View Full Version : errrm HELP
right im halfway through a project to drop an F7p into a mk1 rt
all was going well untill dropping the engine in today....
it seems that the gearbox is fouling the steering rack, im using a derv box, how do i get round this problem? different dogbone/cradle? different top gearbox mount?
any ideas?
:cry:
it should fit, u may need to take the bracket off the box which the dogbone mounts to, that will allow you more room to tilt the box/engine to the right angle to fit
well im using a derv box with the origional RT dogbone and top g/box mount..
would diff mounts sort it
or is it just a csae of wiggling it till it fits?
if the orginal mounts fit the box ok then it will def fit in, just needs playing about till it goes in, the dogbone bracket will need removing then fitting after it its catching the rack etc
right what seems to have happened is the diff on the gearbox is sat on the steering rack and the cradle/dogbone is a good 3inch short from reaching the gearbox
ive had it a few times when the engine/box has gone in at the wrong angle which meant it was sat partically on the rack, but it should go in! just needs playing with...
any pics would also help
ive had it a few times when the engine/box has gone in at the wrong angle which meant it was sat partically on the rack, but it should go in! just needs playing with...
any pics would also help
ok well ill have another crack at it tomorrow then if its still the same ill get some pics and post up
it seems though that its just the diff thats on the rack
how far is the gearbox top mount away from lining up aswell as the engine mount? as said if its sat in the correct place with correct mounts it should fit fine!
paudi294
18-04-2008, 17:46
u got take the bracket off to get it in with out a struggle
how far is the gearbox top mount away from lining up aswell as the engine mount? as said if its sat in the correct place with correct mounts it should fit fine!
the engine mount lined up ok
shall i just swap the dogbone and top gbox mount for a 16v ones?
will fitting a P/S rack solve this problem?
is it smaller or sat furter back on the cross member than a manual steering rack?
right got some pics albeit not very good ones.
so the engine is currently sat in the bay like this
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u312/teabagRT/19-04-08_1251.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u312/teabagRT/19-04-08_1252.jpg
and the diff casing (white line) is already hitting the steering rack so the engine cannot be straightened up in the bay.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u312/teabagRT/19-04-08_1250.jpg
any ideas how to sort this?
engine needs lifting back up a bit and then rolling back slightly whilst being lowered to fit it at the right angle as its currently wrong. diff sits slightly below the rack at the bottom so you need to get wiggling mate
where abouts in sheffield are you btw. cant currently lift heavy shit due to bust fingers though or i may have been able to be of more use
looking at them pics the engine is sat at the wrong angle, i know its to far forward at the box end but the inlet manifold is too low, it should sit almost next to the front panel, like you need to roll the engine slightly which should allow the box to sit under the rack
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/c20rfs/clio%2016v/trackcar014.jpg
like that if that makes any sense lol
ahh so it wants sort of "hooking" under the rack?
erm im from the *cough* manor *cough* but the car is in a garage near meadowhall
lol i work @ city school mate anyway so i know the area. i'm not far from meadowhall home wise. but tbh you shouldn't need my help if you've got this far as the old 'hook and tuck' comes into play and it should be done
so its just a case if tilting the lumb back a bit, lol we were contemplating taking the angle grinder to the diff casing lol or fitting a pas rack haha
lol no need for that mate. just tilt the engine back. i found it easiest to have one person lifting the engine round the inlet manifold whilst one lowers (watch your fingers as mani gets close to the slam panel)
would be tighter with a pas rack with the extra pipes tbh
but as rich said, should be a case of pull it up abit to clear and tilt/lower and it will go in!
btw with you running non pas i presume you already have the different bracketry or the clip cup idler pulley so the alternator belt works without running a pas pump?
no the lump still has the PAS pump, should i remove it or will it be ok not plummbed/plugged in?
you have a few options. either need to source a clio cup idler pulley to replace it.
buy the bracketry to replace it which someone knocked up (probably speaking to winston on here may be your best bet to get hold of this)
or lastly buy a power steering rack and column and convert to power steering.
