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robi1000
17-01-2008, 12:10
I've just rebuilt my engine. What kind of run-in should I do to prevent cylinder glazing? What oil should I use? Mineral? For how long should I run mineral oil? I was thinking about using mineral for 500-800km, then drain it and put in Elf Competition STI 10W-40 for about 2000-3000km and then go on full synthetic ELF EXCELLIUM NF.

So that you know I've replaced piston rings, bearings, polished and balanced crankshaft, new pumps, new belts, ported head, lots of other stuff... You get the picture. :D

number1
17-01-2008, 16:21
i was told by an engine tuner to run a good quality oil and dont change it straight away, as when the oils dirty it will be carrying little particles in it around and will act as a slight abrasive, but not enough to damage new shells journals etc, if you keep changing the oil every 500 miles for the first few times the oil wont be "cleaning" the engine and will glaze the bores up quickly

A dirty oil is/has done its job

PM Oilman im sure he will know what oil to put in

davem
17-01-2008, 19:04
a good quality 10w 40 mineral or semi synthetic for approx 1000 miles, keep the engine below 3000 rpm fro first 250 miles or so. Then take it easy building up the revs (4000 limit for 250 miles, then 5000 limit for 250 miles etc) bit by bit and not allowing to idle for long amounts of time or using the engine to brake with. After the 1000 miles change oil and filter and put in whatever oil you plan to continue using 10 40 is about right and a semi synthetic will do. Change again at 5000 miles and engine should be good for a long while to come.
This is the run in procedure i have always used and it has never gone wrong!

robi1000
17-01-2008, 22:21
Another question. A lot of diffrent people say a lot of different things about this. :? Should I leave it idle for about half an hour and then go for a drive, or should I go for a drive straight away?

number1
17-01-2008, 22:23
Drive it straight away but dont use full throttle for a good few miles and build the revs slowly using a bit more revs and a bit more as the miles roll on
Dont hold it under load for more than 5-10 seconds

DaveH
17-01-2008, 23:38
Another question. A lot of diffrent people say a lot of different things about this. :? Should I leave it idle for about half an hour and then go for a drive, or should I go for a drive straight away?

If it has had a full rebuild cylinder head as well and the top end has been dry (of oil) in the hydraulics etc i wouldnt drive it straight away, leave it to idle until it quietens down a fair bit as itl rattle a lot and you dont want to put any strain on the components before theyre fully lubricated/warmed up after rebuild. Then do as stated earlier when driving!

MAXIBOY
17-01-2008, 23:42
has it had cams or followers fitted mate

robi1000
17-01-2008, 23:58
Unfortunatlly not. :(

Yet. :twisted:

robi1000
18-01-2008, 00:02
I should also mention that at the moment the only part of exhaust system fitted to the car is exhaust manifold. Therefore my lambda isn't connected. So every now and then a loud BANG! coms out of it. Is this because without lambda, car is overfueling and excessive fuel is burning in the exhaust manifold?

MAXIBOY
18-01-2008, 00:03
then its ok to let it idle...when you drive it run it up to around 3000rpm and then use engine braking as this forces the ring on to the bores and helps the rings bed in quicker. i run mine in for a 500 miles then trash it..

number1
18-01-2008, 00:25
that actually work's too maxi! when i rebuilt my old kr1 (2stroke) first time around a mothered it for 500 miles didnt go above 50% rpm at all, when it blew up for the third or fouth time i had the bores replated with nickelsil (spelling) and new pistons and rings, when warmed up i used to give it a handful but for no more than 5 seconds under 100miles 10 seconds under 200 and so on, used the engine braking a lot more and it was a lot quicker and much more bottom end power that time around, only to get written off by a car just about 1000 miles after the rebuild :cry:

Dave

AndyFielder
18-01-2008, 10:50
im going to be putting solid lifters in, maxi how should i run these in, as you asked about fitting new lofters before telling him to let it idle.

Lunner
18-01-2008, 11:31
Stan told me to drive it under load for the first 50 mile, ie go out for a drive specifically to do this. In 4th/5th gear slow down till revs are about 1.5k and then accelerate with foot to the floor till about 3k, let off and let it overrun back down to 1.5k and repeat.

Seals the piston rings.....don't do what i did and do 120 after 400 mile and spin the bearings :oops:

number1
18-01-2008, 11:40
It's the first few miles that are vital, thing is everyone has there own perfect break in tricks!

Dave

MAXIBOY
18-01-2008, 12:23
im going to be putting solid lifters in, maxi how should i run these in, as you asked about fitting new lofters before telling him to let it idle.

with new lifters cams followers etc letting it idle can kill them...so once you have checked the oil light go out which i do be removing the plugs and cranking until it does refit the plugs and start the engine and hold it at 2500/3000rpm for about 20 minutes so the cam harden and then let it idle...

AndyFielder
18-01-2008, 12:31
what about solid lifters?

MAXIBOY
18-01-2008, 12:33
same mate will need to be run at 2500/3000rpm for twenty minutes with the new cams to get them up to temp without causing damaged to them

AndyFielder
18-01-2008, 12:39
ok, and then do the 50miles loading the engine, then 500miles not over 3k then change oil and it should be good to race.

number1
18-01-2008, 18:57
personally i wouldnt do 500miles under 3k, I'd gradually increase engine speed with miles, Revs isnt a killer of an engine, holding it under load for too long can destroy it, id drive it so it wasnt struggling, just do like maxi said hard acceleration burst in 4-5th and then let it roll back down to 1500 under engine braking, drive normally for a couple more minutes and then another hard burst of acceleration and deceleration

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm