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View Full Version : waxoyl vs dinitrol? / me vs pro?



vkosho
07-07-2009, 20:13
Which is better for the sills?

How much work is it to remove the old stuff and prep the surfaces? Ive got no ramp and the kits are fairly pricey so should i bite the bullet and take it to a bodyshop?

What processes should be taken to ensure maximum rust prevention and how much work is involved?

Currently my sills are fairly good bar some minor surface rust and a small hole which im welding up. The old waxoyl preventer is starting to crack and peel away so i wanna try and save it before it gets serious.

Cheers.

MAXIBOY
07-07-2009, 20:23
dintrol...and really need a compressor and a gun with a feed hose..then better than a pro really

talkingfish
07-07-2009, 20:59
dinitrol all the way....

vkosho
07-07-2009, 21:01
anyone done it themselves?

MAXIBOY
07-07-2009, 21:08
yes mate

talkingfish
07-07-2009, 21:09
yup! you will deffo need some ramps as an absolute minimum....

vkosho
07-07-2009, 21:24
ive got some shitty wheel ramps but il go and get some quotes first and see what people are saying. I just hate takin my car to garages and having profit driven people working on it. I cant trust anyone with it and i know id do a better job if i could afford all the kit. :roll:

Dave Peach
08-07-2009, 00:15
This is how i guarantee rust wont come back on a sill.

1. Remove front wing and rub down any surface rust on sill. Treat with kurust and then paint. Make sure no metal is exposed. If you need it to look good get it sprayed.

2. Paint the lower sill join with waxoyl underseal (this is the lowest bit of the side of the car). All along the inner side the entire length. Paint all bolt hole surrounds. This seals the sill join. Paint the sill area under the front wing area.

3. Buy a 5 litre tin of waxoyl and tip 2.5 litre down one sill. 2.5 litre down the other sill and go for a drive on a twisty lane. You will have to remove the rear door card to do this. Splash loads up ontop of the arch too.

Ive done this on many cars over 15 years and the rust NEVER comes back. The waxoyl will drip through any holes in the sill and seal them. Expect lots of waxoyl to come out on the raod for the next few weeks untill it settles down. If youve done a good job with the underseal, not much of the waxoyl will drip out and it will splash around in the sill untill its coated everything and then set.

Obviously this assumes the sill hasnt rusted all the way through and still has good metal wuth just surface rust.

The trick to stopping rust on the rear arch is vaseline.

vkosho
08-07-2009, 03:05
some pretty far out tecniques you describe there dave. cheers :D

northy
08-07-2009, 08:29
dont bother waxing your sills mate - the wax cloggs drain holes and water carnt escape.

I would recomend you spray oil inside the sills. Oil can drip through any gaps and wont go hard over time and crack.

I use duck oil first as it is very thin - then a cheap engine oil that i spray through my waxoil gun.

MatrixGuy
08-07-2009, 13:48
I bought some Dinitrol but ended up selling it all because it was too much fuss. Garage that was doing it needed the car cleaned underneath first, had to be bone dry, then people were saying it would be too rigid, and better off with Waxoyl. :roll:

Dave Peach
08-07-2009, 13:51
dont bother waxing your sills mate - the wax cloggs drain holes and water carnt escape.

I would recomend you spray oil inside the sills. Oil can drip through any gaps and wont go hard over time and crack.

I use duck oil first as it is very thin - then a cheap engine oil that i spray through my waxoil gun.

Water shouldnt be getting in the sill to start with. If it is you have bigger problems than light surface rust.

northy
08-07-2009, 15:03
true - but water can enter from numerous places. I am not refering to leaky windows, rotten wheel arch adhesive or rust of any kind.

Ever checked behind the side rub strips.....4 holes nice big holes there Rob.

Dave Peach
08-07-2009, 15:15
I see your point, im not saying it wont get in, just that id prefere to find the reason and stop it.

Engine oil is actually a good idea, but id always want to pour in something a little thicker afterward.

Saves you taking it down the tip too.

MAXIBOY
08-07-2009, 23:07
used engine oil is carcinogenic though..so only new oil should be used

but dinitrol is better when applied properly..

Dave Peach
08-07-2009, 23:16
used engine oil is carcinogenic though..

.

Petrol is carcinogenic.
Diesel is carcinogenic.
Sunlight is carcinogenic.
Exhaust fumes are carcinogenic.

Am i drinking the oil or pouring it in the sills?

I suggest you drive only at night with an empty tank and no oil in the engine just to be safe.

MAXIBOY
08-07-2009, 23:22
Am i drinking the oil or pouring it in the sills?



i really really hoping your drinking it..go on..i'll even buy you some.. :D

stan
08-07-2009, 23:24
Am i drinking (http://mercedesrules.files.wordpress.com/2008/02/dog-drinking-beer.jpg) the oil or pouring it in the sills?



i really really hoping your drinking it..go on..i'll even buy you some.. :D

:lol:

Dave Peach
08-07-2009, 23:49
Am i drinking the oil or pouring it in the sills?



i really really hoping your drinking it..go on..i'll even buy you some.. :D

Listen to what maxiboy says he knows (http://ryanericsongcanlas.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/idiots.jpg) what hes talking about

Evogone
08-07-2009, 23:58
Am i drinking the oil or pouring it in the sills?



i really really hoping your drinking it..go on..i'll even buy you some.. :D

Listen to what maxiboy says he knows (http://ryanericsongcanlas.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/idiots.jpg) what hes talking about

Is that the class of 99 at your Uni, PhD students are a funny breed.....

vkosho
09-07-2009, 20:05
can you paint straight onto dinitrol with primer/paint etc?

MAXIBOY
09-07-2009, 21:21
depends on the type..

theres different types for different applications