if you leave it on the pump will be running dry and eventually sieze the pulley.
either way you need to sort it or the alternator wont charge i'm afraid
is the cup idler hard to get hold of?
they are scarce mate so yes. for ease i'd try and get hold of the fabricated bracketry as it should only set you bakc about £50 and that includes the shorter belt that you need. stick a wanted add up fella :)
take the weight of the engine on a hoist, maybe lift it an inch, grab the inlet, and lift so as to swing the engine on its mounts. it should drop into place nicely.
cheers fellas ill let you know how i get on
The engine usually sits at an angle in the bay, rather than the camcover being horizontal like that. As mentioned the inlet manifold is way too low at the front.
With it sitting at the correct angle, it would allow more space for the steering rack etc.
try maybe lowering the subframe at the rear which should allow the engine to move down further... you can then connect up the gearbox upper mount which should pull the engine into place and let it sit correctly - the raise the subframe back up
all sorted now guys, i jacked the sump up at the front to tip the engine then wiggled it forwards till the mounts lined up, theres a good inch+ gap between the diff casing and the rack now 8)
just needs wireing up now and a valver radiator (see wanted section)
cheers guys :D
if you use the valver loom its easy mate. just plug and play. you'll pick up a rad no probs either! oh and that alternator bracket seems to be an OE item for non PAS if you PM the fella from the other thread on here in this section ;)
u can just reroute the aux belt to miss the pas out and leave it in.
if you use the valver loom its easy mate. just plug and play. you'll pick up a rad no probs either! oh and that alternator bracket seems to be an OE item for non PAS if you PM the fella from the other thread on here in this section ;)
i thought it was plug n play, but where the 2 looms (engine and in car) connect theres a brown plug and a white plug.
the white plug on the valver loom is waaaay different to the white plug on the RT dash loom
u can just reroute the aux belt to miss the pas out and leave it in.
guess itll need a smaller belt?
if you use the valver loom its easy mate. just plug and play. you'll pick up a rad no probs either! oh and that alternator bracket seems to be an OE item for non PAS if you PM the fella from the other thread on here in this section ;)
i thought it was plug n play, but where the 2 looms (engine and in car) connect theres a brown plug and a white plug.
the white plug on the valver loom is waaaay different to the white plug on the RT dash loom
that'll prob be the dash functions like the oil dials and stuff. plug it in and try it. like dr pepper says whats the worst that could happen!
u can just reroute the aux belt to miss the pas out and leave it in.
guess itll need a smaller belt?
same belt from memory mate. just miss the pump out and remove the pully wheel wheel.
dont see how that will work mr northrop. have you seen it done before like? you'd have to at least route it the other side of the water pump to be anywhere near wouldn't you?
if you use the valver loom its easy mate. just plug and play. you'll pick up a rad no probs either! oh and that alternator bracket seems to be an OE item for non PAS if you PM the fella from the other thread on here in this section ;)
i thought it was plug n play, but where the 2 looms (engine and in car) connect theres a brown plug and a white plug.
the white plug on the valver loom is waaaay different to the white plug on the RT dash loom
that'll prob be the dash functions like the oil dials and stuff. plug it in and try it. like dr pepper says whats the worst that could happen!
lol yea i was thinking it was something to do with the aux clocks, well if i get stuck i can call on amit (AmDaMan on here) for his knowledge as he did a F7 into an RT
paudi294
22-04-2008, 20:08
ive done it and hade a changer the hole incar wiring loom + dash board wil i was in ther
robster84
22-04-2008, 20:53
i also just changed dash wiring when i done this conversion
ive got the PAS removed and the belt is much shorter
ive got the PAS removed and the belt is much shorter
well im sure an rsi alternator bracket and aux belt will sort it
dont see how that will work mr northrop. have you seen it done before like? you'd have to at least route it the other side of the water pump to be anywhere near wouldn't you?
gunna try routing it to the other side of the water pump and tensioner and slide this the other way to see if it tighteds up enough till i get the alternator bracket.
im certain its an rsi alt bracket, and a rsi aux belt for the non pas non ac model.
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