View Full Version : Problems after rebuild
robi1000
19-01-2008, 18:10
I've recently rebuilt my engine. Today I went for a test drive and the car was idling at 2000RPM. Also when engine is not running and I turn ignition key, RPM needle is not where it should be (0 RPM) but it goes up to 500RPM. So car is in fact idling at 1500RPM. I guess it's something wrong with earths? I think they're all connected. I know that bad earths can cause high idling, but what causes my RPM dial to go to 500RPM when engine is shut off? And my dials are ok, because they were working fine before I took my engine out. Any ideas?
Tnx for your answers!
Robi
i would check all the engine earths as you have had them off...
As above, check the earths and also go over the engine and check all the connectors are all plugged in properly, and all little vacumn hoses connected up too
robi1000
19-01-2008, 22:51
I have another problem. The car is running on 3 cylinders. Engine is shaking and there's no usual low-donw punch. I checked cables, spark plugs (spark is present on all four cylinders). What about injectors? How can I check them? Are they the same as valver's?
don,t think they are mate....but can you just unplug the leads one at a time to find the missing cylinder then locate and swap the injector and see if the misfire moves also...
then next step is compression check.....
and why was the engine apart/rebuilt also
robi1000
19-01-2008, 23:23
Previous owner's mechanic was a heavy duty cu*t and fooked up the whole engine. They were messing with pistons and conrods and instead of doing it properly they did a very sloppy job. Also they destroyed crankshaft with sand paper. What kind of d**khead you have to be to polish crankshaft with sand-paper? They also used sand paper on pistons because they were too high when they put longer conrods in. And if they had to modify pistons they should at least take them out. And because they didn't they sanded a little bit of block away and head gasket did not seal well between cylinder 3 and 4. And so on and so on... Perhaps the best thing to do would be to buy another used engine. But here in Europe Williams engine is such a rarity that prices for used engine without rebuild are around 2000-2500€. So there was no point in buying another engine because you never know what you get. So I'd have to rebuild it anyway. And I did. And because I'm a perfectionist and a really passionate Willy enthusiast everything had to be spot on. And now when everything that was wrong before was fixed, now it's running on 3 cylinders. :cry:
difficult to say then mate....
could be a number of things...start with a compression check..should be around 180psi on each cylinder...
robi1000
20-01-2008, 10:29
I think compression's fine because when I brake with engine it's running really smooth but when I accelerate it starts shaking. I'm very busy with uni now so this will have to wait. But I'll check compression and injectors when I find some time.
robi1000
20-01-2008, 16:08
I did some research. Is it possible that my ignition coil is faulty? I've also read somewhere that my CPS sensor might be out. What do you think?
doubt it if its missing on the same cylinder
robi1000
20-01-2008, 16:30
I'd like to ask if my car will run on valver ECU(ph1)? I know it's not the same but I'd just like to try if my ECU is fckd.
yes will run on a valver ecu..
cliolord
20-01-2008, 20:17
Check injector plud wiring, check a good earth at speedo cable head (for idling fault 1500rpm does it happen when you first start it up or after you have drive the car?) Check dizzy cap contact points and for a spark at end of HT leads....Remove spark plugs and check condition of each cylinder bore...{Do a compression test}
dannyb1986
20-01-2008, 21:15
by cps i guess you mean crank posistion sensor which i think if it was that it would not start. so when you accelerate it misses? could be fuel starvation, is the pump ok?
robi1000
20-01-2008, 21:34
We tested it and I believe that pump is ok. Eh, Williams ownership... You're never bored. :lol:
robi1000
20-01-2008, 22:55
I'd also like to add that now that we'd sorted the pistons, compression might be different then before. Not a lot but different. What would nee adjusting? And how to do it? It's hard to say if it is higher or lower before we measure it, but I'm not sure if we'll get accurate results because piston rings are brand new and I don't know if they're sealing as they should just yet?
robi1000
20-01-2008, 23:00
BTW I checked injector part numbers for valver and williams and are the same part (77 00 855 369).
there are now as renault has about halved the numbers of parts it now makes but they were different once. there used to be 3/4 different pumps knows theres one..
robi1000
20-01-2008, 23:28
I knew about pumps but I didn't know about injectors for shure. Do they have the same flow?
think they must have.. think they just upgrade the lot..did with the oil pumps
Laine_16v
20-01-2008, 23:48
I think compression's fine because when I brake with engine it's running really smooth but when I accelerate it starts shaking. I'm very busy with uni now so this will have to wait. But I'll check compression and injectors when I find some time.
