Coolant gauge going up and down when cruising?

[Laine_16v]

Does this indiciate an incorrectly bled cooling system, or a ****ed thermostat?

cheers.

[schakal]

Does this indiciate an incorrectly bled cooling system, or a f**ked thermostat?

cheers.

that indicates a gheyer on drivers seat from what i heard :D




what sort of temp changes in what sort of periods are we
talking here ??
make sure wires are not wiggleing about first of all !!

[Laine_16v]

hehe predictable response from you ;)

No loose wires at play here they are fine.

The temp will slowly build up and up, and then it will sort of release all at once, and repeat it over and over.

it will go from the 3rd major temp marker to the 4th major temp marker.

[stew]

mine did this too.

new red, stat, pipes, flush, cts, everything and it still did it.

was bled properly n everything

it was fine being thrashed, but at ghey crusing speeds did exactly that, went up to std then dropped, then did the same over about 2min period interval.

[Laine_16v]

Mines only started doing it since i changed the stat about 3 weeks ago.

So im guessing its an air lock, or the stat (which i found in the rear pocket of the car but still looked new) is ****ed.

Guna flush the colant system tommorow.

[schakal]

well yeah temp builds up slowly and once the thermostat opens
it is normal for it to drop as hot water in the head mixes with
cooler stuff in the rad .
the fan should cut in at 3rd marker anyway ,if its going
up to 4th marker you have some serious issues there:shock:


also knowing you are a determined pikey ,i assume you are
using the special edition brown coolant in the system at present ???

flush the system and stick some wynns cleaning stuff ,
run it for a week or so and see if it makes any difference .
in the meantime make sure the fan is working as it should

[Bayliss]

mine used to do that with out the thermostat, i changed the top sensor (the one for the gauge apparently) and all has been fine since, so i'd say top sensor which is about a tenner from renno, just make sure thye order right one bcos the guy wanted £50 for that one which is one below it i think.

[Laine_16v]

well yeah temp builds up slowly and once the thermostat opens
it is normal for it to drop as hot water in the head mixes with
cooler stuff in the rad .
the fan should cut in at 3rd marker anyway ,if its going
up to 4th marker you have some serious issues there:shock:


also knowing you are a determined pikey ,i assume you are
using the special edition brown coolant in the system at present ???

flush the system and stick some wynns cleaning stuff ,
run it for a week or so and see if it makes any difference .
in the meantime make sure the fan is working as it should

This has never happened on any of my previous valvers, so theres no reason for it to happen on this car.

The fan kicks in at the 4th major marker, go and look at the thick lines on teh gauge the 4th one is the fan kick in point. My fan currently isnt kicking in at the mo, but that is another problem that isnt relevant to this thread.

Yes the coolant is brown, but is was all flushed in december when stan put the engine in.

[stew]

nick @ hill power told me that this is common with a well working clio 16v coolant system. basically when its cold outisde, and ur not caining it, the termostat keeps opening and shutting hence the varying temp level. in summer this problem goes away, same when been driven with a bit of gusto. didnt make perfect sense to me as id expect the thermostat to be varying not just open/shut, but hey.

[Laine_16v]

Interesting, i am going to hillpower on saturday and will ask his advice.

[MatBrown]

Interesting, i am going to hillpower on saturday and will ask his advice.

If it makes it there! :wink:


Mat.

[BRUN]

i thought the 4th line was the danger zone, mine never sees the 3rd, goes half way along the dial usually

[schakal]

Interesting, i am going to hillpower on saturday and will ask his advice.

If it makes it there! :wink:


Mat.



:D

[Laine_16v]

Interesting, i am going to hillpower on saturday and will ask his advice.

If it makes it there! :wink:


Mat.

Meh, well if it doesnt you wont be getting your cat convertor :P

[Laine_16v]

i thought the 4th line was the danger zone, mine never sees the 3rd, goes half way along the dial usually

Ok well for the sake of this thread i was calling the 4th line the one where the fan normally cuts in.

[schakal]

i thought the 4th line was the danger zone, mine never sees the 3rd, goes half way along the dial usually

Ok well for the sake of this thread i was calling the 4th line the one where the fan normally cuts in.

3rd line is where the fan kicks in ](*,)

the very bottom line is 0 = nothing (fook all)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/1103/r19azul1lbcopyum4.jpg

[Allan]

my valver is doing exaxtly the same btw, well anoying :S see my running hot thread :/

i have flushed the system too

[Purple]

I wouldn't worry much about the water temperature as long as the needle stay away from the small thermometer icon on the water dial. IMHO, the water temperature reading is of secondary importance to the oil temperature. It's more important to check that the oil temperature stay about 90C to 100C when warmed.

[Coops]

normal for it to be cyclic at cruising speed, as said the stat opens and shuts as the coolant cools in the rad etc then mixes, causing the fluctuations, its started happening since you changed the stat as its likely the old stat was ****ed and was stuck shut or open, hence no cycling of the coolant temp :wink:

[Laine_16v]

Ok its been doing it ever since i started this post, and since then ive competely reflushed the coolant system and re-bled it. It made no difference....


The fix?? A new expansion tank cap :) Seal on the old one was knackered, and wasnt holding pressure, hence every time the coolant was getting hot it wasnt holding pressure.

Nothing to do with cyclic patterns e.t.c

[white16valver]

Cool, cheers for the update! :)

[schakal]

:lol: