View Full Version : CV Joint Limitations
Right am about to go for my 4th drivers side driveshaft tomorrow :roll:
my question is, why does it keep vibrating?
the story goes, i lowered the car after the engine rebuild and changed my driveshafts both sides at the same time (cv boots knackered, so figured better safe than sorry and go for re-furbs from renault) and there was a massive vibration through the car on left turns. i changed wheel bearing that side, no difference, so eventually it was pinned down to shaft
shaft was changed again, was fine i think for ages, but now having fitted my r888 and really pushing it round corners, the vibration is back again, this time its whilst pushing a lot harder, and tight corners only pretty much but its there and its bad when it happens.
now i talked to my dads mechanic this weekend and he thinks it may be because the car is too low, so when the suspension compresses aswell as hubs already being higher than diff, the shafts outer cv joint is at too much of an angle and vibrates. is this possible? how come it hasnt happened to anyone else? mines low but there are lower cars out there so what do you guys think?
also why only this side, i mean i realise that the engine and me are on that side so its got more weight to push down, but still, cornering the other way at any speed is fine, no matter how hard i push, its only left turns where it struggles
i'm really hoping its just another dodgy shaft, but any advice/experience on this would be much appreciated!
sorry for the ramble
cheers
Ben
i had the exact same problem mate, with my widetrack conversion, 19 16v shafts do not fit, not the passenger side nor the drivers.... they fit but the shafts were slightly too long, causing it to knock badly when cornering,
Driveshaft doesnt have enough free length i.e when you have the car jacked up and the front suspension is unloaded the driveshaft has more free length when the car is sat normally on the ground the cars suspension is more in line with the gearbox and hub to gearbox distance is shorter if you get what i mean, when driving the suspension gets loaded up more and the driveshaft has even less free length, there shouldnt be any play, in the shaft but if you undo the hub nut with the cars wheels on the ground and push inwards u should have a good amount of free play
Dave
Btw it'll most likely be the inner joint not having enough room inside the coupling when the suspension is loaded up, you sure you have the right shaft??
should be mate, its not wide tracked for a start, so its on original components.
i'll bear this in mind tho mate, thats some useful information, and if this new shaft doesnt cure it i'll check the shaft for play in situ
cheers
Ben
Would have thought that with the hub nut undone there should be about 15mm of free travel on the shaft, I was chasing this for ages when i did my widetrack conversion mate, im pretty positive this is your problem, be careful driving it when it makes the rumble, as theres no slack on your shaft your diff is taking a lot of abuse...
do u want to try some not sol old genuine shafts in ? :wink:
the shaft is new refurb from renault mate :wink:
Would have thought that with the hub nut undone there should be about 15mm of free travel on the shaft, I was chasing this for ages when i did my widetrack conversion mate, im pretty positive this is your problem, be careful driving it when it makes the rumble, as theres no slack on your shaft your diff is taking a lot of abuse...
so how did you solve the issue? can i space the shaft from the back inside the hub with a washer to shift it over or what? its not like its not the correct shaft, i only have one option for this car, a valver shaft!lol
i fitted williams shafts mate 8) not much help to you... could try shifting the engine over on the mounts, I elongated the balljoints on both sides...
i tried everything to get my 19 16v shafts to fit and they were just too long, could speak to a friendly engineering shop and get them to shorten your shaft...
one good way of telling if the shaft is too tight is to take the inner joint apart and see if there is any fouling on the coupling from the tripods
Hope this helps
Dave
free bump
still bloody doing it, new shaft, so its not the shaft itself, or maybe it is but its because the shaft geometry is out?
noticed today that looking top down through the engine bay the hubs are behind the output shafts of the gearbox, so the shafts are naturally swept backwards, is that right?
also if i undo the hub nut, should i then be able to move the shaft in and out of the cv joints/hub spline both ways?as in slack enough to extend and shorten the length of the shaft? and should this be possible with weight on the wheels, or only when jacked up?
cheers
Ben
you tried it without running the spacers mate?
no as my tyres rip up on the struts, i may do that tho, good thinkin
How big are the spacers?
Try swapping them from side to side and see if that alters it?
I had some 15mm hub centric spacers, eibach ones, so not like they were cheap shit and i got vibration at certain speeds, might be when that one spacer is loaded up it vibrates?
also if i undo the hub nut, should i then be able to move the shaft in and out of the cv joints/hub spline both ways?as in slack enough to extend and shorten the length of the shaft? and should this be possible with weight on the wheels, or only when jacked up?
So long as the splines aren't seized on the hub, then when you push the end of the shaft it should go inwards. When I do this on mine I can push the shaft in quite a bit, then when I let go it pops back a tiny bit.
plenty of play in the shafts mate, so thats not the issue checked other day
could it be gearbox diff? or would there be more symptoms, as in if that was on its way out wouldnt i get vibration both ways
also my clutch release bearing is knackered, that? :?
i would wide track it....problem solved.
I have done numerous trackdays and so has gaz in his banana - we have never had no problems and thats running on slicks.
You sure its not the wheel bearing going? Don't wheel spacers put extra strain on wheel bearings... specially if your running silly power :wink:
bearings new tho mate, i know it'll wear quick, but that quick, doubt it!
would widetrack it if i could afford coilovers for widetrack
Hey mate!
What have you tried so far then?
Doubt it's the CV joints like you say..
Is it a patterned vibration or a judder?
Any play in the wheel when jacked up?
Ball joints, how do they look?
Track Rods - how do they look any play?
How is your tracking? How far out have you wound out your trackrod on that side?
Are the wishbone and strut bolts tight?
Hey mate!
What have you tried so far then?
Doubt it's the CV joints like you say..
Is it a patterned vibration or a judder?
Any play in the wheel when jacked up?
Ball joints, how do they look?
Track Rods - how do they look any play?
How is your tracking? How far out have you wound out your trackrod on that side?
Are the wishbone and strut bolts tight?
patterned rotational vibration through the whole car mate
no play in wheels/bearings when jacked up
ball joints are new
no play in rod ends, not sure on how far out they are wound
was laser tracked couple of months back
all bolts are tight, checked them like 5 times
come over and check it out for us mate, i need help! :lol:
its the engine mate, take it out i have a nice std 1.8 16v you can use in swap! :wink:
as said with mine its lower and has widetrack and runs full slicks with no problems! although i dont run poo spacers lol
bearings new tho mate, i know it'll wear quick, but that quick, doubt it!
would widetrack it if i could afford coilovers for widetrack
Run you valver set up you've got at the mo, i'm using valver coilovers, gives wicked negative camber, does tend to chew the tyres up in a few thousand miles tho :(
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