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donsrno1
16-04-2006, 00:20
If it's only possible to select gears 1,2 and 4 is the only possible explanation that the gearbox is knackared?

Also, when replacing the gearbox on a valver it seems that the best way is to drop the sub frame and remove the gearbox out the side. When doing this is it easy enough to just support the engine on a jack and then use another jack to support the box as you remove it? or is a hoist much better? I would imagine either way would be fine, but just wanted to check with those who will have done the job.

Would you say it's quite a difficult job to replace the box, or is it fairly straightforward as long as you take your time to it?

Thanks.

Anders
16-04-2006, 07:34
Whenever I have removed my gearbox I have just whipped the whole lot out.

Then seperate on a suitable surface or stand.

Never even tried doing it that way...DOH!!

Gearbox off/on is a peice of cake which ever way you try it.

Twincam
16-04-2006, 10:06
Yea you can use a jack and a block to support your engine while your doing it and put the car body on axle stands

The best thing to use if youv got one is an engine brace which goes across between the wings and attaches to the engine hoist point

Theres no need to support the gearbox, drop the oil out of it to make it lighter and lift it out by hand

If your carefull you can drop the subframe down low enough to get the box out without disconnecting any of the power steering pipes and without taking the pich bolt out of the rack joint

Not a bad job but can be a pain, biggest problem can be subframe bolts

donsrno1
16-04-2006, 10:43
Thanks folks. I'm guessing theres no other possible explanation of 3rd and 5th being the only gears which can't be selected?

I just wanted to check about doing it without a hoist as I don't have acess to one without hiring one out - and that means more £££.

When removing the box I know you will obviously have to remove the driveshaft from the box - but can it then just be moved out of the way or does it need to be totally removed from the car? would it be easier just to remove the passenger strut and hub to give better access anyway?

I've not looked at the job in much detail, but what other fluids (other than g/box oil) would need to be drained when doing the job?

How much, roughly, does a gearbox weigh without any oil in it.

Thanks.

Anders
16-04-2006, 12:07
The driver side driveshaft is on a stub axle and only secured by a 5mm roll pin, so tap this out and thats it.

The passenger side is just 3 bolts holding the cover plate. Personally I would remove only the passenger side one completely. Drain your gearbox oil before though, other wise it will all pi$$ out when taking the driveshaft off. Probably best removing as much as you can from around the immediate area.

Don't think you will need to drain any other fluid. Unless you decide its easier to remove coolant pipes.. But be careful of the PAS pipe that goes around close to the gearbox..don't split this as its expensive.

Gearbox is flippin heavy, one bod can lift it but its a weighty thing. I would guess at 30-35Kgs.

clowo16v
16-04-2006, 12:34
Have you checked the linkage hasn't come loose?

Even with the selector forks snapped on mine it would still managed to go into all the gears.

Matt

donsrno1
16-04-2006, 13:38
Have you checked the linkage hasn't come loose?

Even with the selector forks snapped on mine it would still managed to go into all the gears.

Matt

Could that possibly explain the only gears you can't get being 3rd and 5th. It's (yet another) clio I'm thinking of buying but in the advert it just says the gearbox is needing replaced, but the car can be driven as 1st,2nd and 4th are all OK. Is there anything which could specifically cause just 3rd and 5th not to work.

I'm waiting to hear back from him with some more details and hopefully I'll be able to go and see it some time this week.

clowo16v
16-04-2006, 13:47
I would check that the linkage is aligned properly first. Is it just crunching when you try and put it in 3rd of 5th or not going in at all? Have you tried double de clutching incase the syncros are knackered?

Matt

Andyvalver
16-04-2006, 13:52
Personally i think, engine out is best. I wouldnt fancy undoing the subframe bolts after 10 years

donsrno1
16-04-2006, 14:16
I would check that the linkage is aligned properly first. Is it just crunching when you try and put it in 3rd of 5th or not going in at all? Have you tried double de clutching incase the syncros are knackered?

Matt

As I say mate I've not had a chance to check all that yet. Are the only possibilities in that case that either the linkage is misaligned, the synchros on 3rd and 5th have gone or the gearbox is jus shagged?

I've been offered a box fairly cheaply anyway so that doesn't bother me too much if the whole thing needs replacing. How can you check that the linkage is aligned properly?

MAXIBOY
16-04-2006, 17:36
think you need a special tool from renault

1fast6
17-04-2006, 20:41
I've just spent the last day (started 7pm-2am sunday and 12-6pm today) replacing the clutch in mine working by myself.

Few points:

1) Make sure you have all the right tools before you start.
2) Dropping the subframe is necessary. It is not difficult and they usually drop without moaning too much.
3) I drained the coolant. I suggest you do the same as its far easier to work the gearbox in the bay with all the pipes removed.
4) The o/s shaft is easy to remove as already stated, when removing the n/s shaft, making sure you are carefull when it withdraws. You need to remove both the strut bolts and pull it out. Pull the hub towards you and move the shaft so it sits on top of the rack.
5) When withdrawing the box it helps to have a mate with you to support some of the weight. Jacks are not useful while doing this because you will just pull it off the jack. It can take some wiggling too. Make sure you don't have the weight of the box on the input shaft once all the bolts are removed.
6) On the n/s hub, you need to undo the rod end nut so the hub can be swiveled enough when messing with the shaft. These can be troublesome if the rod end is nackered. A good way to do it (the way i do) is to clean up the thread with a wire brush first and grease it. Then use a 12v impact gun on it while having a jack lift the rod end up so there is pressure on the joint. Once the bolt in the rod end spins even with jack pressure under it you will need to saw/nut crack the nut off.
7) The haynes book of lies advises you to release the gear linkage by removing the rubber boot and undoing the bolt under the boot. I would advise against this as the boot is a cu*t to get off if you don't want to damage it and you will need new grease. Just undo the clamp and have an assistant help you with setting up the linkage again.
8) Take your time, and a garage helps :D

donsrno1
18-04-2006, 15:03
5) When withdrawing the box it helps to have a mate with you to support some of the weight. Jacks are not useful while doing this because you will just pull it off the jack. It can take some wiggling too. Make sure you don't have the weight of the box on the input shaft once all the bolts are removed.


Thats the bit that I'm not sure of how best to support the weight of the box. I had hoped you could use a trolley jack but i seems as though that would be too awkward. Anyone got any decent suggestions based on how they did it?

Anders
18-04-2006, 16:52
If its low enough then you could buy a mechanics trolly and lower it onto that.

Wrap a strap around the box, and get a friend to take the weight from above, gently lower it down onto the trolley.

clowo16v
18-04-2006, 17:17
I'd take the engine out mate its a lot quicker. Much easier to line up the clutch splines and input shaft aswell

Matt

donsrno1
18-04-2006, 23:32
I'd take the engine out mate its a lot quicker. Much easier to line up the clutch splines and input shaft aswell

Matt

Not really an option as I don't have a hoist. I suppose I could hire one but I am happy enough to try it without removing the engine as I know it can be done. The only problem I have is how best to support the box.

Is there some sort of special attachment renault use on a jack when doing it that screws into the bottom of the box? If so could you make up some sort of wooden tmplate for it with a hole in the middle where the jack could go so that if you screw the template in the jack won't slip out of place and that way would support it?

MAXIBOY
19-04-2006, 00:36
its not that heavy though. one person can easily lift it out

donsrno1
19-04-2006, 00:40
its not that heavy though. one person can easily lift it out

ahh, bugger it. I'll be getting a new box anyway if I get the car so i can see how heavy that is when I collect it and judge if I can just do it all by hand - if not then I'll start asking again at the time.

MAXIBOY
19-04-2006, 00:42
yes mate pretty easy only the auto boxes are usually to heavy to lift.

2 live
19-04-2006, 01:47
best way iv found is to get the box 1/2 way in from underneath, but not yet on the splines......then hang over the side of the wing and lift it in by hand.

if helps needed get a mate to sit under the wheelarch n try take a bit of weight