View Full Version : Camber bolts.. where from / worth getting?
Looking at getting some of these as i'm sick of changing the tyres becayse the insides have worn excessivelt (215 profile)
Question is,
do they work?
are they hard to set up?
any other suppliers apart from ktec as £40 for some bolts is a rip off imo.
thanks,
Andyvalver
28-10-2006, 11:20
Yeah, my tyres keep wearing on the insides :x I got the guy who tracked my wheels to toe them out by 2 on the scale so it dont do it now lol. I just gotta keep my eye on them to see if it wears the outsides now. So far so good though as it looks even and it actually handles better, sharper 8)
Amirclio
28-10-2006, 11:25
Yeah they do work! Ive just had to order 2 new tyres, as before i put the camber correctors in it caused some serious damage! £40 from K-tec i got raped with mine, £29 each!!!! :x !
They are well worth it though!
only reason you want camber bolts is for putting more -ve camber on! hehe :twisted:
I'm gonna have to order 2 new front tyres cus of this so I think i'll be getting some soon!
MatBrown
28-10-2006, 14:32
I have some i bought but never used.
Mat.
elongate the bolt holes on the struts, its free
lunner, can you elaborate mate? With an illustration if you're bored! :D
Matt - you selling em?
MatBrown
28-10-2006, 17:03
Yeah, everything is for sale! :P
Mat.
cool, how do these work then? Do you need 4 or just 2?
like that
http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1373
ahh right I see how it works now, the camber bolts are just thinner then. I bet that's a pain for someone that has to adjust that!
Does the bolt go in the top or bottom hole? As on that pic both sets are elongated! Plus everytime you change the strut you'd need it all doing again wouldn't you?
I'm gonna use a couple of gripper washers, and then you can mark the position, bu giving it all a coat of spray paint, so you can set it back to the orignal settings, its quite possile i'll ahve a couple of settings that will be used, ie for track and road use
I'm gonna use a couple of gripper washers, and then you can mark the position, bu giving it all a coat of spray paint, so you can set it back to the orignal settings, its quite possile i'll ahve a couple of settings that will be used, ie for track and road use
thats something i was thinking of doing, having 2 markings so can switch between std road and track settings, just be a case of loosening them off and twist/slide etc etc
yeah, something im gonna do soon!
need a touch more -ve camber for on track.
8)
how much would it cost for someone to adjust the camber? Someone was saying £150? That can't be right can it?
MattyH16valver
01-11-2006, 20:09
how much would it cost for someone to adjust the camber? Someone was saying £150? That can't be right can it?
Cost me £140 to get mine laser alligned! :shock: Then a couple of weeks later one of the bolts came lose as they did not do it up properly! :roll: Not paying that much to get it done again as they would not take the blame. When I fitted my coilovers I used a grinder to make the bolts thinner so I could move the struts tro get the correct camber. I have a Inclinometer to measure my camber now.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c226/MattyH16v/DSCF0611.jpg
good idea, is it hard to adjust yourself?
which bolt did you adjust on the strut? The top or bottom? So you made the bolts thinner by just grinding em down? That's cool dude :D
also what point did you measure the angle on using the Inclinometer?
valver_pete
02-11-2006, 00:00
Ive got these on mine, definately worth getting if you cant afford a decent set of coilovers with the slots as per those pics. Mine was real simple to do, swaped the top bolts and i just set the bolts out as far as they would go on their cams. Theyre still toed in a bit but no where near as bad as they were and ive had no un-even wear as yet.
MattyH16valver
02-11-2006, 00:28
good idea, is it hard to adjust yourself?
which bolt did you adjust on the strut? The top or bottom? So you made the bolts thinner by just grinding em down? That's cool dude :D
I made both the top and bottom bolts thinner by grinding down the parts on them that do not have thread. I'd recommend using a washer on each side too to avoid the bolts slipping. To measure the angle on the Inclinometer, I put and piece of thin wood across the rim and place the inclinometer on the wood. Then you can measure how much camber you have from 90 degrees, eg 92 degrees to the left woulf be -2 degrees of camber. Not 100% accurate but good enough for me. 8) Hope that helps. Matt
MattyH16valver
02-11-2006, 00:34
good idea, is it hard to adjust yourself?
which bolt did you adjust on the strut? The top or bottom? So you made the bolts thinner by just grinding em down? That's cool dude :D
I made both the top and bottom bolts thinner by grinding down the parts on them that do not have thread. I'd recommend using a washer on each side too to avoid the bolts slipping. To measure the angle on the Inclinometer, I put and piece of thin wood across the rim and place the inclinometer on the wood. Then you can measure how much camber you have from 90 degrees, eg 92 degrees to the left woulf be -2 degrees of camber. Not 100% accurate but good enough for me. 8) Make sure u are on level ground and don't jack the car up, tyres must be on the ground. Hope that helps. Matt
I never needed mine ...it was silly low and the tyres were always ok ware wise
Must be a valver thing :?
I made both the top and bottom bolts thinner by grinding down the parts on them that do not have thread. I'd recommend using a washer on each side too to avoid the bolts slipping. To measure the angle on the Inclinometer, I put and piece of thin wood across the rim and place the inclinometer on the wood. Then you can measure how much camber you have from 90 degrees, eg 92 degrees to the left woulf be -2 degrees of camber. Not 100% accurate but good enough for me. 8) Hope that helps. Matt
Cool, Where about's on the rim did you place the wood? Was it on the inside and did you have to check to see it it was level etc? Do you only need to loosen 1 bolt on the strut, if so how did you go about getting it to the right position (i presume you push the hub?)
cheers.
MattyH16valver
02-11-2006, 11:32
Cool, Where about's on the rim did you place the wood? Was it on the inside and did you have to check to see it it was level etc? Do you only need to loosen 1 bolt on the strut, if so how did you go about getting it to the right position (i presume you push the hub?)
cheers.
Both bolts are loose when u put them in so I normally move the hub and tighten both bolts up until they are nipped up. Then I look at the the amount of gap that I have in the bottom hole of the strut and make sure that this is the same each side. Torque the bolts up and put the wheels back on. Lower car to the ground. I place the piece of wood across the polished lip on my willy wheels as this is cut to length. Then put the Inclinometer across the wood and look at the angle. If this is not the same both sides(ie -1 negative) then you have to adjust each side accordingly and go through the hole process. Hope that makes sense! :shock:
You can make one of these using angle marks on a piece of timber, put it against the rim and use a plumb line, but you need to be on a totally level surface for both these to work
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