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MattyH16valver
16-05-2008, 12:05
Hi, I've bought some new front brake hoses to go with my new calipers as one of the originals is starting to perish. Whats the proceedure for changing these....I've looked at where the top of the hose meets the brake union as it looks pretty rusty. Should I soak this area in wd40 to avoid shearing anything off?
Cheers
Matt

MicKPM
16-05-2008, 12:23
Wire brush everything up as best you can first then soak in WD40 (or similar approved penetrating oil) and walk away for a coffee before even thinking about touching them!

Go easy though as these unions are made of cheese and round just from looking at them with force :P If you can use a set of good clamping pliars to break the joint then you stand a better chance of reusing them as standard 10mm spanners like to slip.

Mick

richy
16-05-2008, 13:15
pretty much as above, but you can buy proper brake pipe spanners which most of the time work unless the joint is stuck solid which is when some grips come into play normally! dont rush at gettign them off, less likely to mess the union up on the solid pipe.

when you refit the new ones make sure you fit the caliper end first and route the pipe before finally fitting the other end into the bracket and joining it with the solid pipe, that way you shouldnt twist the pipe as the 'inner wing' fitment can go in any position.

MattyH16valver
16-05-2008, 13:36
Ok lads...thanks for ur advice....I shall use it wisely otherwise i'll be another one with messed up pipes! In the worse case senareo....can the union be fixed? Cheers

richy
16-05-2008, 13:42
you can replace the unions but if you wish to keep the original solid pipe then the end will need cutting off and reflaring after new union was fitted, which then leaves the pipe shorter then it should be, tends to be easyier to buy a roll of copper brake pipe and make a new pipe from master cyl to the flexi joint if you mess the pipe up!

MattyH16valver
16-05-2008, 14:01
you can replace the unions but if you wish to keep the original solid pipe then the end will need cutting off and reflaring after new union was fitted, which then leaves the pipe shorter then it should be, tends to be easyier to buy a roll of copper brake pipe and make a new pipe from master cyl to the flexi joint if you mess the pipe up!

Sounds fun! Think ill buy the proper brake pipe spanner then and use plenty of wd40! Cheers mate

MicKPM
16-05-2008, 14:33
Also, if you do fluff the steel pipe note that most cheap "Flaring" tools are only designed for use with copper pipe. If you try to flare a steel pipe it'll just bend the die.

Mick

BristolSam16v
16-05-2008, 16:30
Definately buy a brake pipe spanner don't even both attempting it without one.

I ended up shafting the pipe on the drivers side but that was fairly easy to replace, i also had to cut the union on the passenger side and re-flare the pipe, managed to do it with a normal flaring tool but as mick mentions its pretty hard on a steel pipe.

number1
16-05-2008, 17:46
Make sure you dont twist the copper pipe that goes off into the engine bay, if seized they twist with the nut, thats bad! im fitting my goodridge lines tommorow, with my redstuff pads :D

MattyH16valver
19-05-2008, 21:11
When fitting the new hoses how do u know how tight to do them up? Cheers

Lunner
19-05-2008, 21:19
Tight or they leak, will get to a point where they stop turning

MattyH16valver
19-05-2008, 21:59
Tight or they leak, will get to a point where they stop turning
Ok...cheers...i did'nt get a brake pipe spanner in the end...nowhere seemed to have the right size :roll:

Lunner
19-05-2008, 22:01
That was you that text me then lol

I've got a draper one, 10mm one end and 11mm the other hence why i couldn't remember

MattyH16valver
19-05-2008, 22:03
That was you that text me then lol

I've got a draper one, 10mm one end and 11mm the other hence why i couldn't remember

Yep...lol.....I went to about 5 shops and none of them had the right size....Halfrauds had run out too!

BristolSam16v
20-05-2008, 10:50
Seriously wouldn't even bother without a brake pipe spanner.

Lunner
20-05-2008, 11:40
Explain???

I used a normal one and rounded them oall off on the next car i brought the proper thing and ther were all fine, next car the fronts rounded off with the proper tool, but they were seized to ****, for the few quid it costs its defo worth having

BristolSam16v
20-05-2008, 19:20
Explain???

I used a normal one and rounded them oall off on the next car i brought the proper thing and ther were all fine, next car the fronts rounded off with the proper tool, but they were seized to f**k, for the few quid it costs its defo worth having

Was tht at my post?

Lunner
20-05-2008, 19:46
Yup, the brake pipe unions on teh clios are like chocolate, if you go that teh with a normal spanner they WILL end up rounding off

Rich
20-05-2008, 20:55
yes but he said he wouldn't WITHOUT a brake spanner! :imwithstupidup: :lol:

BristolSam16v
21-05-2008, 00:55
^^

rounded some of mine with the brake pipe spanner as well :(

Lunner
21-05-2008, 08:26
:oops:

Teaches me to skim read lol

MattyH16valver
27-05-2008, 10:37
Successfully mananaged to round off one of the union nuts on sat as I dreaded so I had to fit a new copper/nickel brake lines in yesterday. Cost me about £50 for the copper pipping and flaring tool :shock: Ah well...least I've got it to use again. Was a pain trying to get the right bends in the pipes, but its all in now, new line, pipes and calipers with no leaks! Have'nt got round to testing them yet, pedal feels good though. Cheers to Lunner for ur help! :D

BristolSam16v
27-05-2008, 17:01
Which side did you have to redo? how much did they charge for the pipe :S I got my flaring kit from machine mart for about £20 and the pipe was only a few quid!

MattyH16valver
28-05-2008, 12:54
Which side did you have to redo? how much did they charge for the pipe :S I got my flaring kit from machine mart for about £20 and the pipe was only a few quid!

The Front Passenger Side. I paid about £50 for the flaring tool and 25ft of copper nickle pipe from All Parts! :shock: Did'nt really have a choice though as know where else was open on sat afternoon cos of bank holiday etc. Just hoping the manifold heatshield goes on ok as the pipe sticks out a bit more than the original one....think it seemed ok yesterday when i tested it quickly.

BristolSam16v
28-05-2008, 20:24
Which side did you have to redo? how much did they charge for the pipe :S I got my flaring kit from machine mart for about £20 and the pipe was only a few quid!

The Front Passenger Side. I paid about £50 for the flaring tool and 25ft of copper nickle pipe from All Parts! :shock: Did'nt really have a choice though as know where else was open on sat afternoon cos of bank holiday etc. Just hoping the manifold heatshield goes on ok as the pipe sticks out a bit more than the original one....think it seemed ok yesterday when i tested it quickly.

Fairly easy to bend so surely you could jus bend it back a bit? Definately don't drive it without the heatshield, I melted a throttle cable doing that and it jammed my pedal down :shock:

MattyH16valver
29-05-2008, 12:09
Which side did you have to redo? how much did they charge for the pipe :S I got my flaring kit from machine mart for about £20 and the pipe was only a few quid!

The Front Passenger Side. I paid about £50 for the flaring tool and 25ft of copper nickle pipe from All Parts! :shock: Did'nt really have a choice though as know where else was open on sat afternoon cos of bank holiday etc. Just hoping the manifold heatshield goes on ok as the pipe sticks out a bit more than the original one....think it seemed ok yesterday when i tested it quickly.

Fairly easy to bend so surely you could jus bend it back a bit? Definately don't drive it without the heatshield, I melted a throttle cable doing that and it jammed my pedal down :shock:

Did you...blimey! :shock: Nah it's ok....the heatshield managed to go back in place ok which was good. Matt