Even if th head gasket is compeltly fooked the engine will still feel perfect on overun, just not when you accelerate.
My engine was running on 2 cylinders (HGF), but still sounded completely normal on over run.
robi1000
21-01-2008, 00:09
Hmmm, my HG is brand new and my head and block (0.1mm) were skimmed so are perfectly smooth. I can't see why my HG would fail already? :?
robi1000
22-01-2008, 15:26
Today we did compression check and cylinder 2 is absolutly without compression. Zero. Others are around 14bar (196psi) due to the HC pistons. What could be wrong? Something with valves or what? :?
Today we did compression check and cylinder 2 is absolutly without compression. Zero. Others are around 14bar (196psi) due to the HC pistons. What could be wrong? Something with valves or what? :?
its not a dremmeled 1.8 block now is it ???
i would think the valves are sticking on that cylinder letting
the compression out . whether you could observe by just taking the
inlet manifold out or not is another question :roll:
robi1000
22-01-2008, 15:57
No it's genuine F7R block.
robi1000
22-01-2008, 16:02
If valve is sticking, how can I repair this? Once I unscrew rocker cover, should i press it down with a stick or what?
might be a sticking valve but zero compression is not good...
could be a follower fault or a cam shaft failure. get the rocker off and have a look.
robi1000
22-01-2008, 19:53
I removed rocker cover and cam shafts are ok so it must be follower or valve problem. Will have a look tomorrow.
I wonder how high my compression ratio is (compression test showed around 190psi pressure on other cylinders) ?
could be broken rings but i would assume valves.
thats without them run in....standards around 180/185..
robi1000
22-01-2008, 20:05
Well I made a mistake in conversion. Compression test showed around 14bar, that is aroun 200-2005 psi? So how much is it? 10.5:1 or more?
robi1000
22-01-2008, 20:06
Grrr, no edit button... And that's with new piston rings that didn't run in yet...
robi1000
22-01-2008, 20:35
How much power gain would that roughly be? I's also like to ask if anyone has any experiance with RTuner (http://www.fastchip.nl/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,19/category_id,7/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,26/)?
not a lot i don,t think mate.
ask stan on here and do a search as someone else has used r tuner
robi1000
01-02-2008, 18:14
I fixed my problem, it was leaky valve seat.
Now that engine is working (more or less), car developed some strange electrical problems. Like:
My central locking works if I press the button in the car. If I try to lock it with remote it doesn't work.
My indicators don't work. They did, then they popped the fuse. I replaced the fuse but they are not working. I can hear relay clicking but they are not flashing. It's the same if I try left or right with lever or if I try to turn on hazards. Always just relay click and no light. Fuses are all ok. :evil:
My reverse lights also don't work. I think there is connector on the gearbox for that?
Can someone tell me where all earths are?
Fixing indicators is a must because I can't drive around without them and I just got my car back so I'm really eager to drive!! :D
Tnx for your answers,
Robi
robi1000
02-02-2008, 13:53
Also I don't know where to put this hose?
http://www.moj-album.com/slike/10833367/YOmivrrA2BxN2a88.jpg
Robi
That hose goes onto the inlet manifold and is very important, that creates the vacumn in the brake servo
robi1000
04-02-2008, 21:39
Sorry mate, but I can't see where should I put the other end of the hose. One end obviously goes into inlet manifold, but where is the other end going? Hose is way too short to go all the way to brake cylinder.
Seem to remember it should go into a little metal rail that passes round the block, past the dizzy cap, to another bigger hose which goes into the bulkhead...I am sire there are some piccies if you go look about.
robi1000
05-02-2008, 11:43
Found it yesterday. It's a small pipe under PAS reservoir. Don't know what is for tho.
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