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DaveH
14-01-2008, 22:38
Ive been neglecting the beakes on the valver for a while and it could do with a full overhaul so was just wondering what the general concensus would be as to which disc/pad setup to go for (preferably uprated and not overly expensive) I take it with uprated discs id have to by the bearings/races seperate from gsf or similar?

Also my brake load compensator is seized- wheres the best place to get these from?

Cheers people.

richy
14-01-2008, 22:41
personally i wouldnt go with anything more then std on the back, but make sure the calipers etc are working,

gsf do the compensators btw

MAXIBOY
14-01-2008, 22:44
standard rear brakes are totally fine...as there no weight and without a big spoiler no weight at speed.
compensator renault only i,m afraid though you could get a seal kit and rebuild yours as there 100 quid odd..
could fit a adjustable rear brake valve if you altered the brake lines though..

DaveH
14-01-2008, 22:55
£100+ :shock: Well standard saves me a fair bit but will these handle the occassional track day?

I had it on the brake tester at work and the rear efficiency is crap for both hand and foot brake, n/s is worse so i think i have a bit of a seizure as its binding as well. Also with the rear end lowered the valve is near its stop anyway so i dont know if itd make a difference, are they fairly easy to refurb then?

So what would a rough cost be for new rear brake setup- calipers, discs, bearings, pads and refurb of the compensator?

Maxiboy- what would be involved in converting it- just a case of running new pipes and fabricating a bracket, can it be in car controllable?

Cheers fellas

richy
14-01-2008, 23:01
standard will be fine on the back on track, as maxiboy said the fronts take most of the abuse

MAXIBOY
14-01-2008, 23:09
hi mate yes you could make it in car controllable if you want. didn,t know gsf did the compensator's rebuilt mine as i wasn,t paying that.

brand new rear brakes including calipers discs bearings cables should be able to do the lot for 150/200 at gsf. if they do compensator's fit one of those as they can be adjusted and once set you are not going to play with it at all.

stevie_b
14-01-2008, 23:12
what would be involved in converting it- just a case of running new pipes and fabricating a bracket, can it be in car controllable?


Yes, with one of these, or similar:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j299/2stis/clioproj6.jpg

That said I've now removed the original load compensator from mine to replace with the above, so if you need a good condition one (my car has only done 40-odd k miles since new) then PM me as I'm happy to flog it for a lot less than the cost of a new one!

MAXIBOY
14-01-2008, 23:12
my advice would be getting everything up to spec then upgrade the bits you need to. lots of standard parts are very good once 100%

rear brakes are fine though. i,m running brand new standard brakes and still need to adjust the compensator to stop them locking up even with larger tyres..

stevie_b
14-01-2008, 23:14
rear brakes are fine though. i,m running brand new standard brakes and still need to adjust the compensator to stop them locking up even with larger tyres..

What he said. I've had to go with the in car adjuster to give them less bite, although there is a lot of weight gone from the rear of my car :lol:

DaveH
14-01-2008, 23:23
I think that sounds good- like the sounds of all new brake setup as i know itl be the best it can be, then i'll be able to see the progress upgraded parts make.

Maxiboy- sorry bit confused mate do you run a rebuilt compensator or a bias valve as locking up sounds extreme as mine wont even stop the rollers! If so was it difficult to do? Hoping to do at work between bout half 8 and 2 ish one saturday im not working as i need the car pretty much every day.

DaveH
14-01-2008, 23:25
Also stevie_b- which line runs to and from the controller? Could be interested in this setup eventually.

geesus
15-01-2008, 00:08
Also stevie_b- which line runs to and from the controller? Could be interested in this setup eventually.

very basically.... you connect the 2 pipes running to the rear calipers into one using a T piece, then this pipe goes into the bias valve pictured, one pipe comes out of the valve, which is then split with another T piece into 2 pipes, which then run to the rear calipers :D you obviously need to position the bias valve somewhere close to hand so it can be adjusted whilst driving ideally

im in the process of doing this when my bias valve arrives (ordered it today 8) )

MAXIBOY
15-01-2008, 00:18
I think that sounds good- like the sounds of all new brake setup as i know itl be the best it can be, then i'll be able to see the progress upgraded parts make.

Maxiboy- sorry bit confused mate do you run a rebuilt compensator or a bias valve as locking up sounds extreme as mine wont even stop the rollers! If so was it difficult to do? Hoping to do at work between bout half 8 and 2 ish one saturday im not working as i need the car pretty much every day.

i run a rebuilt compensator valve as original..this can still be adjusted though as when i left it open the rear would lock. i just closed it a little and now everything is fine..

DaveH
15-01-2008, 20:37
Also stevie_b- which line runs to and from the controller? Could be interested in this setup eventually.

very basically.... you connect the 2 pipes running to the rear calipers into one using a T piece, then this pipe goes into the bias valve pictured, one pipe comes out of the valve, which is then split with another T piece into 2 pipes, which then run to the rear calipers :D you obviously need to position the bias valve somewhere close to hand so it can be adjusted whilst driving ideally

im in the process of doing this when my bias valve arrives (ordered it today 8) )

Ah right it makes sense now- so the adjuster and bias valve are one and the same thing, how much do they cost roughly on their own (without pipes and t pieces etc)?

Maxiboy- cheers think im going to go down the same route as you for the minute.

Lunner
15-01-2008, 20:40
If you run an after market bias valve you need to modify the brake lines as they onyl have one inlet and outlet as opposed to two on the std renault item, easiest is to just adjust the renault item.

Rebuild the rear calipers, overhaul kits cost about £40 each iirc, most likley the sliders are seized.

I'm going for std discs and fast road pads i think

stevie_b
15-01-2008, 21:10
Ah right it makes sense now- so the adjuster and bias valve are one and the same thing, how much do they cost roughly on their own (without pipes and t pieces etc)?


Depends. You can get new bias adjusters for around £40, up to £100+ for top notch ones like AP or Tilton. They come in lever types, which are easier to see the setting on track, that go between one of about eight settings, or ones like I have with a screw adjuster that have more control but you cannot easily tell by looking what bias you have set it to.

If you don't need to adjust in car then you can stick with the standard Renault item and adjust to get the best overall balance by winding the arm in and out against the spring, so that it reacts as if there is more or less weight on the rear axle and so gives the rear calipers more or less braking force, as required.

richy
15-01-2008, 22:47
If you run an after market bias valve you need to modify the brake lines as they onyl have one inlet and outlet as opposed to two on the std renault item, easiest is to just adjust the renault item.

Rebuild the rear calipers, overhaul kits cost about £40 each iirc, most likley the sliders are seized.

I'm going for std discs and fast road pads i think

you can buy twin line bias valves, AP racing do them but they are not cheap!

but you could fit 2 lever style in order to keep the std circuit layout(without std compensator) and have them set at the same positions to make sure you get equal pressure to the rear brakes