55
its a t50 iirc, but i'd need to check to be sure.

ol, no movement in what? you can;t get the wheel off you mean? if not as said make sure the nut is still on by a few threads (or torx bolt still in by a few thread) and lightly tap back of the wheel to loosen it, it will come off but may be a bit tight on the spline if its never been off before

_ol_
29-09-2009, 12:56
You don't need to take the wheel off to change the indicator stork.

Just look underneath the wheel and you'll see some (3?) screws - undo those and you're away.

The wheel is 20mm though I believe.

_ol_
29-09-2009, 13:00
So I took off the centre bit, and using a 20mm socket undid the nut in the middle of the wheel, but no matter how much I try to budge it, the the wheel won't move at all - Feels like it's screwed on somewhere else too tbh...

I must be missing something - can take pics if you're not sure what I mean.

16v_paddy
29-09-2009, 13:03
Brute force is required then , just keep that bolt there or you'll end up with a bust lip :wink:

Took my wheel off yesterday & used a slide hammer to get it off :twisted:

_ol_
29-09-2009, 14:31
Hmmmm... I'm clearly just weak...

Where were you hitting it? Is there a method to this I'm missing? Really stuck fast on there.

cliokiz
29-09-2009, 15:31
Give it a good wiggle

_ol_
29-09-2009, 16:04
Awesome, sorted mate, thanks for that... Feels much better without the wheel constantly pointing to the left - A little disconcerting...

Thanks all!